Caboobaroo

First off, none of the transmissions listed will fit. 2010 and newer Legacy/Outback 6mt used shifter cables instead of linkages. Have replaced a few sets now. They also have the engine mounts on the sides of the transmission bellhousing, instead of under the engine. 2012 and newer run the FA/FB engine which I believe also runs a different bellhousing but I have yet to really dive into those yet. Your best option would be a JDM NONDCCD 6mt from the same era as your car. They should be the proper stub shaft type for your axles to work. You will also need the clutch hydraulics, clutch kit and flywheel, shifterm and linkages, driveline and probably a rear diff.

I've adjusted the striker before with good results. You also need to watch how the window hits. If it has too much play, it can contact the trim once the striker is moved in, causing it to hang up. If the window regulator allows the window to flop in or out excessively, it also can cause the window to hang up in the seal. Best way to adjust the striker is by using an impact driver to get the bolts loose. I will barely loosen them up, tap the striker in about as far as the door sticks out, then tighten them back up with the impact driver.

The steering wheel is a direct fit. As for the HVAC, no its a lot more complicated. The L.L. Bean has an electronically controlled system whereas your standard sedan is all mechanical. In order to make it work, the entire heater box assembly has to be swapped over, a wiring harness made and run, plus the head unit. It also runs a more complex AC compressor which cannot be adapted easily.

Might as well do them all while you're there. They all get hard and brittle as two of the 4 are standard black rubber. The other two seals are the orange ones, one between the cooler and the bottom adapter and between the block and upper adapter.

The turbo Baja runs a 2 piece oil cooler. There are 4 orings inside that have to be replaced. You will need a 22mm deep socket, 24mm deep socket and a 10mm standard depth socket.

Not something I see happen with this era. I have seen them drop an exhaust valve guide which then holds one exhaust valve open, but never a "carbon build up". These are also not known for injector issues either. If you had a tracer on the porcelain of the plug (the side where the wire attaches), you need to start with a new set of plugs and wires. Also inspect the coil pack terminals for ANY corrosion build up and replace with an OEM coil pack if it's bad enough. I will only use NGK plugs and wires on this model. I've had issues even with OEM Subaru wires in the past but only for this specific era.

Thanks Paul. I'm a bit surprised with the amount of miles, how decent the interior and body still are. Once I get the crap cleaned out of it, I can inspect the body a bit more for any repainted areas but it all appears to be original. It does need quite a bit of mechanical love. 3 tires are shot, the 4th will make its way onto the 78. Both front axles are clicking bad. Both ball joints have play, along with the strut rod bushings. Alternator is dead and it's missing the AC belt. The engine needs a reseal and the transmission is leaking gear oil out of the stub shaft seals. I have a key for my 90 LS stuck in the ignition as the previous owner lost the key so I also can't open the trunk yet. Obviously it's missing a door handle and some window trim around the back window, which is all black instead of chrome. Exhaust is cracked almost clean through in the midpipe. It's going to take quite a bit of time to get it all cleaned up and sorted out but it's almost exactly the same as my wife's first car, a 1984 GL-10 4wd sedan in gray....

My wife and I recently added another car to our growing collection a couple weekends ago. I found this car in October 2016 on Craigslist and on our way to purchase it, was sold out from under us. Fast forward to January 2017. It pops back up on Craigslist, owned by someone else. So we went to look at it, had to remove a wheel lock without a key to replace a shredded tire. Then, only with battery power, I drove it 25 miles back to the shop. She needs some work but for the price and shape of the body and interior, we couldn't complain. We have yet to name it though.... Here it is, our 1984 GL-10 sedan, EA81, 2WD 3AT, 165k miles. A/C, power steering, power windows, power mirrors, cruise control, inop digidash, 4 spoke alloys, uncracked dash, all glass is good. Once I get a couple other projects finished up, it's next to be brought back up to par.

I just had this same car with a very similar issue towed in last week. Car wouldn't turn over, turned out to be hydrolocked with fuel. Able to get the fuel out of the cylinders, we were then able to get it to start. Had similar electrical issues as yours. Turns out, the aftermarket chip security system that could be installed had fried and causing a back feeding issue through the ignition. After removing that and an oil change, the car ran like new. The chip is usually mounted to the bottom edge of the under dash panel below the steering wheel.

If you really want to make it look factory, a set of 2000-09 Legacy/Outback stainless steel hoses fit too. They also run two hoses for the rear brakes with a hard line between them.

With an engine flush product, you warm the engine up, drop the bottle of flush into the engine oil, run only at idle for 30 minutes and proceed to do an oil change. Once the oil is drained, substitute one quart of MMO for one quart of oil. I do this constantly on Subarus all day. If done properly,you shouldn't have any issues.

Do you hear a spark knock while it's running rough? When it does act up, try spraying the plug wires with a soapy water solution. This will help show if there is a crack in the wire or coil pack. If it's truly a lifter issue, try adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to the engine during the next oil change. It may also be a good idea to run an engine flush through the engine before you change the oil.

Hold on. Was it running one day and the next it wasnt? It doesn't have an igniter anymore on that model, FYI. Have you checked fuel pressure to verify the pump hasn't died? It's fairly common for that to happen. I probably replace 15 during the summer, specifically on the 90-99 Legacys.

Throw those parts away. Get yourself Koyo/NTN bearings and tensioners, use a Mitsuboshi belt. I have seen a Dayco belt fail after 15k miles on a 2010 Forester. It's a shame telling customers that they need a full valve job due to a crap belt coming apart.

P0420 is generic on these. You need to be able to read the short term fuel trims on both sides. Personally, I'd start with a set of new NGK plugs and a full tank of premium gas from a top tier station (Shell, Chevron, 76). If it comes back after that, then next step is to replace the front oxygen sensor that shows negative short term fuel trims. Personally, I would replace both front oxygen sensors while you're doing the plugs.

Throw a set of Delta cams in it.

What brand of parts did you use? I've seen GMB brand parts cause the timing belt to walk out and hit the cover before.

Also, the bolt hole is normal on this model. Nothing appears to be missing.

What was the list of codes they pulled from the engine computer. If there is one in there for a P0519 for the idle air controller, it probably needs a new neutral safety switch on the side of the transmission. This switch tells the computer when it's in neutral so it activates the idle circuit. If it sees neutral while driving, it'll cause stalling issues because it doesn't know when to kick in the idle circuit.

With the mileage, I wouldn't be surprised if it is leaking. Seen 4 or 5 in the last couple yeara. One would only leak when cold but I verified that it was coming from the weep hole on the water pump.

This is not correct at all. The clutch switch down on the pedal is for starting. With that being said, the neutral switch needs to be replaced. The internal button portion of the switch is plastic and they wear out over time from riding on the steel shifter rail. Once worn, it can tell the ECU that the vehicle is in neutral, while you're doing 60mph at 2k rpm. This then confuses the ECU and throws the P1507 or P0507 Idle Air Control Fail-Safe depending on era of car. You can buy them aftermarket from any parts house but make sure they sell you the neutral switch and not the reverse switch. It's located in the side of the transmission closest to the driveline.

Keep it 5 lug. Options for brake and suspension upgrades and wheels are readily available.

The EJ22T is a phase 1 engine. Has the thrust bearing located in the #3 main vs. the phase 2 which has it located in #5. In order to run the EJ22T block, it needs to be adapted for the #5 thrust and whatever phase 2 crank you're going to run also needs to be adapted for the #3 thrust. Running one or the other gives the crank too much end play. With an overbore on the EJ22T and stoker kit, it yields a 2.4 liter. Check out Wiseco for their special pistons to go that route.

I rarely see the injectors fail on this era of Outback so I doubt it's that. Like it was said, check the coil pack and if it needs replacement, use only an OEM Subaru coil pack. Aftermarket units have a high failure rate. If it comes back with the same misfire, I would pull the valve cover and check the valve clearances.