Caboobaroo

I've seen a 5.0 - 12 in a Land Rover recently. Old roommates old shop owner had it in and running but had miles left to go before it was "done":horse:

How are the condition of the struts? If they are original and the car has over 150k, I would replace them. With worn struts, the car pitches forward under braking making the front brakes work harder to stop the vehicle and with faster braking, can actually warp the rotors easier. For a stock replacement, use KYB GR2/Excel G struts. These are the closest to OEM for your car as KYB made the originals.

There could also be corrosion on the terminals of the coil pack that the plug wires snap onto. Either a new coil pack or use some Scotch brite and clean then back to a nice brass color.

Yep! Anyways, has the coil pack been replaced before? Some aftermarket coil packs can have a fitment issue with the electrical plug that comes from the back of the manifold on the passenger side. I had one where I replaced the coil pack with an aftermarket one and it had the same issues. Ended up wiggling the plug after it had warmed up and it started to misfire on me. Also, have the plugs and wires been checked? Look for traces where an arc might be getting past the boot down on the spark plug. Usually the trace will be noticeable on the porcelain of the plug.

I've forgotten a couple times at work to reconnect that after having the air intake out for whatever reason.

This. If you however want to make it more fun on the street and want to swap a manual in there, it can be done and not at all hard. Make sure you match the front and rear diffs (3.7 -3.7, 3.9 - 3.9), get a kit from Jerry if he's still making them, and bolt a 5-speed in there. You will need a shortened driveline if you put a 5-speed in there as well. Only wiring modification I believe that needs to be done, is a jumper wire to bypass the neutral safety switch and you'll plug that into the connector that the shifter plugs into. The ECM in these cars is very basic and is only there to run the engine. The transmission has no computer and is regulated off of the engine which is controlled by your foot:banana: It has been awhile since I played with an EA81T. I could be getting some of it mixed up with the manual swap I did in my '87

I might be persuaded to go look at these if anyone is interested since they're in my neck of the woods:drunk:

Not mine but I know it can be hard to find some of these older engines. http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/3465469840.html

The attachment you originally posted is pretty much what mine looks like but t threads onto the end of my slide hammer. It came in a slide hammer kit I bought from Matco and I use it all the time. Not sure how you would figure out the thread pitch on the attachment to verify if it'll thread onto your slide hammer though.

It was great! Hadn't really had a chance to get the Outback out In the snow since we bought it last year. Does anyone know if Noah made it back home ok in his box?

It'll swap. There is tons of info on the board about doing the 3AT to 5-speed swap including the info I've been posting for years. It's pretty much a bolt in swap, with the exception of putting a jumper wire in the harness that plugs into the automatic shifter assembly.

Woohoo! I will also have a tow chain and a come along with me if someone might need them. You never know....

The factory EA axles should have the lines on the DOJ cup that you describe. Factory EJ axles for the most part have a green DOJ cup.

I think Subaru recommends replacing the plugs every 30k because of the wasted spark system. I would use the NGK V-Power plugs and change every 30k.

Here are some pictures of the grille and glovebox door. Both in good shape!

Have you jacked up all 4 corners and had someone take it up in speed? Sometimes it's the only way I can figure out a bad wheel bearing.

Since you live close, I could give you a hand as I just removed the same setup from my coupe. It was actually really easy once you know where everything goes.

I had my local Napa do some fittings for the swap that I did a couple years ago. I had both the original lines and the Legacy lines, took them in and asked if they could put the original end on the rack side on the Legacy lines. Only cost me $30 for the fittings:brow:

I don't have a scanner but I might be able to get a pic of it. First, I gotta find it....

The carbs came on the heads of the EA81 RX overseas. Seen an old brochure picture and in it they show a couple different shots of the engine. Mmmmmmm....

Your car has the 5x100mm like you said. The 5 is the number of wheel lugs and 100mm is the distance between two studs. Not two studs next to each other but with one inbetween them. There are some other variables that you can look further into like wheel width and backspacing. Really you should be able to fit a 16", 17", or an 18" without much issue. It also depends on the size of tire you want to run as well. The larger diameter of wheel you go, less sidewall of the tire. It's great for handling purposes but it can also give you a slightly harsher feel of the road. Also keep in mind how much tires will cost you over the years and sizes can vary in price considerably. Tire Rack is always a good place to start. They can ship you a wheel/tire package with TPMS sensors already together and you would just need to bolt them on and go.

I would highly suspect the rear wheel bearings. I've done more on earlier Foresters and first generation USDM WRXs then any other years with pressed in wheel bearings.

Pretty much the reason. They started putting the crank guide plate on manual transmission cars as when they were on the boat getting shipped, they were left in gear and would jump the timing belt.

I've found that the pull pin for the timing belt tensioner are usually perfect for sliding in there to check them. I have tons of them laying around and seem to work pretty good.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=137407 Check out this thread. He says he's willing to pull parts....