Caboobaroo

because I like the thought of a 2.8 and I also have the heads also and performance parts are readliy accessible

I resent that. The FWD 2.8s are crap. This will be from a RWD car. I also have a set of twisted wedge aluminum heads for it plus a set of 350 rods with the offset shaved off of them....all I have to say is 12:1 compression. I have one of these motors in my 1988 Camaro. It has 148k on it and I need to mess with the timing again because I screwed it up but it runs like a champ!!!Besides, its one of the smallest v6s and it fits better then any other v6.....so QUIT TALKIN CRAP ABOUT IT!!!!! I hate it when people do that, sheesh....

well its close to no more. I have been currently stripping this thing down to the body the past few days. I've been getting help from my sister's b/f and also some help from Andrew. So this is what I have taken off as of right now... hood, doors, fenders, bumpers, winshield, seats, carpet, dash, wiring harness (engine and cab), headlights, front valence, grille, weather stripping, insulation, headliner and misc. interior pieces, heater core, dome light, windshield wiper motors and assemblies, cowl, fuel pump, and a few more odds-n-ends I can't quite remember. Sorry I have no pics right now but I am getting a disposable camera and so hopefully I'll be able to put some pics up of it:D

I could start off with leafs and then eventually go with the 4-link down the road......but I'd still like to know of a place where I could read up on it and so I can start figuring it out:D

Pirate board? Whats that and do you have a link to it possibly? Yeah offroading is kinda out of the question with a lowered Brat. I tend to go offroading in large trucks but if I want the occasional Subaru wheelin, I know people to go with:D

well the front suspension setup would also be from a Datsun pickup as well. The motor is going to be a Chevy 2.8 v6 and the transmission is a Borg-Warner T5 5-speed. So basically the only thing left that will be Subaru will be the body. I am hoping to build a Brat drag car in a way. Running 11 second 1/4 I hope:D

Well I'm planning on putting a Datsun pickup solid H190 rear axle into my Brat. I also am planning on doing a 4-link setup in the rear but I know I'm going to have to custom make it myself which shouldn't be too tricky. I just need some help trying to figure it all out and make it work. I am planning on building a tubular chassis that I will have the front end, rear end, motor and tranny mounted too, then I am going to drop the Brat body onto it. If anyone knows of a good website that explains it all and would help me plan out my setup, lemme know please:D

Basically everything that was standard on the GL-10 was an optional upgrade for a GL. The GL-10 came with everything ie. sunroof, power windows, power locks, turbo, plush interior, different style seat controls (driver's height adjustment), and digidash. So everything that the GL-10 had, you could get as a GL but it wasn't standard. Thats why people have GLs with a turbo or a sunroof. I think I might be missing something but I think I got most of the items that the GL-10 had...

yes I would have to agree. Miller is probably one of the best welder companies around. If you plan on getting a small welder like Andrew's, make sure it has a connection for gas on the back of it. You'll be able to use it on a larger variety of stuff and thicknesses

dude just drive down here and I'll weld it up for you for free:D:D:D.....Well a 12 pack might be in order!

check your PCV valve on top of the intake. Sometimes when those go out, it tends to "suck" oil from the crankcase which is followed by a big blue cloud of smoke behind you

well dingling friggin put a different battery in it cause he had a crap battery in it and it went away....the alternator is fried though, go figure

I have some very minor oil leaks on my Brat. I have one around the disty cause there is no o-ring, around the oil pump since I made my own gasket, and around the valve covers just a little bit. I haven't had to put oil in it for awhile too and I do regular oil changes every 3000 miles:D

Well lemme just be the first to say that the flywheel only goes on ONE way. You just have to lay the flywheel on the crank, turn it until all of the bolt holes line up and then bolt it in. Just a heads up:D

I don't have a pic of it and I thought McBrat still had a pic of it but I cannot find it. I will see about finding one cause I know I took one of it. I'll get one before I leave for WYoming since it will be staying here with the wagon:D

I too have a kamei spoiler for a gen 1. I bought it from McBrat about a year ago and I haven't seen anyone else with one yet. I thought it would be pretty cool to get more made....

ehh moving to Wyoming = no money. EVen to FIND one in a wrecking yard is kinda rare and I don't have the time to go shopping around since I still have a bunch to pack so I'm just gonna see if the alternator is bad and if it is, I'm gonna rebuild it with my other alternator. If its not bad, I'll swap my VR out with the other one...

Ok so I was having some problems with the Brat a week ago with the brake light and the charge light coming on. It would run for about 20 seconds GREAT but then it would start to die and the lights would go off and then it would completley die. So I finally got it running without the lights coming on and the other night I was pulling into Taco Bell to get some food and it did it again. Now I can't get it going without the lights off because it runs for about 20 seconds and then it dies. What the hell is going on??? Is it the alternator going bad because I have a theory about the fuel pump being driven off of the ignition while its cranking and then when it starts, it runs off of the field windings, field is dead so the fuel pump quits working so then it drains the bowl. Is this right? I do have another alternator but the brushes are broken in it and so I could use both of them for parts and make one good one but I also have this feeling the VR might be bad as well..... Help?

Ok so it started off with a problem today where I could shut the car off completley and the charge light would stay on. So I went and got gas and when I fired it up, the charge light and the brake light were both on, even after I released the parking brake. SO I do a fat burnout out of the gas station and when my back tires hit the curb, they shut off. I drive the 20 miles to Corvallis or so and the first light I get to, I go to put it in 1st and it dies. I finally get it started again and the two lights are on again. It runs for about 30 seconds, then starts to die and the same time, the charge light goes off. I finally got it to where both light shut off and I drove it to my parents house but it still kinda runs funny. WTF??? Is this car possessed??? HELP? Oh and could this be caused by a bad alternator by chance? Ever since I've had the car, the charge light has been on but it was soooooo dim like it was almost like it was getting a little bit of light from another bulb....

its pretty easy. Just take the 4 screws out for the trim ring, then pull the 4 screws out for the cluster, then disconnect the two electrical connectors and the speedo cable and voila! the best thing to do on the heater core is probably go and get one from a parts store if they carry it. If not, find a Subaru dealership and order one if they still have them in stock. My experience with used ones can be either rewarding or a giant headache so you can choose to pay for a new one, put it in and not worry about it, or get a used one, put it in and have a problem with it in 5k miles:D

heh, well I'm a lesbian trapped in a man's body....does that count?

well I would recommend either the blend or a high mileage motor oil for it. Probably a 5-30w of oil for the 2.2...

probably the easiest thing to do is swap the gauge cluster out. If the speedo doesn't work and the odometer does, you most likely broke something inside the box on the back of the cluster that the speedo cable goes into. If you want to be adventerous, pull it apart and if you need any parts, lemme know. Oh and BTW, is it the GL cluster or the DL? The GL has the tach in it:D

well when you turn the car into the "On" position, the charge light goes off instead of bein on along with the oil light and the brake light. I can drive it but I shut it off and the charge light comes on.

Well I now know why the light stays on. It lets you know that the VR is bad. I pulled off the battery cable and I heard it click. Tapped it a couple times and it still clicked when I touched the battery cable to the battery... I get to get the one from the wagon in there now....yay... Oh and thanks Mike, I'm gonna go out and rejet my carb now. I'll see about getting some more jets to replace the ones I took:D