Caboobaroo

well I was just wondering whether this is a JDM motor or not. So I have the oil pan off because it was pretty dented up so is there anyway to tell if these are hydraulic lifters or not.....

sounds like you might need to adjust your idle mixture screw which is located on the front of the carb at the bottom. If you adjust it in, you run leaner, if you screw it out, it'll run richer.

so there is no other way to tell if it is a JDM motor without pulling it apart? I don't have money for new h/g's and I like to replace those whenever I pull a head off.... Oh, Where would the sticker be at?

yeah Andrew, read what Jared wrote:D Its a solid axle from a Datsun wagon so the axles should be strong enough. I basically want to do it so I can drag frame like a minitruck but still have it be a Brat. I soooo wanna drop a GN turbo motor into this car...like Mike said "That would be Scary fun"....well not just scary fun, more like scary fast:D

well I got the "new" motor today from Jason. I've been prepping it for paint and stripping the other blue motor that has the shot thrust bearing in it. This new motor I think might be a JDM motor but I'm not sure yet. Its gonna become another pretty Ford Dark Blue motor just like the other one. Well I best be gettin back to cleaning it and getting it ready to drop in tomorrow and pull the blue motor back out:-\

your best bet is to swap the intake and drop a hitachi onto your motor. Replacement parts for a Carter-Weber are almost impossible to find unless you know how to substitute in another kind of part that works. I had the same problem with my '83 2wd hatchback. It too had a Carter-Wber on it and it had the same problem. I could never figure out what it could be, even after I traded it for my '79 wagon.

Well I was wondering if this "new" EA71 I just got from BajaVWSoobnut is possibly a JDM motor. It is very clean and has just a light oil film on it. There is a sticker or there WAS a sticker on the portion on the block where the disty bolts in (well its more on the side of the hole for the disty) and it has japanese lettering on it. I know this isn't the stock motor from Andrew's '77 wagon because his wagon should have had an external water passage underneath the intake like the motor I pulled out of the Brat. I also noticed it had those stupid little "Void If Removed" buttons on the heads. So is there anyway I can physically tell if this might be a JDM motor without pulling the heads off?

looking at my FSM it shows the thrust bearing is integrated into the center main bearing. This is exactly what is out on one of my EA71s....

my Brat!!!! This is no ordinary solid axle conversion though. I am going to be using a Datsun 510 wagon axle and stuff it in the rear. I then am going to make a 4-link setup for it and rework the front suspension to make......... The TRUE MINIBRAT!!!! I already an axle lined up for the project. If this all goes good, I might start making a conversion kit for a gen 1 so other people can do this but that will be just a little while down the road. I figure this will be my big project while I'm in Wyoming besides building the EA81TT for the wagon. I'm thinking about even tually building an EA81TT for the Brat too but thats in the future:D I can get a posi unit for this axle easily and I can decide what gear ratio I want to use. Even though some people might not want to hear it but I also had the thought running through my head to drop a Grand National 3.8 turbo motor into it with the 5-speed but thats just a thought I had.....

I'm gonna get "Subaru" in japanese made for my Brat windshield. It has it on the starter and so I'm gonna have a local graphic shop make it for me:D

Well I readjusted my valves and well.........I'm a little pissed off right now because the thrust washer inside the shortblock on the crank is shot thus creating a rod knock. So my pretty blue motor I spent a lot of time on is a pile of garbage. So I have another motor on its way tomorrow that I am trading my old Brat motor for (this motor is supposed to have only 35k on it!!!) I then get to put a couple bolts back on it, fix the broken bolts that hold the intake on (or just bolt my rebuilt heads on), paint it up, drop on my Weber, and make sure everything is good to go and drop it right on it and get it running:cool:

well I checked the sending unit with my ohm meter and it was bad so I replaced it with the old one off the other motor and so no more oil light. I never rebuilt this motor, I just tore it down to the shortblock and did a reseal on it with rebuilding the heads. Before I put the valve covers back on it, I adjusted the valves but I wasn't very confident since I asked Andrew to help cause I had never done it and it was before I had any sort of manual. The noise sounds like it is coming from the passenger side head on the #3 cylinder. It doesn't quite sound like a rod knock but I have never heard a rod knock in one of these motors before so I could be wrong....I'm almost positive its the valves clattering because it almost seems like it is too slow to be a rod knock.....So I'm gonna go adjust my valves again with my FSM, a couple wrenches and some feeler gauges:D

ok I got some clarification on the EA71 differences. '77-'78 model years had the external crossover pipe. I *had* one in my '78 Brat. Now in '79-'81 they had the internal water passages with an 1800 waterpump. I believe after that they went to the fat case EA71. I could get pics of all of them if people are interested:D

ok so I checked the firing order that Andrew told me and he was wrong by two wires (he got two switched). So now it runs but I have to fix the throttle linkage and it also seems to have a knock to it. I'm thinking it might be my valves in need of readjustment but also my oil light is on......I put the right amount of oil in it and the oil pressure sending unit it hooked up but I'm thinking the sending unit might be bad:(

Well I dropped the other 1600 into my Brat (the pretty blue one from my wagon). I did a full reseal job, adjusted valves, new waterpump, rebuilt oil pump, new Holley 5200 from a 2.3 Pinto, electronic disty from an '83 EA81 2wd and new pushrods cause one as bent when I did the reseal. So I get it all bolted in and lookin good, a few minor odd-n-ends that I had to buy (bolts for the carb, hoses and little stuff) and I set the timing to 8 BTDC and drop the disty in to set the static timing. I get the everything hooked up like it should and I'm think "Dang this is lookin GOOD!!!!!". I jump in and crank her over and it starts backfiring through the exhaust and it was backfiring through the carb. My first thought was "Hmmm the timing is off". I get out and fiddle with the timing and well long story short, I screwed with the timing and I FINALLY got it to start but it had the sound of running on just two cylinders......I messed with the timing some more and it still backfires through both the carb and the exhaust. What did I do wrong?!?!?!?! I haven't fired this motor up since I did all the work stated in the first two sentences above so did I do something wrong?? I need help with this cause this is my daily driver and I am currently getting rides to work from friends...HELP????

you can also look for the sought after dual carb setup for an EA71...I just happen to know where one is and HOPEFULLY *crosses fingers* I can get it for a good price....You know who you are that has it:brow:

ok I hate to say it but everyone's ideas are not the best......EZ outs just plain suck gorilla nipples, drilling it out is a better idea but the fact that some of you have mentioned using left hand drillbits....come on guys, this car is a '78, its gonna do it again and it'll have crap threads left.....No here is probably the easiest and the least head hurting thing to do (I've done it on my EA71 in my Brat before) Go to like Carquest or Napa or wherever, get a helicoil kit thats the right size (it'll be about 40 bucks but its worth it) drill out the hole to the size stated on the package, tap the hole, put some silicone on the helicoil, screw it in, break off the tab inside and voila!, a new hole. What even better is you can use this kit not one but like 8 times and it works for a lot of the bolts on the motor like the alternator bracket, things like that:D

its the distys that are quite different. If you can find an electronic disty from a 2wd sedan or hatch, it has a better advance curve to it giving you more power:D I got one in the Brat right now and it runs sooooo much better than the stupid crappy points disty did

yeah and while Andrew is havin a hay day in Laramie, I get to prep another motor and drop it into my Brat today and tomorrow.....this is not gonna be that much fun cause I have no cherry picker and Andrew isn't here so I can't have him bring it over to help me:( And if anyone says to put it in the Brat, it would prolly bounce right on out which is not something I want to do.....

Ooo very nice dude. Maybe I should bring my wagon on down and we can do some body mods to it;) I'll PM you with what would be goin on with it. But congrats!!! That thing is pimp looking, just needs something on the front and rear ends to finish it off Oh and BTW, what are those rims from? Did you redrill your hubs or something??? Those rims are PIMPTASTIC!!!

:slobber: and for the 10,000th time LOG OUT RUSSELL!!!!!

hey man, if ya need someone to help read your a/f gauge and your boost gauge, I'm right up the road sorta speak;) I got today and tomorrow off from work or Friday-Sunday after 4 so I could come on down and help ya if ya like:D I soooo wanna see this beast in person!!!

Ea81 and EA71 axles are almost the same. I have only noticed one difference between them when I had one lying next to the other. The EA81 axle is like maybe an inch longer than the EA71. Other than that, they are the same. If your hubs are worn out and you also need to do a brake job, I can help you upgrade your front disks from non-vented to vented. It very simple, grab the front calipers and rotors from an 84-newer EA81 vehicle and they bolt right on. You will have to use the EA71 backing plates but there are no other major differences. Idid just that but I also made new stabilizer bars for the EA81 control arms so I have the vented rotors, capliers, control arms and backing plates from an EA81 car:D Found it wasn't too hard either

there are differences between the turbo/mpfi/spfi/carbed motors but it all depends on what exactly you have. If you have a carbed motor, it'll be pretty obvious with the air cleaner on top of the motor. Then there is SPFI which is Single Port Fuel Injection. It will clearly be labeled on top of the air hose that runs from the airbox to the top of the throttle body. Next there is MPFI (Multi Port Fuel Injection) which has 4 seperate injectors, one in each cylinder. Lastly there is the turbo motor which is also MPFI but it has differences compared to the regular MPFI. The turbo is hard to miss because the plenim running into the throttle body has "Subaru 4wd Turbo" labeled on it. I hope this helps and hopefully you can figure it out:D Oh and BTW, the EA82 is a 1.8 liter motor

It sounds like a clutch problem and maybe a bad tranny mount. Just start checking things to see if they are worn out/broken. If you have a loose/broken tranny mount, you'll get a nice clunking sounds...I know, had one that was crap on my '78 Brat:D