Caboobaroo

When I got my wagon, it leaked from the disty and the crank main seal was SHOT so it sprayed oil all over the engine bay. I had also noticed that it was leaking form the oil pump and I found out later when I dismantled it, the oil pump had some nasty score marks inside the housing so on went a new oil pump (well used but it good shape). As for spending 100 bucks on an engine kit, check ebay. I got mine off of ebay for $20.95 shipped. Also I've gotten a full carb kit from Knects for like 25 bucks and it includes everything so there ya go on that one. The disty has an O-ring around it to prevent the oil from coming up. Now cleaning the carb, I soaked it in Chem-tool overnight and then sprayed it down with a can of carb cleaner. Worked pretty well if ya ask me:D Now my Brat runs like a champ and talk about the fatty posi burnies in RWD.....

Not exactly sure but you could find a spring that has a higher spring rate but is shorter than stock. It might take some searching but in the end, your car would handle better than cut stock coils. Really the only way to lower a Subaru is either use other stock springs like the 2wd XT or in Andrew's case, 2wd XT6 springs, or to cut them. If you have a big nasty swaybar in the rear, cutting the rear coils is fine and it will handle a lot better that it does stock. Or you could do it like my Brat and pull the coils out completley and crank the torsion bars down so it all sits on bumpstops like this.... http://usmb.net/gallery/album225/AUT_3284 Mwahahahahaha!!!! Granted the ride is a little bumpy, I've gotten used to it fairly easily. It also handles like its on rail through corners!!!

cool way to go!!! If ya need help, lemme know. I usually check the board like a gazillion times a day and since I've done a few of these carbs, I've got the hang of it

I know there is a Taco Bell in Kalamath Falls which is right in the middle of it on your way through it. I'm going from memory but I was through there in April and we stopped at Taco Bell for food. That might be a good place for you guys to meet up:D I can see what places there are down there that are easy to find that y'all can meet up. Just tryin to help ya guys out!!

Why buy a Subaru?? Well I'm a Chevy guy and I know Chevy's pretty well but it took me awhile to figure them out but Subaru on the other hand, they are so easy to work on I was amazed!!! The parts depending on the era of the Subaru can either be really easy to find or can be a pain in the butt. Granted I like my Gen 1's but its becoming a pain to find parts for them in wrecking yards anymore. I just put a remand waterpump into my '78 Brat and the pump cost me 16 bucks where as the waterpump for my 1988 Camaro w/v6 cost me about 50 bucks. So why buy a Subaru, cheap and easy to repair when they need it. ALso they run forever if you take care of them:D

Lemme in on the 70's rims also. I know Paul was first but I just want to gander to see if there is anything that might look good on my Brat. Granted it looks pretty nice with EA82 steels but I might wanna change:D....Maybe to some 14's if people don't swipe them first!!

yeah mine was like that. We should get together soon and we could figure something out. Gimme a ring, my cell numer is 541-740-3226

yeah but the soon to be fastest EA81TT won't be:D But DUUUDe that car is one PIMPIN ride!!!!! I wish I could have gotten it!!

What I would do is sned it up here to me and a few bucks, I'll get a rebuild kit and pull out the FSM and rebuild it for ya;) If you do plan on rebuilding it yourself, be careful!! These older Hitachis are VERY temprimental little buggers and if it doens't get done right, it won't run right....Go figure:rolleyes:

You got back just in time. Check out my lowered Gen 1 Brat:D:D http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18904 Glad to hear you're back online!!

ok this is a true minitruck garner so here is what I did... I removed the front coild completly and cranked the torsion bars down so it sits on the bumpstops in the rear. There is NO suspension travel at all but I have thought up a good way to lower it so it has some suspension travel. First off, crank the torsion bars down to where I have them set on mine, remove the rear bumpstops. This should give you some suspension travel in the rear....Cut the front coils and there is about an inch of rubber bumpstop inside the strut cap which you can remove. This will give you about and 1 1/2" in the front. We could get together and go through it. I have my FSM too...... But yeah, my Brat died in front of this house cause I neded to fiddle with the carb. So I'm out there with my screwdriver and the hood popped messin with the idle mixture screw when 3 hot chicks come walkin out to get into their car. All three come over and they ask me if I needed help with a little giggle added in. I overheard one say that she thought it was a pretty cool little car....Then after I got it goin again, I hopped into it and took off and they followed me through Corvallis!!!! Yeah!!!

yeah go old school!!! After I lowered my Brat, a guy that has done a fair amount of minitrucks including Datsuns which are his favorite, I showed up at his house one day and he was thrilled to see it slammed. He said it was one of the most coolest rides he had seen even though its poop brown. He also liked the boxster sound coming out though the glasspack in the rear. So guess what I'm bringin to WCSS6.....

Nice. I think I'm gonna hunt around for a big 5 1/2" Monster Tach with a shift light for the Brat and one for the wagon. I would get even weirder looks then I already do:D

OK you have two screws to play with. There is the idle adjustment screw which is pretty obvious (on the left front of carb) and there is the idle mixture screw which is located in the middle of the carb. Now when you lower the idle of the car, you must get it where you need to BEFORE you mess with the mixture screw. Once you get it to the right idle, start turning the mixture screw clock-wise until the car starts to run really rough. It is now too low but according to the FSM, this is where it must be in order to adjust it. So once it gets to the point of running rough/wanting to die, you must turn the screw counter clock-wise 2 1/2 turns. Now its set. I hope this helps ya out:D I sure did it to my Brat after I cleaned the carb out and it runs like a champ!!

well whatever it is, its putting unburned fuel into the exhaust causing it to backfire which would also make your mileage suck. I would check the timing and yes, a vacuum leak could cause it but lets start where it would be the easiest. So, check your timing, if thats not it, check your vacuum lines to see if you have a leak.

I have to agree. EA82, maybe turbo, but the auto part doesn't matter. I believe almost all aftermarket EA82 radiators have the connections for the cooler lines. Oh but it does look NICE!!

Ok so I have had a lot of people ask me about this swap and what it takes and so forth. Well here is the detailed list of what it takes. 1. Remove the disty cap and the wires. 2. Disconnect both vacuum lines from the points disty along with the single wire that comes from the engine wiring harness that is attached to the side of the disty. Make sure to mark the position of the rotor prior to pulling the disty. 3. Remove the 10mm bolt from the disty and pull it out and remove the plate for under the disty also. 4. Bolt the EA81 disty plate onto the motor, then drop your new electronic disty into your motor. Make sure the disty rotor is pointing in the same position as the old one. The new disty will have 2 wires (yellow and black) and a spot for ONE vacuum line (we'll get to that later) 5. Connect the two wires to the coil. The yellow one goes to the positive and the black one goes to the negative. 6. Now, connect the TOP vacuum line to the advance on the disty and plug the other with a bolt (the one on the disty is for the advance and the plugged one is for a retard) 7. Now comes the fun with timing. If for some reason, it doesn't run right, check the timing. According to my disty, it is all the way advanced but I still don't see the timing marks on the flywheel yet it runs like a champ. Now some of you are goin, "What do I do with this part here?" referring to the ballast resistor on top of the coil. Now I still have it on the Brat and it still runs so why bother??? As one of my auto college professors says, "If it's not broken, don't mess with it!!!":D Oh and BTW, the disty I used was from a 1983 2wd EA81

Ok OK so a bunch of you have been PMing me about when I was gonna get more pics of the Brat since I lowered it. I also had a couple PMs about the shaved bumpers and a few other things I've done to it. So I will show pics first, explain later. Here's the pics: Before I lowered it....http://usmb.net/gallery/album267 After I lowered it.....http://usmb.net/gallery/album225 So first off the shaved bumpers. I unbolted the stock bumpers is all. I plan on filling in the holes from them but I haven't had a chance too. I also put on a set of EA82 steels I got from Andrew for 50 bucks. They were under his 1987 GL turbowagon (Ed might recognize them;)) I have added a nice sounding exhaust made of a custom y-pipe, about 1' 6" of flex pipe, and a Blue Streak glasspack with a GIANT chrome tip on it. It gives it a nice ring. Basically for lowering it, I pulled the coils out of the front, cranked the torsion bars down in the rear and voila!! The ride is a little umm....stiff but I've gotten used to it. Lemme say, this ride is so pimpin, it has attracted some of the local college chicks in my town!!

well that might work if I hadn't already changed the cap and rotor. When I did the electronic disty conversion, I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and wires. So I've done a tune-up already but it still has this slight hesitation. I think the next thing I'm gonna do is rebuild the carb with a full rebuild kit.

ok so I replaced the fuel filter. It is better but it still has a slight hesitation. I could change the fuel pump but I don't think its the problem.....

I know Andrew (Hondasucks) did a motor swap in his old '77 4wd wagon. He put a newer EA81 with the internal VR into the car and he was able to elminiate the external VR. I've talked to him a few times about it because I want to do the same thing in both of my gen 1 cars. He told me that he wired the fuel pump to the coil so when the coil saw power when the car was "ON", the fuel pump would come on. You might want to PM him but he won't be back into town until late tonight but I can call him and tell him that y'all need some help:D Russ

I'm gonna check the fuel filter tomorrow and get a new one probably. Currently I have a fuel filter out of an '85 turbo parts car but I was in need of one and well when you have no money, you gotta do what you gotta do....

most likely to keep the cost down, you might want to do it yourself. It seems like it would be hard but I'm planning to do a twin turbo conversion on an EA81T motor. I'm gonna be using smaller turbos but the only thing I'm gonna have to make will be.....up pipe, down pipe, and the intake tubing for the turbos and the intercooler. Anything is possible if you have the time/money to do it:D

YEAH go Brats!!!! My '78 has a blown driver side axle and so I'm in 4wd. Since I lowered it, its a bit light in the butt so it'll light them up posi almost all the time. Its great especially when I grab the e-brake and do as I call "Fatty Bratty Burnies":D

It worked but only a little. It still has a slight fuel problem so it has the hesitation like it did before but not as bad. I'm guessing the fuel filter also but that means I gotta come up with some cash to get one. Well the exhaust is custom. It has a custom y-pipe to a resonator, to about 2 feet of flex pipe and a Blue Streak glasspack with a BIG chrome tip on it. No cat whatsoever:D