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Caboobaroo

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Everything posted by Caboobaroo

  1. Well I got one control arm tacked into place and looking good so now I'm gonna really take a welder to it and buzz a nice looking bead onto it. Pics from this mornings progress: http://usmb.net/gallery/album211/AUT_3236 http://usmb.net/gallery/album211/AUT_3237 http://usmb.net/gallery/album211/AUT_3238 Josh, yeah we can do the conversion but we're gonna have to modify the rear trailing arms (I can show ya on Sunday) but we sure can do a brake job on Sunday. If we can find an 84 EA81 wagon/hatch/coupe, we can get the front rotors off of it and capliers and do the vented rotor swap too if you want to.
  2. I can attest that an EA82 will break them loose. I had Andrew's 87 GL turbowagon roasting the tires through part of third. I was chasin some butt munch down in his Acura that is gonna get beat into last week cause well he's a BLEEEEEEEP!!!!!!! I thought I'd make this rated PG so the moderators wouldn't yell at me:D
  3. Just don't run more than a quart or so, ATF doesn't lubricate the cylinder walls as well as motor oil, but mixed in wiht regular oil you are fine. I have heard filling your crankcase with ATF and idling it for 10 minutes or so does a good job of cleaning all the gunk out of your enigine, but I have also heard that if your engine is totally gunktified, it will break all that stuff free at once, which will clog your oil filter, and then the rest of that crap will go throuigh the bearings and wipe them out, so from what I've been told only do it if you are planning on rebuilding the motor, and want to get as much sludge free from inside as possible. Dammit Russ, LOG OUT WHEN YOU ARE DONE USING THE BOARD AT MY HOUSE
  4. Well a few of the advantages of switching is: 1. I priced ball joints for an EA71 and the were almost 30 bucks a piece where the EA81 ball joints were 30 bucks for both 2. Parts are a little easier to find where as even though I live in the PNW, parts are still a little hard to come by Well I want to get away from the yellow and go something else and I thought of black. I'm also working on getting my interior so it will be completely black too. Eventually, I'll prolly put an EA82 sunroof in it or something like that but for now, I'm doin my suspension and brake mods to help keep the cost of parts down. I'll get back to ya on how much it'll be Todd but prolly about 30 bucks for the tins plus shipping. Sound good?
  5. Well today I hope I can get the stabilizer bar welded to the control arm and at least get everything loosly put on the passenger side for test fitting. If it all works out, then I will do the drivers side too and then get everything painted and reassembled. I then will have the task of doing a brake job on it using the 84-newer EA81 vented rotors and calipers to mount but from the looks of that, it'll be like doing another brake job on a Subaru:D Once I get the front end squared away, I then will pull the tranny, motor, and maybe the cross member so I can clean them up (minus motor) paint them, and drop everything back into the car but before I drop the motor back in, I'm gonna finish painting the engine compartment black so them the Dark Ford Blue will stand out more when you open up the hood:cool: Oh and then when I get the front done, I'm gonna lower the back and do a disc brake conversion to it (I found like 3 sets for rear disc brakes in the j/y!!!)
  6. For all of those who are keeping up with the saga, I just started to test fit everything into the wagon tonight. I got some pics but they're kinda dark. For those who have no clue what I've been doing, for the past month or so, I've been converting the front suspension in my 79 4wd wagon from the EA71 suspension (control arms, ball joints, knuckles, rotors, calipers) to EA81 suspension. I have yet to really start to dig into my brake conversion for the front but I'm workin as fast as I can. http://usmb.net/gallery/album211/AUT_3206http://usmb.net/gallery/album211/AUT_3207 http://usmb.net/gallery/album211/AUT_3208 http://usmb.net/gallery/album211/AUT_3198 I also got some pics of the lowering job I'm doing to it. I cut 3 coils from each spring but I only have the drivers side loosly put on so I could see how much lower it is. It dropped about 2-3 inches. I have compared it with the back which I have yet to lower but will soon! Enjoy:D http://usmb.net/gallery/album211/AUT_3199 http://usmb.net/gallery/album211/AUT_3200 http://usmb.net/gallery/album211/AUT_3201
  7. is that a Brat I see sitting on its side?!?!?!?!?!?! WTF????
  8. Was it Mikes 98 Impreza he had redone and is/was for sale? Its a 4-door and is a stick:D
  9. From what I know, all gen 1's have strut cartridges in the front and the rear is regular shocks. It involves a big wrench to get the nut/cap thing off the top of the cartridge that has to be removed and then the cartridge will slide out but **WARNING** from what my FSM says, there should be oil inside the cartridge. Instead of being a fully enclosed gas strut, it is an oil filled and it also uses part of the housing it slides into for the bottom. So basically be careful when removing the nut/cap from the top and removing the cartridge from the housing:D
  10. HELL YEAH I've seen a set of those before!!!! There's a 1980 wagon rollin around Albany with those rims and they are imacculate!! He currently has 3 on the car cause one blew a tire and he does't have money or something to get new tires so he's running on a spare. But yeah this guy has his brushed polished and the inside of the turbines are black. Pretty pimp on a 2 tone red wagon if ya ask me:D
  11. meh adaptor plate. We can get about 40 or 50 carb gaskets ranging in sizes, glue them all together, use a knife and shape it and make our OWN carb adaptor:D
  12. HAHAHAHA sounds like the Beer Wagon saga. It all started with Andrew's 1977 4wd wagon that was the color of a beer can. Then it went my buddy Randy's 1978 4wd wagon and it was green (Beer Wagon #2) and now I have the 1979 4wd wagon that is named Beer Wagon #3.
  13. *bump* Any pics of your control arms yet? I need to start making some and I actually did start a bit today but I would like some pics so I know if I'm goin in the right direction.
  14. sounds like you're gettin there Josh. Way to go man!! Hey, I forgot to email you with my cell number but here it is anyways (541)760-3226. Hope to see ya soon drivin this little red beast around:D
  15. yes the EA81 flywheel no matter what year it came from, WILL bolt onto an EA81 crank, regardless of it being an automatic or a manual when it was first built in the factory. It sounds like this guy needs to pull his head out of his @$$ and admit he was wrong. I'm not sure if the EA71 flywheel would bolt onto an EA81, even though I have an EA71 in my wagon, but from what you tell me, it sounds like it is an EA71 flywheel which will use a smaller clutch disk than the EA81s
  16. yes this is just the front but you can check out my other post on rear disk brakes http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14967 and it will give you some ideas on how to convert your rear drums to discs!!! Its really not hard at all from what I've gathered, now I just need the parts and the %^$&%^$& rain to stop:D
  17. well went to the j/y today and they have like 4 sets of rear discs!!! Knowing them, they'll prolly want 70-80 bucks for just the whole shibang.....
  18. well you can always find a different set of rims like Cal-Masters http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/calmaster.jpg which are a little wider than stock 13's. So you could run a larger width tire on it, giving you a better stance in the sand. As for fitting 205's or 215, you can do it on stock rims, but I would NOT recommend it. You'd be popping beads so easily by taking a turn just a hair too fast, wheelin in the sand, etc.
  19. Ooooo sounds good. Do you have any pics of it?
  20. Well since EA81 control arms will not fit into my EA71 wagon, I was thinking about making some, sorta like tubular a-arms. Does anyone have any experience making anything like this? I have the fabricating skill but I just want to get some ideas of what kind of stuff I'm gonna run into that might snag me up. Thanks Russ
  21. So I need a set of rotors, backing plates and calipers for an EA82? Do I need the trailing arms or anything else or is it just the parts mentioned above?
  22. Well I just got off the phone with Jason and here is what he said: You use EA82T rear discs for the conversion. He said that all you need to do is bolt everything in and sometimes depending on the car, there is one bolt that will not go in all the way so then you have to grind a bit off of whatever its hitting so it'll go right in. Parts list consists of... calipers, rotors, and all the bolts from it. So now I'm gonna be on the hunt for rear discs and do the conversion, take pictures and have it put in the USRM. I am also gonna be having the front suspension swap, seen in one of my other threads, in there also.
  23. hehehe lookin good Eric!!! I can't wait till I can fill it with some nice smooth cold beer;) Now Mike and I will have our first official USMB drunken meeting during WCSS6 right:brow:
  24. EA81 vented rotors!!! I am currently working on converting the front suspension on my wagon to full EA81 suspension with cutom made tubular control arms. But if you do not want to go throughthe hassle of changing it all, then heres a sinmple upgrade for you and parts will sometimes be less spendy. First off, remove the rotors and calipers from your donor car. The donor car must be an 84 or newer EA81 car so it will have vented rotors. So after you have your needed parts, jack up and remove the calipers and rotors from the car that is getting the swap done to it. Its basically remove one set of calipers and rotors and put the other set on. To my knowledge, it should all bolt into place. I will be trying it in a couple days or if I can get to it today. *edit* - The EA81 backing plates for the rotors are different. All you would need to do is drill a hole in the plate so the small 12mm bolt will fit into it right
  25. well not so sure on what size tires to run but I do have something that can make you give your carn an extra 1-2 inches in just a few hours. In the front at the bottom of the springs, there should be an adjuster and if you adjust this up as high as it'll go, then you'll be sittin about an inch and a half higher. The back is a little harder seeing you have to pull the torsion bars out but if there is anyone in your area (ie a friend) that has experience lowering minitrucks or lifting something that has torsion bars, you should be set.
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