Caboobaroo

In order to do the axle reboot, you will need to drain the transmission as it will puke gear oil out of the axle seal once the axle is removed. Since its an inner boot, its fairly easy once the axle is out. Remove the old band clamps, just inside the inner axle cup is a wire snap ring that you can use a small flathead screwdriver to remove. Do not throw it out as you'll need it to put back together. It is there to prevent the joint from coming out of the cup. Then remove the snap ring right on top of the axle shaft that holds the inner portion of the joint onto the shaft, remove the boot and install the new one. I think you can rent axle boot clamp tools as well. The nice thing about the Empi kits is the clamps are fairly easy to pinch together whereas the factory clamps are a bear...

Nope, not a lot of aftermarket parts available for the 3.0. If you replace the belt, also replace the tensioner and the idler as well since they bolt have issues with siezing. First thing I did on my Outback when I first bought it as it was making a bit of noise:D

I use antisieze on the slide pins as regular brake silicone will gum up after heat cycles and cause the slides to stick. I also put antisieze on the backs of the pads where the caliper contacts them to help with noise. Most shops will not lube the slides usually when doing a brake job. Heck, even the lube that comes in the new calipers can eventually gum up and stick. When I press the pistons back in, I always crack the bleeder screw in order to get the old fluid out of the caliper. This can also help prevent the pistons from sticking and is usually the easiest way to know if you're having an issue inside the caliper.

If you need body parts for the main body (non bolt on parts) I have a silver 2wd '87 coupe about to get scrapped that is rust free.... Come haul away the shell and you can have it;)

You can also check out getting a set of DBA4000 rotors, Hawk HPS pads and a good set of stainless steel braided brake lines. Those 3 I have seen the most braking performance on a budget.

Sounds like a similar kit I use as well! You don't need to if you have a hub tamer but since I do not, I always remove the knuckle and use a floor press...

Not quite..... The Forester, Impreza, WRX and STi had press in wheel bearings front and rear until 2008 when they became bolt in all around. Legacys starting in 2000 had bolt in rear wheel bearings and in 2005, the fronts became bolt in as well. Even though 2005 Legacy rear bearing assemblies look the same as the 00-04, they are not. The '05 and newer have the ABS tone ring built into the bearing where the older style has the tone ring on the axle still and putting an olr style into a newer car will damage the ABS sensor! Almost made that mistake when I got the wrong one close to bolted in. Now it would be something I would have someone at least press out and in the bearing but removing the knuckle isn't too difficult. Remember where the parking brake hardware goes and you should be all right. Oh and buy an Empi boot kit and reboot the axle. I think they retail right around $30/joint and yes, it's a messy job but fairly simple. Hope that helps!

Looks like the bottom mount for the A/C compressor. It should bolt in down on the bottom, on the driver side. There is a spot in the top of the head on the driver side that should line up with that hole out on the end.

Those factory bushing are actually fluid filled and after many miles, the rubber will eventually crack and let the oil out of them. This will then cause caster changes while driving down the road as there is now less resistance so the control arm will shift around easier. Now I have done quite a few factory replacements but there are a couple things to do to upgrade them. First off, you can buy a complete bushing in holder and install it or you can buy just a bushing and press it into the factory aluminum holder. The latter of the two doesn't really require lubing as its a pressed in bushing that has the metal insert built into the bushing but the ones with separate bushings, metal inserts and holders require lubing at least once a year to protect the bushing from tearing or making noise. If to replace these bushings, remember to tighten the large 22mm nut with the suspension LOADED or else it can preload the bushing weird and tear it quicker.

Sounds like you need to start checking a few other things. On a misfire situation that seems to come on right away, firstly I would check spark and fuel. Since you have already replaced most of the parts in the secondary ignition system, I would swap the fuel injectors between #2 and #4. If the issue follows to #4, then it's most likely a bad fuel injector. Another easy thing to check are the valve guides. It is a common issue where the valve guides start moving in the head and slowly shifting out toward the head of the valve. All you need to do is unbolt the exhaust manifold from the bottom of the heads, grab a flashlight and start looking up into the exhaust ports on the heads. The guides should be only showing about 1/4" but when they shift far enough out, it can actually hold the exhaust valve open and give you a misfire. If the guides look good, then I would do a compression test and/or leak down test. There is also a possibility that you have an exhaust valve burnt that is causing the misfire which can cause low compression and/or 100% leak down.

Carrie and myself will most likely be there. Also might have my parents in tow with us since they will be here that weekend:-p

First off, I would like to say that these parts were rescued from a red '78 wagon in the junkyard a few weeks ago as I know how hard it is to come across certain items. First off, I have a complete grille for a quad headlight setup. In good shape, all the chrome is still there in decent shape on the bottom. Also has the center emblem and the "4 Wheel Drive" emblem on it. - $50 Would be a pain to ship but I will do it at the buyers expense. Next is a black glovebox door from the same wagon. Reason why I saved this? It has two ORIGINAL Subaru keys to go with it. In good shape, no cracks or chips in it. I can also ship this as well. - $40 I'm pretty firm on the prices but I am also willing to do a deal if you buy both:D

Never installed mine. I held it up to my old '79 wagon years ago but that was about it.

Also check out All Wheel Drive Auto in Kirkland. We do a lot of maintenance, head gaskets, timing belts and whatnot. I'm one of the mechanics:D

It's real common for those to break. Even out here in the PNW I have plastic clips break all the time. I personally haven't seen much in the way of aftermarket that fit properly or at all for that matter. I just get new ones from the dealer if I don't have any used ones to replace them. That same clip is the same as the engine cover on the '05 Legacy GT and 3.0R.

Are you bringing them up for me to do? Just curious...

I actually found a great DIY for carpet dying over on http://www.sl-I.net. Funny think is I just stumbled across it a couple days ago. Here's the link to the thread! http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=21710

Looks like my new one when I first got it. Looks good!

The one I had is now in Pooparu's possession:drunk:

They went with a male stub end on the CV axle that pops out of the front diff. If its a manual transmission, you will also need to drain the transmission fluid or be prepared for a gear oil bath when you remove the axle:-p

Sounds like you are testing between the wrong pins. With the correct pins back probed and the key on (engine off), you should have roughly 0.50 volts. If its not near there, then rotate the TPS and watch the values on the multimeter until its within range.

I believe they did in '00 on the Legacy/Outbacks but on Forester and Impreza, they are still on the hub. Now in '05 Legacy/Outbacks, the tone ring is part of the bearing assembly, actually hidden behind the inner seal on the bearing assembly. These are known to have rear wheel bearing issues and Subaru has a warranty up to 100k miles.

Take it to someone that knows what they're doing. Most chain shops don't have a knowledgable person doing them which is probably why you're having issues. I'm a Subaru alignment specialist and have done thousands of Subaru alignments and never had issues unless there was worn suspension/steering components. If you have a printout from the alignment shop, please post up the before and after specs they gave you.

Always unbolt the tone ring, especially the older style as they are pot metal and crumble very easily. I always use a large 3.3lb hammer to pound the old studs out. If you break the tone ring, only way to replace it is to press the hub out replace the tone ring but might as well replace the bearing at the same time.