Caboobaroo

do you have a rear sway bar? Sometimes they can come loose and produce a clunking noise which can be mistaken for U-joints or a bad rear end. Check it first and if its not that (or you don't have one) it could possibly be your U-joints. If you can replace them without replacing the driveshaft (Hondasucks's driveshaft would have to be replaced cause the rear U-joints are staked into place:( ) its an easy fix and its relativly cheap too. It never hurts to put new ones in anyways. One less thing to go wrong when you're driving along.....

get the cheapest pads you can. If you get lifetime pads, they'll end up wearing out the rotors instead of the pads. I saw a 98 Jetta with the stock pads from the factory in it and the rotors were shot but the pads were almost new.....it was horrible cause the person had to buy new rotors at about 80 bucks a piece, YIKES!!!!

Mike, take the beer money!!! we can all get drunk one night and have the first offical USMB drunken meeting. Since you're the offical USMB drunk and I'm the USMB drunken apprentice, we can have a meeting......maybe we can get Andrew in on it too:headbang: speaking of drinking, I've kinda did enough of that tonight:banana:

that thing was sweet looking for like the 10 seconds i saw it. go Mudrat!!!

well last weekend I was on my way to California. I had just crossed the California/Oregon border and I saw a truck towing a Subaru. But what caught my eye about it is it was a very large lifted gen 2 hatchback. If I can remember, it was silver or grey, had about 30" tires on it, and right below the rear window, it had a big "SUBARU" sign in black. It was on its way back into Oregon or Washington. I was just wondering who's this is if its anyone from the board. My mom was shocked that it was a Subaru....... go Suabrus!!!!!!!!!!

well I kinda what something like archemitis wants. I want something that I can put onto my 79 wagon that would make it look nice cause the front is kinda ugly due to some wheeling damage it looks like from one of the previous owners:rolleyes:

Hey Jon, all of the SVX's came with an auto tranny. When they go out people who know whats right put a manual tranny in the (the 5-speed). If I were you, I'd stick with the EA82T idea, its a lot less work and modifying than trying to drop an SVX motor in there. If you Do get one in your hatch and it works, well then you'll have some other issues. First issue is your suspension. Will it hold all that weight of the motor and the tranny? Second is how well will it harness the power; will it break axles left and right or will it break your hubs? Third, is how well would the body itself hold up to it like the structural intergrity of the sub-frame and the unibody, will it tweak the spoob outta it or will it start breaking stuff again? Just a few things to remember when transplanting mtors into different cars, no matter what car it is.

Hondasucks has a 87 GL Turbowagon 4wd and it has chrome doorhandles and its white too, Its not hal bad but I would like to see it with some GL-10 black handles........but thats just my opinion

do you still have it or did you get rid of it? I would really like to see a pic of it so I know what it looks like so then I can get one for the Beer Wagon:banana: doin the happy dance mmm hmm

I know that the filter should hold about 1/2 quart (liters?) Basically when you remove the pan and the filter, you're removing almost all of the fluid. When you're filling. put all but one quart into the tranny and start the motor and drive it for about 10 minutes or so. let it sit with the motor off for about 3 minutes and check the fluid. If its low, put about a half quart into the tranny and do it again but you only need to drive it around the block. After it sits check it again and add however much it seems to need. Now after you've driven it for a few days, check the fuild again and add if needed (sometimes there'll be a pocket of air in the lines and it needs to bleed itself out like a coolant system)

from the sounds of it, it probably is the flexplate. I've been told that it sounds exactly ike a rod knock. We had one come into our shop a couple years ago and everyone was saying it was a rod knock. My boss checked the flexplate first and it was complelty broken off and spinning around. We were all amazed at how it was able to start. Before you drop the pan, either pull the motor out or dop the tranny out and look at the flexplate. Who knows, that might be whats wrong and I think its about 100 bucks or so for a new flexplate (I know its about 60 bucks at NAPA for a Ford 260)

my sister's b/f has a good friend that builds Chevy Luvs with smallblocks in them. One day he took his pride and joy (11 second Luv) to a Jiffy Lube here in the valley. He arrived back about an hour later or leaving his pickup there to have th oil changed (he walked down to NAPA to buys ome parts for another truck). When he arrived, they told him his truck was done. He got in it and turned the key............nothing. He found out that they had started the motor up with NO oil in it. Well we all know what happens when you do that......majorly seized motor. He took them to court and won. He had enough money to rebuild his motor and finish two other trucks!?!?!?! Someimtes I wish I had money like that:boohoo:

it doesn't matter. If you drive around with the toe completley out for 10,000 miles, the tires will start to show signs of wear. But if you get an alignment then a few days later, get tires, it doesn't matter. nothing will change unless they forget to tighten down the nuts on the adjusters on the tie rod ends. Me, I would get the alignment when I get the tires. Do it all at one and you don't have to worry about it. If you have to get one or the other, get the tires first, then the alignment.

weird, a steel horse was damaged by a little sheetmetal rice car..... thats very odd:confused:

well hmmm..... does anyone know if Xt springs will fit by chance?

I'm thinking about putting EA81 struts on my car. Who knows if they'll fit? I just wanted to know before I tore into it and found that they won't fit. Anyone done it before?

no they won't get in the way unless you plan on lowereing it, then you'll have to pull them out or they'll get in the way. Hondasucks and I just did half of a 5-lug conversion on his 87 Turbowagon and they didn't interfere at all.

Ed, I know that Flows engine compartment is clean as a whistle. Mine on the other hand was covered from top to bottom with grease and oil (due to a bad crank seal). So I don't think that grease is an issue in his case. He did tell me today that the bearings in his last alternator went out and thats why he had to replace it. I thinkits just because AutoZone can't rebuild alternators good enough to last............

WOAH!!! I wish that someone had something like that for my 79 wagon....that would be pimp!!!!

yeah they were and they only came on the GL-10's. Look at the other Subaru wagons like the GLs. I didn't even notice it until a few weeks ago and someone had to tell me that they were not an option but instead only came on the GL-10's.

no , fuel pumps before the go completley out will work irratically. I have a car that has a bad electronic fuel pump in the tank and it has issues like major backfiring, wanting to die at a constant rpm and running on less that 6 cylinders sometimes:eh:

is there any way to do the opposite on it? I wanna drop my wagon down so its nice and lowered. Can I do the same thing but instead of tightening it, can I loosen it? If I do that, how much should it drop? My wagon is a 79 with a 1600 in it

you shouldn't be getting really any juice for the alternator from the battery except to help power the field. The alternator supplies juice to the battery aka. charging it and helping maintain your luxuries (ie - radio, a/c, heater fan, etc.) So your alternator was getting hot? Hmmm maybe you should have your alternator checked by AutoZone for free. It sounds like your alternator is starting to die a bit by overcharging or somewhere in the charging system is drawing too much amperage. Check your battery cables too for amount of resistance with a DVOM. You said that you just rebuild your disty. Maybe you should check the wiring coming off of it for any shorts of some sort because if there is a short somewhere, this could be why your alternator is getting hot.

yeah, how did you do that???

I was planning on doing a cold air induction on my wagon. I was gonna use some exhaust tubing and have it bent at a muffler shop. So yes you can do it, but you have to figure out where the bends are gonna be and what size you want, etc. Then just buy a K&N filter and pop it on the front of it