Caboobaroo

The exhaust ports have a bit more metal in them as the most common issue is the coolant jacket to crack into the exhaust port.

I don't:brow:

Search... All the info for coil overs on these cars has been covered.

I've got a few things I can bring as well. EJ22T radiator, misc EA82 coupe parts and more. Even got a couple 14" 6x140mm wheels:brow:

I've been in contact with Whiteline and they might be willing to do a group buy on front and rear swaybars for EA82s and XT/6s. Not sure on cost as of yet but I'm waiting to hear back from them on how much for a group buy of 10 sets. I'm looking for 22mm front and 20mm rear which should be pretty much the beefiest swaybars you would want to put on one of these cars. They should also come with the correct bushings for installation as well but thats another question I sent to them in my last email. Who would be interested in a set? I will update this thread when I finally hear back. I will also note, the shop I work for (All Wheel Drive Auto) is a authorized Whiteline dealer so if there might be anything else someone wants, feel free to PM me! 1. Caboobaroo - 1 set (F&R) 2. obk25xt - 1 set (F&R) - USMB 3. rploz - 1 set (F&R) - SubaruXT 4. Tractor pole - 1 set (F&R) - USMB 5. Turbone - 1 set (F&R) - USMB 6. Natext6 - 1 set (F&R) - SubaruXT 7. KRM91 - 1 set (F&R) - USMB 8. Wentz912 - 1 set (F&R) - USMB 9. Wayback - 1 set (F&R) - USMB 10. 92_rugby_subie - 1 set (F&R) - USMB 11. Kingbobdole - 1 set (F&R) - SubaruXT 12. Huck369 - Front only - SubaruXT

Seeing as the weather has been nice and the XT6 is pretty much completed minus some exhaust welding and reinstalling some of the interior, I decided it was time to get this beast into my garage. Pretty much threw some front suspension in it to make it rollable. My roomate pulled it up the driveway with his Lexus 4.0 V8 powered '90 4Runner and then I rolled it back into the garage. Since this project is going to take me awhile, I'm going to start by removing all the suspension and do a complete undercoat on the car before I get started on the bodywork. Oh and I love rust free cars. This chassis has 250k roughly on it and no rust whatsoever:brow: unlike the first one I had...

Its a very common issue for the fans to fail and when "tapped", can come back on. At this point, I would suggest replacing the motor as it is servicable by itself so no need for the blades or cage.

Usually about 3.5 - 4 quarts will come out of the transmission during the drain and fill procedure. I always start with 3.5 quarts on ALL Subaru automatics, let it run at idle in neutral until the cooling fans have cycled a couple times. You can also drive the car to get the transmission fluid up to temp as well. Once the fluid is warm, then add until its at the full HOT dot.

Shoot me a text message with what engine parts you're needing.

Seeing te alignment was finished, I drove the car home from the shop on Sunday and realized there was another thing that needs some attention. I knew the steering rack bushings were pretty bad but now that I have the front end where I want it, its much more noticable. The fix? Whiteline Impreza '93-'01 rack bushings which should be here in the next few days. I'm also going to be emailing Whiteline to see if they might be able to make me some larger swaybars for it.....

Also make sure to check the thickness of the rotors. Discard spec for those is .866" and usually you can turn them once before they need to be replaced unless its gone metal to metal. Brake pads I usually replace at 2mm thickness but recommend doing them at 4mm. I use Akebono brand pads at work as those are pretty much a standard OE replacement pad. Remember, the cheaper the pads, the worse the braking performance and they can also make noise.

Yes the pads changed for '03 I believe. Same goes for the WRXs as they use the same brake pads as the Outbacks.

My boss recently bought a '12 Outback 3.6R and it's a blast to drive. I was skeptical at first due to the CVT as I have some experience with the Justy CVT but after driving his and other customer cars, they're pretty sweet. I also have not heard of any issues with them yet from customers, just the little I have found online. They also have an electronic parking brake instead of a mechanical handle.

Then you will need to check the shift lever that the linkage is held onto with the double roll pin. Almost sounds like it could be the shifter rod in the tail shaft housing has broken the ear off that pulls back on 2, 4 and R shift levers.

If it was me, I would pack them with a quality wheel hearing grease, reinstall the plastic sleeve until the hub goes in. I usually use the hub to press the plastic sleeve out.

Woo lots done but still a few things left. Got the car down to the shop today, cranked up the stereo and started rocking out. First, I got the brakes bled better then I did before and it seems to stop better. Don't think I'm going to upgrade the master cylinder to the large SVX one I have but instead get a 1" bore diameter for it. I think the larger one will go into the RX project when I get the Brembos sorted out. I then got the parking brake cables routed and mounted properly, installed the SPC adjustable radius rods with the polyurethane Whiteline bushings and then aligned it. She's now has the same specs as a factory STi Seeing as the shifter bushings blew apart shortly after I got the car back from Rob, I got a new set from the dealer and installed those today as well. It's so much nicer being able to know which gear you're in instead of playing the "Oh it feels like it might be in 3rd" game. I still need to get the few items I need to install the muffler and then the interior needs to be finished but other then that, she'll be ready for WCSS this year. One I get settled back in Portland next summer, I will be fixing the body and then fully repaint the whole car:headbang: I hope by then I can find a JDM rear window and wiper for it because it would go great with the JDM decals I will have made:-p

I think it's going to be a linkage issue. Internally, 2,4 and R don't use the same shifter rods once you get down inside the case. Since I just finished doing shifter bushings on my XT6, I'm now very familiar with the stock linkage of the car. So check the shift linkages to make sure they're tight and check the shifter bushings to make sure they haven't split and come out, leaving the barrels empty.

Got a new Magnaflow muffler for Scarlett earlier this week from Summit Racing. I'm hoping this weekend I will be able to get it installed and finish up a few things like the larger master cylinder install and alignment. I did get the speakers replaced and rewired in the car though, along with recovering the rear deck lid piece in suede. Stereo sounds much nicer but while pulling the inside plastics to run the wiring, I realized she's got a few clips missing. No need to worry though, dug through my "junk drawer" in my toolbox and found some brand new clips:headbang: I've also been looking at changing the wheels up to an 18x7 up to a 18x8 for the car but haven't really come across any that I like, besides some BBS LMs but a set of those are roughly $2500

Intake, exhaust and Cobb Accessport would be my top 3 on those cars.

So I now have a couple different engine options readily available. I have procured a EJ205 shortblock with under 100k miles in good shape from a '02 WRX. I may have also procured a EJ257 shortblock with under 60k with a slight rod knock, both of which are free. I also picked up a set of ARP headstuds and a '04 WRX wiring harness. Thinking I might do a EJ205/257 hybrid for this car as I already have some of the parts. I also have an EJ257 header, a low mileage TD04, Perrin divorced catless downpipe, and a few other things for this build. Most of these parts will be used to make it a running car before I start to really upgrade it. I will probably use the 205 in order to get the wiring worked out and then use the 257 shortblock down the road after a rebuild. I just finished up a 500+whp EJ257 for my roommate's '05 STi so I have a bit of experience now with building higher horsepowered EJ engines:headbang:

4wd rear shocks are quite different in length compared to the 2wd. I would try to replace the rear springs with 4wd ones first. Should get the butt up in the air for ya:headbang:

You can also get a check engine light on due to a cooling fan irrationallity when they get low on coolant. I've seen it a few times when the head gaskets are blown and sucks the coolant down.

I ran 185/80R13 tires on my '78 Brat that was slammed to the ground. Didn't have any rubbing issues though I did burn through the rear set in 2 months..... RWD Brat FTW!

I hate to be that guy but GD isn't right on this one. The '00 and up Legacys and Outbacks use a bearing assembly which is held into the rear knuckles with 4 - 14mm bolts from the back side. Remove the wheel, brake caliper and rotor, remove the 32mm axle nut, the 4 - 14mm bolts on the back side and it should come out. Most of the ones I've done, do not come out very easily. I then just partially thread two of the four rear bolts back in and smack an extension with a 14mm socket on it with a hammer. Now some of the aftermarket bearings for these cars don't have the hub in them (some of them do but the NTN's I put in my '04 did not have the hubs) so I had to press the old hub out of the old bearing and into the new one.

Specs? Thats the only way we know whats going on...