Caboobaroo

Check under the carpet behind the rear seats. There should be an access plate on the passenger side with 4 bolts in it. remove them and you should see the fuel pump assembly sticking out of the tank.

Check the lower control arm bushings. They may look good but I'm willing to bet the rubber is starting to split and they will puke the oil out shortly there after.

I had my '87 GL 3-door dynoed a few years ago and it did 68whp running a bone sock EA82 SPFI and a RX dual range 5-speed. Not bad as factory spec is 91chp.

I use a long 10mm ratcheting wrench with a flex head on one end. I have also found it to be easier with the engine subframe removed (I had to replace mine after a small ditch incident and the other half) but since mine wasn't leaking I just tightened them all up. I also go from underneath but the car is also up on a lift too. You can also try to loosen the subframe, remove the engine mount nuts and lift the engine up a bit to give you more clearance. First set of EZ30 valvecover gaskets I did, I did that trick.

I used a Paraut disc and reused the PP and resurfaced the flywheel. Not entirely the proper way to do it but it seems to be fine. My disc was worn out but the PP surface looked good still. Got mine through WorldPac.

Steve, there's a guy in the classifieds selling off lots of FF1s in New Mexico.

For the evap leaks, it could also be as easy as a bad gas cap. For the P1518, I'm willing to bet its a manual transmission car. This is a very common code to be stored (not to prompt the CEL) when the clutch pedal isn't pressed in far enough to initially start the vehicle.

I had one of the Harbor Freight special torque wrenches at it worked decent. Finally broke it after 8 years of abuse and then I decided to go with the full digital Snap-On 1/2" drive torque wrench. I use it for head gasket jobs as well which is why I spent over $500 on it but its already paid for itself in my industry. If you're in a pinch, HF has a decent one but I would check out the ones at Sears first.

Over the weekend I got most of the suspension and brake upgrades done on my XT6. Now I'm running the following parts list: '91 Legacy front axles '96 Impreza front knuckles with new wheel bearings KYB AGX front struts (4 way adjustable dampening!) Front '04 WRX pads, calipers and rotors Agency Power stainless steel brake lines on all 4 corners Rear '04 WRX pads, calipers and rotors Leather wrapped 2.5RS parking brake handle I still have a set of SPC adjustable radius rods to install, along with some Whiteline radius rod bushings and the rear parking brake bits, then the interior goes back together. I plan on doing the rest of that at the shop next weekend before I slap it up on the alignment rack and get the numbers I want! Hooray for full front/rear camber/caster/toe adjustments!

This has been addressed several times. Searching is always your best bet and when in doubt, check out the USRM. Here's a thread I made a few years ago with different variations to the setup but there are specific parts needed from an XT6 to make it work. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50400

Once I remove the transmission, remove the front diff housing, then I take the preloaded caps off the sides and count the amount of turns while I'm unthreading it. I put them back in the same spot and have never had an issue *knocks on wood*. The carrier takes a bit of Tetris work to remove it from the housings once the caps are off, then press the old bearings off, new ones on and reinstall.

Line pressure solenoid? The transmission is going to have some damage to the valvebody and the electrical just inside the pan. Drop the pan and look for whats damaged and start there.

If the system is low enough, the compressor won't even come on.

I've seen a few where the carrier bearings (the ones on the front diff) make noise and need to be replaced. Verify that the noise is coming from the front diff housing before you tear the trans apart to replace them. If you have a mechanical mind, they're not too bad to do but a press would need to be used to remove and install the bearings onto the carrier assembly.

Unless you're prepared to do the valve adjustment with $$$ in mind (I've seen the one on CL you're talking about), you might as well buy one thats still assembled.

I usually cross rotate the front tires to the rear (LF -> RR, RF -> LR) and move the rear tires straight forward (LR -> LF, RR -> RF). I usually do it on a rack but I have done it in my garage with a jack and a pair of jackstands. Takes awhile but it can be done. Wheel lugnut torque is 80 lbs-ft.

I'm gonna be there with my other half. I will be driving my '89 XT6 and she'll be driving our other 6... '04 Outback sedan 3.0:banana: I've been to 5, 6, 9, 10, 11, and 12. Missed last year as I started having a CTS issue the day we were supposed to leave and I didn't feel comfortable driving it that far like that:banghead: All is well now... Just need to get the brakes and suspension done:horse:

I think we charge an hour for labor for each side but I also clean and adjust the parking brake up while I'm in there. Timken bearings are not as good as they used to be. Same name, different part quality:Flame:

The rear bearing on the '05 (assuming that was the one making noise), are bolt in style which is great as there is no pressing needed. Just unbolt the caliper, slide the rotor off, remove the axle nut and the 4 bolts holding into the knuckle from the back and pop it out. Usually they require a bit of "motivation" to come out but the do eventually:horse:

Since I own a 3.0, I will try and get some pics this coming weekend. Plugs aren't hard, at least not as hard as replacing the valve cover gaskets. Just need to take your time with each one, don't try and rush yourself, you'll get more frustrated. I use a 5/8" spark plug socket, a 1 1/2" extension, a short 6pt 18mm socket, a deep 6pt 18mm socket and a 3" extension.

Why wouldn't you do the caster correct by getting adjustable radius rods? I just bought a pair, granted they were $130 shipped but I wasn't complaining. Oh and you do know if you 5-lug it, you can get camber adjustment with the EJ struts and knuckles.... That crossmember is a bit scary...

I use a 3/8" drive long handled ratchet with a deep 18mm socket on the 5/8" spark plug socket. I also use a 1 1/2" long extension to help get the spark plug socket on and off the plugs. This is after having the whole air box removed for the passenger side and with the battery removed on the driver side. I've actually found it easier to get everything out from the bottom on the driver side but I have the car up on a lift over my head.

I use a tub of Valvoline red grease. Works well for a lot of different uses like lubricating head bolts, valve cover grommet seals, cam and crank seals and as an assembly lube on cams and such. I've done probably more wheel bearings on Subarus then I care to remember. Just finished up one on a '99 Forester today. Never have I had an issue with it "blowing the seals out" or any other ill effects. I use OEM bearings which do come apart and are "servicable" but really I pull them apart, pack them with new grease and install them.

Well the '00 and up Legacys and Outbacks have bolt in wheel bearing assemblies in the rear so I believe the last one I did for that era was around $500 after tax. The '05 and up bearing assembly houses the ABS tone ring and a new hub but they are roughly $300 retail. The '00-'04 don't have the hub or the ABS tone ring as the tone ring is still located on the axle shaft. Even though the '00-'04 and '05 up look the same, THEY ARE NOT THE SAME! Installing the older one into a '05 and up will result in damage to the rear ABS sensor. Now if you're talking about for Blue, it's a press in style so parts are cheaper but labor is more. Since I don't deal with the pricing aspect, I want to say a new wheel bearing installed after tax was about the same price as the bolt in style but don't quote me on that entirely:-p If you can remove and install the knuckle yourself, you can take it to a shop and have them press in a new bearing. Remember, the new bearing will have assembly grease in it which will not last as long as regular wheel bearing grease. All wheel bearings that are a press in style I always pack them before I install them to make sure they stay lubricated. If need be, I can help step you through the knuckle removal on your peticular car:D