Caboobaroo

Running a bad wheel bearing will run the risk of damaging not only the hub, but the brake rotor, caliper, ABS tone ring and ABS sensor. Last time I checked, a new ABS sensor was almost $200 from the dealer. A new hub is in the neighborhood of $130 and so on. I've had customers that had other shops tell them it was ok to run it a bit longer but what people don't tell you is when it will finally grenade. As a mechanic, I don't have a crystal ball that tells me when it's going to break so I always tell the customer, the sooner you do it, the better it is for your peace of mind and your vehicle. I feel like I'm though

A bad wheel bearing, I bet $20 it is. If the car is under 100,000 miles, I believe the dealer will warranty them as it is a very well known issue for them to make noise. Replaced at least a few dozen of them at the shop.

Earl, here's the link to the thread on the XT board. http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12126 I still haven't had a chance to get pics of mine yet as it rarely sees the light of day. Usually sits in the garage looking pretty:o

Exactly what he said but I will add, the carrier bearing mount is located inside the transmission tunnel just behind the front seats.

Ok, a flashing check engine means there is a cylinder misfire. Should have a code like P0300 (multiple cylinder misfire), P0301, P0302, P0303, or P0304 which is a specific cylinder misfire (cylinder 1, 2, 3, 4). It will help us further diagnose the issue to know the code though. Now it is a known issue that the coil pack terminals corrode inside the ends of the spark plug wires. Since the coil pack is right on top, start by disconnecting one at a time, looking for any signs of corrosion. It's a common issue, I actually had the end break off of one a few days ago while I was checking them. If it turns out to be the issue, sometimes the coil pack can be saved but other times, the corrosion gets so bad it eats the terminal and doesn't give you a good connection. I use red scotch brite to clean up the terminals before I put new plug wires on. It will not kick on a check engine light unless the corrosion is bad enough but it can lead to run ability issues.

Also, the head gaskets could be leaking from the back of the head onto the rack. Had a couple come in that other shops misdiagnosed as a leaking rack when it was actually the head gasket leaking oil.

I'm almost positive that the legacy driveline will work but the EA82 will not.

I have found that after '87, EA82 cars had a spot for the carrier bearing mount even if 2WD. I could be mistaken though as its been awhile since I did my last swap.

Gary, have you checked the caliper for looseness? It seems to be pretty common that the slides get a bit loose because the grease solidifies in the caliper bracket, which can cause the caliper to bounce more then usual. Once the wheel is yarded off, grab ahold of the caliper and see if it moves and might be the cause of the noise. Since you're in there, also check the condition of the pads to help eliminate variables.

I actually work for that shop! Yes, if the belt guard has been tightened up improperly, it can put pressure on the return line fitting on top of the pump and cause air to enter the system. I don't currently have an '05 at the shop for me to look at but I believe the setup changed a bit in '05 as they went to a complete plastic engine cover but there is still a bracket on top of the alternator that is in the way when replacing the belts and I'm almost certain it bolts to the return line fitting.

have you checked the vacuum lines going to the turbo? Make sure all of the exhaust bolts are tight? Intake piping bolted down?

Thats negative camber. Unless something is loose, I don't see why it wouldn't hold. Done a few EA82 alignments in the rear (2 of mine, Turbone's RX and a few others) and never had an issue with them not staying.... I'm interested in this, whatever you find out please let us know!

Apparently we have to guess at what car this is in since you failed to give us that much. Now if it has a VSS mounted in the transmission, I'm willing to bet it didn't get plugged back in, which is why its staying in 1st and nothing is working. Location of the VSS depends on the year of the vehicle. Check the passenger side of the transmission for a plug, probably going to be near the firewall.

I think I'm gonna play in here too! My 1987 GL 3-door that I built. Basically an RX but without the EA82T My 1989 XT6 that is the hotness:drunk: With Turbone's RX at WCSS11 and with my newest car, 2004 Outback 3.0 Limited sedan

Umm why do you say this? The EJ25D ('97-'99 to be more specific) blow head gaskets INTERNALLY where as the '00 and up fail externally. If you use something better then the OEM single layer coated head gaskets, they last much longer. I use Six Star MLS head gaskets at work and only time I see them fail is due to improper installation or the customer over heats the car due to a bad hose or radiator. I myself, do close to 3 head gasket jobs a week, upwards of 15 in my shop for one week depending. I would rather go with the '00 and up 2.5 over the earlier EJ25D personally.

Part number 31361AA000 should be the correct part number for the seal you're looking for. I happen to use Opposed Forces a lot at work so I know my way around it. Hopefully that's what you needed!

Got the rest of the parts I needed to finish my rear WRX brake swap on my XT6 today. I have all the WRX rear parking brake hardware, new shoes, cables, brake lines from an Outback, and a leather wrapped ebrake handle from a 2.5RS that is now mounted in the car (did that last night). Hoping to get it finished up so I can get the front parts swapped around:banana:

Unless they've blown internally like the EA25D (DOHC 2.5 from '97-'99), then they leak externally. Only way to know if its an internal issue is to do a compression and leak down tests to verify. They are known for dropping exhaust valve guides which holds the exhaust valves open. Drop the exhaust manifold off, take a flash light and look inside the exhaust ports. the guides should only stick out of the heads about 1/8" or so. If they are out any further, then you've got a dropped guide and the heads has to be gone through. If you do one side, might as well do the other side while you're at it.

Hondasucks had a '82 sedan 2wd auto he converted to a dual range 4 speed as his "4x4". Don't know if he still has it though...

Yup, WCSS9, I lost my second job at Home Depot because they didn't give me time off so I went. Wasn't too important for me to have that job, just extra money. WCSS10, I ended up losing my job at Les Schwab because the assistant manager approved my time off but the head manager did not and I wasn't informed until AFTER I got back. WCSS11 I was working two jobs again and ended up quitting my second job right before the show.

sell it to me? Trade you for a black RX with a complete 5-lug conversion but no drivetrain....

Pull the passenger side rear wheel and inspect the fuel filler neck. Pinholes from rust can cause the same code as well.

Check your fuel filler neck to see if its rusted out. A small hole in the filler neck can cause a P0442 code. Basically the fuel system isn't pressurizing up fully which is kicking the code on. If you take off the passenger side rear wheel, you'll be able to get decent access to the filler neck to inspect it.

Try replacing the fuel cap. A P0457 indicates a small evap leak and usually that's the cause of it. Check engine light, depending on the codes, will also trigger the cruise control light to flash and the cruise will be inoperative. I have also seen small evap leaks from the charcoal canister area as well. Check the brake master cylinder level, if its low, top it up and see if the light goes out. I have seen it where the float that controls the switch in the master cylinder can get cockeyed in the master cylinder causing it to stick in the down position, leaving the light on.

Would you be willing to build something like this for an ER27 in a XT6?