Caboobaroo

Don't use the Dayco belt. Had an 09 Forester that had its belt done by someone else and it broke 15k miles later. After 4 new valves, head gaskets, timing components (I will never use subpar parts on customer vehicles), it cost his $3500 because someone else could do the timing belt cheaper.

It's probably internal to the head unit itself. They, and the radio, are known to have isues with unusual problems. Best bet is to either find yourself a used head unit or Subaru does sell remand units with a core charge. All they need to know is the model number, which is on the trim.

Fix the issue with the check engine light first. The first generation EZ30D have known issues with the throttle position sensor and the harness for it as well. Under easy acceleration, it can feel like a stumble real quick before it gets out of the trouble area. My car used to hesitate right about 2600 RPM in any gear. I installed new front and rear oxygen sensors, new intake air temp sensor, new spark plugs, and a few other things. Once I could graph the TPS voltage line, it showed me the issue. Since I replaced both the TPS and harness, I've had no issues since.

You say you're getting a code? Let me guess, p0519. If that's the case, is the car a manual? If so, I'm willing to bet you have a neutral safety switch going back.

The connector that went to the original 3AT shifter needs a jumper wire. It should be a 6 pin connector with two larger wires (black and black/yellow?) that need to be jumped together. I put a jumper wire in with a couple spade terminals and wrapped it up with electrical tape.

The connector that went to the original 3AT shifter needs a jumper wire. It should be a 6 pin connector with two larger wires (black and black/yellow?) that need to be jumped together. I put a jumper wire in with a couple spade terminals and wrapped it up with electrical tape.

They must go back into the original locations as they're line bored to match the heads. They should have a stamping on the top of them, something like I3, E6, I4, E2 with an arrow pointing toward the front of the engine. The number is what cylinder they go to and the I means intake, E means exhaust for what cam they are matched to.

Grab ahold of the wiper arms and check for slop in the linkage. It usually causes the same issue are you're describing. I've heard of a cheap fix for them by just replacing the plastic sockets the linkage ends snap into but I personally just replace the linkage.

Like it was said before, cable forks are different then hydraulic forks. They also tend to be a bit bigger then the hydraulic forks.

When you remove the VVT blocks (4 - 10mm bolts), you will see the screen on the inside. It's made of plastic with a mesh screen so be careful. I use a pair of needle nose pliers and grab it by one of the tabs that stick up. Clean it out with brake cleaner, some compressed air and you're ready to go.

I usually take them apart and clean them real well. My local machine shop also does a really nice clean up job on them but that's when the heads are in getting a resurface. If it has variable valve timing (2006 and newer), the blocks that house the solenoids need to be removed from the heads. There are tiny screens inside of them which hold a lot of metal.

Stay away from a fix in a bottle. It can actually lead to plugged radiators, plugged heater cores and more. If it has a bad head gasket, the easiest and best thing to do is replace it. No magic in a bottle solution will help but in fact make it harder on yourself. I've done hundreds of Subaru head gaskets with OEM or SIX Star. I've never been a fan of Fel Pro head gaskets as I've seen too many failures with them.

The extra cavity on the back of the turbo block is a crank case breather. My ER27 has the same one. Having run a nonturbo block in an EA82T setup, not ideal to run without. It can cause blow by and other ring/land issues. The piston appears to be a SPFI piston or possibly an EA81 piston. The MPFI pistons had a slight valve relief in them, the carbed had a bit more relief and the turbo has a dish. It's been awhile since I've played with an EA82T as I've moved on to bigger engines.

The garnish is the trim piece on the hatch that says "Subaru", which also holds the inner brake lights and reverse lights.

The garnish is the trim piece on the hatch that says "Subaru", which also holds the inner brake lights and reverse lights.

My guess is going to be the clutch disc is past it's wear limit. Any issues with it before it stopped moving?

This is a common problem on 2000-2004 Legacy and Outback wagons. The center garnish ends up filling with water running down the hatch. You can either put a bead of silicone between the rubber gasket of the window and the top of the garnish. YOU can also pull out the garnish and lay silicone all the way around where the front and back plastic sections of the garnish meet. Check the sockets for melting or corrosion and replace if nessessary. If they are badly melted inside, it can cause some decent electrical gremlins.

Is it leaking from the hose or from the fitting into the radiator? I've had aftermarket Koyo radiators leak from the fitting straight out of the box. I now make sure they're tight before installing. If it's coming from the hose, you might want to replace it with either an aftermarket hose or one from the dealer. Also, I highly am against anything except a factory hose clamp.

It snaps into the fan housing. There's a release tab on the right side of the bottle you need to press in oder for the bottle to come out.

How did you test the TPS? Whats the voltage at idle with the key on engine off? It sounds like it's not adjusted properly.

Plugs needs to be replaced every 30k miles. Once they are worn, they can cause misfires under load, or "bucking" during acceleration.

That would be the hole you need to drill and tap.

The M16x1.5 is for the earlier EJ engines. I actually just finished this myself on an engine. Drilled the hole to 7/8", hand started a M20x1.5 tap.

And according to my local dealer, there's no more XT6 pressure plates left. Luckily I have a few spare XT6 fywheels, discs and pressure plates in my stash :-)

Did you replace the MAF with an OEM Subaru part or a cheap one from a parts house? More likely then not, it's a bad aftermarket MAF. the misfire codes can be related but the EGR code (probably a P0400) is not related.