Caboobaroo

Make sure the ball joint and tie rods on that side don't have any play. If they check out (no movement) then check the tire for abnormal spots on it. Could be a separated tire which would cause vibration and weird wear (a raised spot on the tire where the plys of the tire have come apart from each other). If it also seems to not be separated, then go get an alignment. If anything, the alignment shop should be able to figure it out. At minimum, its a positive camber issue which also would cause the vehicle to pull that direction.

Screens were introduced in '05, mainly STis and Legacy GTs got them. They got rid of the screen right around 2008. Easiest way to tell if you could possibly have the screens is the banjo bolts on the AVCS and the turbo feed line have humps on top of them, to allow more room for the screen. Remove the bolt, remove the screen, replace the crush washers and reinstall the bolt.

Put some new head gaskets in it and keep driving it. The head bolts don't have to be replaced but the key is to make sure they're properly torqued and to use a good quality head gasket.

I've seen the issue once before and its a harness problem. Either replace the harness with a new one or find where the issue is and fix it. Or deal with it until you get rid of it IF you do.

I picked up a one owner, 2004 Outback SUS 3.0 Limited. Its not a VDC or a L.L. Bean but I traded in my fiancee's '09 Hyundai Sonata Limited for it. Paid a bit more then I wanted to but it has 96k miles and has never been in an accident and is a very clean car, especially underneath. No oil leaks but there is some maintenance stuff I had to take care of, plus a few minor things. I love that car and for you to find a 3.0 for $5k.... Wow, I should go get it to swap it into my XT6:D

I'm running my Enkeis on my XT6 currently but had them on my '87 RX too. Enkei RPF1s 17x8, 45mm offset, running 215/45R17 Toyo Proxes 4s. On my XT6, the tires have barely rubbed on the rear springs under HARD cornering. Just enough to take the paint off over time. On the RX, they did almost the same thing to the springs as they did the ones on my XT6 which makes sense, same track width as an EA82. Now I also had the right rear tire rub on the inside of the quarter panel so I rolled it a bit, did it not as bad. Only under hard left cornering though. My fixes? I'm getting a different set of wheels for my XT6 (found a set of BBS LM replica 18x8 38mm offset for $500:banana:) as I have lots of room it the rear fender wells to offset them out a bit. If i decide to ever track it though, I will use the Enkeis with a small 3mm spacer. The RX is getting box flares to fit wider tires for track days when I finish it someday:lol:

I think the best way to even run this engine would be a Mega Squirt setup with an EDIS add on. They can be fairly easy to tune yourself and you might be able to find different maps to download to run on your car, like a "factory" setting. This makes it completely tunable and gets rid of that pesky distributor so more room for that second turbo:brow:

Sure sounds good to me Doug. The crazy ideas I've had for your lifter situation. If you could gut the hydraulic lifters and make them solid, then chuck them into a metal lathe, turn some metal off the base, you could run a shim under lifter setup fairly easy. Only problem with making the cam box part of the head is then you can't get into the lifters to service them. Also came up with an idea to make a steel girder that cross braces the box, and along the edges, which has holes that line up with the bolt to hold the box to the head. Just a few random thoughts I came up with:banana:

Good thing I got mine back in the garage last weekend. I would be heartbroken if mine was stolen. Good luck man, hope you get it back in one piece.

This^^^^ In 1996, the Outback and Legacy were the same height but the Outback was labeled as such, had two tone and better interior options I believe.

Wow Doug, I can't wait until this thing roars to life. I've been watching the thread the whole time and it makes me excited. For those questions you asked, here's my professional opinion. You will probably want to run dual MAFs or see if you can build a single blow through setup. This I would think would help cut down on piping for the intake as a whole. If space allows, run two smaller intercoolers like an Audi twin turbo, down in front of the front tires behind the bumper is where they placed theirs. Next time I get ahold of an EA82 cam case, I will see if there might be something that can be done to help strengthen them up.

Had to make an emergency trip to Portland from Seattle on Saturday and saw a nice Brat. Heading north on I5 just a few miles north of Vancouver, EA81, dark blue in color, lifted with possible 6 lug chrome wheels. Was before noon on Saturday.

I would be interested in a set of EA82 fenders and hood if you do them!

Complete EJ257 and 6mt prices please. Apparently my boss tried to get ahold of you through your website a few months ago but there was no reply. We are an independent Subaru repair facility in Kirkland, WA and we do a lot of engine work. I will see if he can email you again but his email address is Justin@allwheeldriveauto.com

I've found that the grease that is in the new bearings are usually more of an assembly lube which doesn't last as long. Personally, I use Valvoline red grease at work and pack the wheel bearings with it before they get assembled.

How many miles on the vehicle? How many engine gaskets have been replaced? On vehicles that have had a either regular petroleum based oil or a blend oil, typically will start to leak worse if its changed to a full synthetic. Did this on the engine I had swapped into my '87 coupe. Started leaking worse after 10k miles, to the point where I was having to add oil every 2k miles. Doesn't make sense to use such expensive oil on a vehicle that's going to leak it all out. Solution is to do a complete reseal and start fresh.

The fingers on the pressure plate broke. I've seen two different '07 Imprezas with that same issue come into my shop both with broken pressure plates. The throw out bearing basically has stuck into the pressure plate which is why the pedal went to the floor.

I got mine from Snap-On and actually I don't really know where else to get one personally.....

Its either a 21mm or a Torx T70. I know this as I do fluid services on Subarus all the time. Front diff capacity is roughly 2.5 pints.

The 4EAT to 5 speed swap is a bit more complex when it comes the wiring over the 3AT to 5 speed swap. I've done both but I put a push button start in the car that had the 4EAT, and was only powered when the key was held in the run position.

One of the downfalls with the design Subaru went with on the doors and window frames. With more wind, it catches the top of the door and forces down past the seal, which is why it gets worse with a cross wind. The window frame acts as a scoop around the top. Just speculating....

That is totally rad! That's what I've been wanting for my offroader and it's in Portland too. Sometime next year, my XT6 and my RX will be rolling around down there too:headbang:

I couldn't have said it better myself. After Xact closes, sounds like we will be using C&D Machine in Totem Lake. I wasn't very happy with the last set I got back from them though but we will see. My boss also has been talking about buying some of Brad's equipment so we can do in house machine work:slobber:

The ones in my XT6 still work flawlessly. Wait, now that I said that I bet I jinxed myself:-\