Caboobaroo

Drain the front diff, should be either a 21mm OR a Torx T70. No issues with doing that, just don't drive it very long. The reason why it takes so much fluid is because a fully drained transmissions can take 8 quarts or so to get it full. Checking the fluid should be in neutral, engine running at idle and warm. Just add fluid to the transmission a bit at a time until it get to the full level.

Well I just found out that Brad is closing his shop and moving to Montana to retire at the end of March...

There should be three seals in total. The outer grease seal, inner grease seal, and inner dust seal. The outer one can only be replaced by pressing the hub in and out of the bearing. The inner grease seal should fit into the notch closest to the wheel bearing. It should have an inner diameter that slides over the smooth machined spot on the end of the axle which should be noticeable. Then the dust seal is installed on top of the inner grease seal, in a notch higher up. If installed the wrong way, this can lead to the dust seal failing and eventually let mother nature in quicker. Install it facing away from you if it's the proper seal I'm taking of.

I can get a few pics tomorrow when I get the diff housing back together. I also have the transfer case housing off as well.

What do you need? I'm not into the internals of the transmission, just replacing the front ring and pinion and the carrier bearings.

That or the separater plate to the right of it which are known for leaking on high mileaged engines.

Well you have to remember, that switch is where the power goes through first which is why you can turn the parking lights on and off without the car being on. If the switch is mechanically messed up, it can cause no connection which would give you no lights. Since I work on Subarus as a profession, I wouldn't recommend bypassing the switch but you can if you like. Might not be as easy as you think which is why I recommended replacing the switch first.

EA82Ts with autos starting in '88 could come with a 4EAT. I've had 2 cars with them. The 4EATs are a 25 spline, regardless of turbo/NA engine. All 3ATs had a 23 spline and manual NA transmissions had a 23 spline. All full time 4wd manual transmissions had a 25 spline, along with the '85 '86 part time 4wd dual range turbo transmissions. There's probably more variations but that should be it for the most part.

I remove the bolt that pinches the lower ball joint into the knuckle. Sometimes I can't either get the bolt out or it snaps so I remove the ball joint from the control arm. I get removing the control arm bolt at the crossmember in areas with lots of rust though.

I've used a regular floor jack and a piece of 2x4 lumber, usually about 6-8" long. I currently have a '00 4EAT disassembled on my bench at work and can get pics of anything you'd like. Oh and I've seen those hardlines bent on junkyard transmissions before:rolleyes:

If you remove the back portion of the transmission, after the driveline and exhaust have been removed, that houses the transfer clutch pack and the parking pawl will also be visible. Sounds like the linkage inside could be messed up somehow.

Only way to replace it is to remove the steering wheel and remove the switch from the column. You could also snip the wires for it down where they go up the column and wire them to a switch on the dash but that could be asking for more problems.

I'm using some for an Impreza on two cars. Not sure if they will go over the EA front strut but they go over the rear shocks.

I've looked into using one for a newer Subaru and it just won't fit. Even the adjustable ones won't work. Only option is to make one or to find one to modify to work.

Replace the switch on top of the column.

I have seen quite a few cheap, aftermarket axles causing noise and vibrations after install. I usually use OEM or Empi at work but have used OPParts axles before as well. Napa axles are usually the worst from my experience.

Because the DOJ cup isn't totally sealed, grease can get down into the splines on the transmission. The seal keeps the grease from getting any further from there, like out far enough to splatter all over the transmission. I have notice no real effects without it as most of them dont have them.

Before we had gotten serious ini our relationship, my fiancée had a PT loser that blew a head gasket so she traded it in on a 2009 Hyundai Sonata Limited. It was a nice car but I never really liked the way it drove. Since she was the second owner, it had a 60k warranty on it which we rolled over last year. Ever since I've been trying to convince her to get rid of it and get into another Subaru. Well I won that battle as I didn't want to work on the Hyundai so here's what we got her instead of the Hyundai! 2004 Subaru Legacy Outback 3.0 Limited sedan. Not a L.L. Bean or a VDC though. 95k miles, one owner and it's never been in an accident. Still got a few items to take care of but since we got it a week ago, I've replaced all the fluids and replace the serpentine belt, tensioner and idler. Still need to reboot the front axles and a few other small housekeeping items. Pics will come when I get them uploaded this weekend hopefully.

No prob Dunn. Always there to help:headbang:

I've been toying with the idea of doing a walk through on the EJ25s for awhile and was wondering if there is any want for something like that? Would it be a good addition to the USRM? Since I do at least one a week at work, I was thinking about documenting them with pictures and post up a full write up on them, along with parts that are used. Jus a thought.....

Was it a bugeye? If it was, then it's my buddy's car. I can pass along the sighting to him!

There shouldn't be a gasket but rather grey silicone but I think some earlier EJs had gas,to, can't recall for sure. Anyways, unbolt the exhaust, unbolt the engine mounts from the crossmember, unbolt the pitch stopper, and lift the engine. Pan will come out fairly easy once the engine is up far enough. If I was doing it in my garage, I would use the rafters, a come along and some chain, then put a jack under the front diff of the transmission.

There were still issues with them leaking coolant. From what I've seen, they leak oil sooner then the earlier EJ253 head gaskets but then take longer to leak coolant. When they do start to leak coolant, it won't be slow, more like a drip.

Let me know if you need coupe specific parts. I have some random stuff around from interior to lights

Call your dealer and get it in ASAP. You could possibly have an engine issue and it needs to be looked at before it gets worse.