Caboobaroo

The tapered one is for the swaybar and the regular one is for the u-joint.

His board name is kingbobdole and he's over on the subaruxt.com board. He's currently running an EZ30 and is fwd. He still has it:Flame: Only reason why I know is because I lived in Laramie for a few years. I miss it out there sometimes....

I know of a guy that could get it aligned up for you with your swap.

Have the head gaskets been replaced yet?

Funny I should see this thread again. Replaced both front and rear pumps today on a '99 Legacy L. Best way to diagnose if you have a bad pump? Disconnect the plug(s) from the pump(s) and use a test lit or a multimeter to check for continuity. Have a friend operate the pump switches from inside the car as it can make it easier. Once you determine that you have voltage, clean up the connectors and see if it works but more then likely the pump has gone out.

Ok it sounds like you might have a few issues. First off, the oil leak. Only way to know where it's coming from is to get underneath it up on some jacks to help pinpoint the source. Since its a '99, it probably still has a plastic separator plate on the back of the engine, which should be replaced with the updated steel one. The plastic warps and causes it to leak even after new silicone is applied. Or the head gaskets are leaking badly enough. Or the oil pan, or the oil pump, or or or.... The clutch judder is caused from uneven surfaces, like a warped brake rotor. So when the clutch was replaced, it's possible cheap parts were used which can cause a pretty bad judder. Other possibility is it wasn't broken in properly when it was replaced and it got hot. Without seeing the vehicle and proper diagnosis, this is only my perspective. The check engine light with a cylinder misfire code could be caused by a dropping valve guide. Seems to be pretty common. Other issues could be oil in the spark plug tube, corroded coil pack ends where the plug wires click on and possibly more. Just a few places you could start.

For the most pair it will be a walk in the park. All you'll want is the long block, from valve cover to valve cover and you can do any engine resealing at this point in time. Then just put the intake from the car it's going into along with the power steering alternator and A/C compressor on it and you're done. Always make sure to yard the radiator with the fans out first.

I like that pipe trick. Gonna try it at work next time I do some axle rebooting.

Drill a new hole and put a through bolt with a nut on the other end on it.

Check out the rules for emission testing and ages of vehicles. Vehicles over 25 years old do not need emissions testing in King County.

Yes they do exist and yes some of them came with an EA82T. The "Star Edition" I would gather is going to be a dealer specific edition not a FHI edition.

Ok since you are now talking about swapping in a manual transmission, do that swap first, get it buttoned up and then swap in the EJ. You will need a few things for the manual swap but it's very easy to do. You will need... Manual transmission Clutch kit, flywheel and the flywheel bolts, not the ones for the flex plate (AT cars) as they are shorter then the flywheel bolts Pedal cluster. Easy to remove and install if the steering column is removed as well Driveline as it is longer then the 4eat but is still longer then the 3at I believe Shifters, boot and interior trim if you care Crossmember Clutch cable Speedometer cable as it is different then the autos Gauge cluster, again if you care Only thing you will need to do electrically is put a jumper wire in the 6 pin plug (might be 8) that plugs into the stock auto shifter assembly on the two largest wires that go into it. These are for the neutral safety switch which is located in the shifter assembly. You can also run these two wires to a hidden switch for a "kill" switch if desired.

I would only run OEM or Empi axles on any older Subaru. I would only run OEM axles on all EJ cars. Seen way too many issues with aftermarket axles and vibrations.

Have you made sure the coolant temp sensor is still working properly? That's what I would replace first. Also check the connector on the harness for it as they can get corroded and cause the same issue.

Exactly. You will have to remove the caliper bracket with the rotor at the same time. Then you can attempt to remove the broken bolt with heat. I've removed a couple after I got the bracket out of the car. Just make sure to run a thread chaser through the threads and use some anti-seize when you reinstall.

I'm still local and can do the work. I even sell the head gasket kits through the shop I work for.

I actually work for an independent Subaru shop up in Kirkland called All Wheel Drive Auto. We can do a look over the vehicle to help determine what it would need and you can go from there.

Yes they do have drum brakes in the rear so you have to remove the drum to verify. Also, if you have another mode of transportation, you can take your rotors (if they are still thick enough) to a shop or sometimes some parts stores can turn them for you. You can technically pad slap it without having them turned but you will eventually glaze the rotors and your braking performance will become poor with longer stopping distance.

Not quite the frozen north my friend. Only has gotten to about 30 degrees here this winter. Pump just went out on you. It happens, I've replaced a few of them.

I work for an independent Subaru repair shop in Seattle and we sell complete headgasket kits for all Subarus. Check out http://WWW.allwheeldriveauto.com for details

It can cause hydroplaining and make the vehicle not handle properly. Also, get an alignment, probably needs to have the rear toe adjusted.

So the P0400 code is an EGR malfunction code. All the other codes need to be addressed before the EGR check system will see that its OK. So fix everything else and the EGR system should be fine.

Does it have any other codes stored or just the P0420 code? If not, its a good possiblility all the cleaners you ran through it could have caused one or both cats to collapse. Just some food for thought.

The shop I work for now sells full head gasket sets with the MLS gaskets. All the same stuff I would use on a customer car, you can buy as a kit and do it yourself.

I have found on the '05 and newer head gaskets don't last as long as the '00 - '04 before needing replacement as they start leaking oil sooner. Ive already replaced a few sets and they were all under 80k miles.