Caboobaroo

The dealer should have them and they're fairly cheap. I typically replace them one out of 10 headgasket jobs I do here at the shop.

The only differences in the first generation Legacy NA and turbo are very minor. The cam and crank sensors are swapped where they plug into the ECU and then you have to add in the boost control solenoid wiring, which is like 5 wires.

Gen 1s are a lot harder to lower then the gen 2s as the torsion bars are separate from the subframe tube instead of inside them like the gen 2s. You'll need to pull the rear wheels, remove the lock down bolts that are close to the outside of the torsion bars (out by the wheels) and I had to use an air hammer with a chisel bit to get mine out.

Shawn, I'm now looking for more blue EA82 coupe interior parts. Need rear seatbelts and trim pieces from an '88 or '89 as they had shoulder belts instead of all lap belts.

They should bolt in the same and should work but the TCU will still have the Sport Shift option.

I would be down for a set of headlights as well. I've been wanting a set for quite aw while now and would gladly pay for a set and to have you ship them over to me. Let me know what the price would be!

Yup. Had EA82 steels on it with 185/70R13 tires.

I pulled the front springs and bumpstops, then cranked the rear torion bars down all the way...... This was on my '78 Brat almost 10 years ago lol

Spark! How've you been? Its been awhile since we've heard from you. Whats new and exciting?

Sounds like the thermostat isn't opening. Its located in the housing on the bottom of the engine where the lower radiator hose connects. After the hose is off, its two 10mm bolts to get off and you'll see it. Make sure to use the OEM replacement and not one off the shelf from Auto Zone or Carquest.

Most aftermarket axles do come with pins but they're not usually as exact as the OEM ones. OEM axle pins are made to work over and over again (which is probably cut in a zig zag form) versus the aftermarket ones which are straight cut and squish more then compress.

If it was me, I would pull both belts and check the rollers with it that far apart to make sure I don't have one going bad.

Sorry I was late to the party but I found this out a couple years ago when I was doing rear brakes and had pads for the wrong calipers... Found it out AFTER I tore the whole brake system apart and had no car:Flame:

Yes they should be the same axles. If you have a torn boot, just reboot the OEM axle. Do not put an aftermarket one in as it can cause vibrations like an out of balance tire. Seen quite a few with vibrations and turned out to be an aftermarket axle. If its making noise, find a good used one and reboot it or get ready for a $400 axle from the dealer.

Sounds like a headgasket failure. The EJ25Ds or the DOHC 2.5 that is in your car have a history of having internal headgasket failure whereas the newer 2.5 SOHC engines have external headgasket failure. I'm willing to bet thats what the problem is, I see it quite often. I think we charge roughly $2500 for that particular job out the door. The shop I work for is called All Wheel Drive Auto and can be found on the web at http://www.allwheeldriveauto.com. We not only do service work but we also sell complete headgasket kits. The owner has done his research on the best parts to use, most of which is OEM.

Leave the fuel lines connected, disconnect the wiring harness, the cam/crank sensors and the throttle body coolant lines. There will also be a couple other sensors that need to be disconnected before you can move the manifold out of the way. Oh and the 8 bolts that bolt it to the heads. It will swing out of the way onto the driver side strut tower, just far enough out of the way to yard the engine out.

No... Just go to the dealer and spend the couple bucks to buy the correct ones. Many times have I seen aftermarket roll pins break off in the stubs while removing them, and that's using the correct tool! I actually have about a dozen of them in my toolbox at work and also keep new ones in stock.

I have lots of pics in my webshots folder. Search my board name on there and you'll come up with some of them.... I'm currently own my 37th, 38th and 39th Subaru:brow:

Since I work for an independent Subaru shop, I guess I can shed some light on the brake pad uneven wear. I typically see this when the brakes are OEM. Not a frozen slide, they just start to stick because the grease solidifies inside the caliper bracket. A new set of pads, turn the rotors and make SURE to clean the slides, inside of the caliper brackets and the pad hardware thats mounted on the caliper bracket. The other cause for the brake pads wearing unevenly is because the ends of the pads will stick in the hardware mounted on the caliper bracket. Again, these areas should be cleaned while doing the brake job. I use a small steel wire brush to clean them off. Usually with this scenario, its the rear brakes that do this.

Nah, just got motivation to get it done so I can quit looking at it sitting on jackstands next to my house:-p So I'm going to be out of town this weekend but the work is still slowly progressing. Been slowly working on getting the front end ready to come out of the GL and into the RX. Engine crossmember, complete suspension, and brakes need to make their way into the RX now and then once its in the garage, I can get the engine and transmission into it. I think while the front crossmember is out, I'm going to throw in my new XT6 steering rack and some Whiteline rack bushings:brow:

More common then you'd think. Most Legacy SS and Legacy Touring wagons had a 4EAT. The rare ones are manuals but the Touring Wagons only got a 4EAT.

Well, the car has been sitting since I got it as I've been working on other projects (full engine reseal on my XT6 with better brakes and suspension). Shortly after it arrived, psyko came up and snagged every suspension component, brakes, wheels, LSD and crossmembers out of it. Then another friend yarded the engine out and so its been sitting for 2 months on jackstands in the gravel next to my house. Yesterday I finally had some nice weather and some free time so the swapping commenced. I pulled the VLSD out of the silver coupe a couple months ago and swapped it into my XT6, along with the rear axles as the ones on the 6 were tearing open so I didn't have that to deal with. First I dropped the old subframe out of the RX as the tube was still in it. Then I dropped the rear subframe out of the silver coupe and bolted it right up into the RX, followed by the shocks. Then once it was bolted in (it will come out a bit later as the whole car is getting new undercoating once I get the car in the garage) I decided to gut the interior as it was very moldy and nasty from the sunroof in it. Just have the headliner, dash and steering column left in it. The metal body is getting a good wash before anything goes back into it as there's stuff stuck everywhere:Flame: More work to come over the next couple months:D

I just recently did a reseal on a '97 4EAT that was swapping fluids. Its very easy to take it apart and swap bellhousings. The gasket that goes in between the pump housing and the transmission is metal and the part number cross references for the same gasket on the EA82 4EAT. So I don't see why swapping the front diff housing (which is the bellhousing) wouldn't work. Same bolt pattern as an EA82 4EAT where it bolts to the pump housing.

I currently work for an independent Subaru shop in the area is this is basically what we do on EJ22s and EJ25s to clean the head surface, both on the heads and the block. I use a scraper to clean most of the old gasket material off (the coating from the headgasket), then a piece of red scotch brite with brake clean to scrub the surface and then some 220 wet/dry with brake clean, followed by 400 to get the final result. Now after I clean it with scotch brite but before the sanding paper, I check it with a straight edge and a .002 feeler gauge to check the flatness of the heads. Great write-up GD, especially for a DIYer!