Caboobaroo

I would start with the cable. Tell tale signs of it started to suck oil into the cable are a bouncy speedo needle. Done a few cables which fixed the issue before it started leaking.

There should be 4 or 5 10mm bolts that bolt it into the block. 4 will be right around the pulley for the oil pump and the 5th will be off to the left.

They run + 1.67 degrees of camber in the front from the factory and -0.30 total toe. Rear is supposed to be 0 degrees of camber and 0 total toe, with a thrust angle of 0 degrees. I have aligned more EA81s and EA82s then most people that actually do alignments. I have a 5-lug conversion on my RX and I made custom alignment specs for it which I'm also going to be running on my XT6 once I get the rest of the EJ front suspension swapped in.

Thats Brian's (TheSubaruJunkie) old RX. I would know that car anywhere!

I'm planning on putting some on my XT6 eventually as I kick crap up off the road during the winter time. Doing it to help save my paint:lol:

I put '05 STI seats into my RX using the factory L series rails and welded tabs onto the rails that lined up with the mounting points on the seats. Took a bit of grinding to make them work, both on the seats and on the tabs. They sit about 1/2" higher then stock but it was well worth it.

I'm going to be coming down from Seattle Friday night after work. A coworker is caravaning down with me in a white bugeye RS. I'm heading to PDX area for Friday night as I don't feel like setting up camp after working 50 hours this week and having King County Emissions class that runs late as well:-\ So anyone who is going from the area, let me know and maybe we can figure out a caravan down to Hwy 14 where whoever wants to break off and head to the fairgrounds.

If you need any more information about parts that will work for the EA82, let me know as I've done quite a few 5-lug swaps. As for the Brat, sounds like you have some issues which they all typically do when they've been well used. I haven't seen a Brat that I've aligned that was anywhere close to being perfect. Have the suspension and steering components checked out first and then go from there...

Unbolt the pinch bolt on the bottom of the knuckle and release the ball joint. Sometimes if there's a lot of rust, you won't be able to and you'll have to unbolt the strut. Then remove the axle nut (36mm) and the roll pin and hopefully it'll slide out of the bearing. I just did one on a Loyale at work and had to use my air hammer and some rust penetrant.

I will be there! I got my XT6 on the road and hopefully getting detailed this week:banana:

You probably didn't have much to do with the wiring being messed up, it all sounds like stuff that happens with older cars and original wiring harnesses. What I would have done is basically replace all the wiring, one wire at a time. You can color code it to original if you're so motivated to but on the last one I built, I used a generic selection of wiring colors and then wrapped the whole harness back up. Probably would have never known unless you tore the harness back down. Sounds like wires are corroded and causing problems, especially with the blinkers. Corrosion will make everything work slower, especially on the grounds.

Did you happen to check the heads for warpage using a .002" feeler gauge and a straight edge? Thats my $0.02

Won't fit onto the EA71 of that era as the block is narrower then the EA81 or the fat case EA71 that came in the EA81 bodystyle in Standards or DLs. Best bet would be to replace the EA71 with an EA81 and then do the SPFI swap.

I'm in the process of making LED tailights for my XT6 and have figured out how to make them, and to make them sequential like the new Mustangs:banana:

I'm currently trying to look at this on my phone so the pics aren't the clearest for me. Maybe a low switch for the brake fluid? I know on the gen 1 stage 2 cars, there's a float in the master cylinder that when the level gets low enough, it pops a light on in the cluster, usually the "BRAKE" light...

Sounds like the master switch in the driver door just went out on you.

I used to use my spring compressors without air tools, or power tools for that matter. Takes a wee bit longer to do it by hand but go slow and you'll get it. Just keep an eye on them while you compress them and if they shift, stop and make sure they're not going to leap off the spring and smack you in the head.

OOooOooOoo I'll have the XT6 back on the road in the next week.... I'm down for another old school meet as I had to miss this one.

This would be where I'd start. Check everything in the ignition system first.

Try going to a radiator shop with your measurements and see if they have a generic one. Then make brackets to mount it.

And thats the show when I first started meeting people was WCSS5:banana: I came across some old pics from it a few months ago and it brought back many memories. I remember you had a white XT turbo that you later sold to a guy in the midwest and MilesFox's trek across the country in Trashwagon 3 I think it was....

::unamused:: I'd like to have a summer this year.... Unfortunately it seems that we've skipped right into fall already:rolleyes:

You'll dump more money into the EA82T then you would in doing an EJ22T swap. I spent over $10k into my first black RX and I went through 3 EA82Ts.... Right now into my EJ22T swap (even though its not running yet), is only $1200 and thats with the Impreza transmission and a Legacy rear VLSD.

If its a turbo, it will be fuel injected instead of carburated. Also, there will be an aluminum plenum that goes from the turbo outlet to the throttle body that will have raised lettering on it that says "Subaru 4WD Turbo" in big letter. Can't mistake a turbo Brat for a naturally aspirated Brat.

I'm located in Kirkland, just east from Seattle.