Caboobaroo

Color? Dang, just seen they're black.

Well, they break but don't cause catastrophic failure like valves into pistons. Unless you have shaved heads and high compression pistons then maybe. If I break one on the new engine, we will find that out.

I don't have a thread but I've done it a few times. The location boss is already there. Center punch it and drill it out. I can get drill bit sizes and tap sizes tomorrow if I remember. When looking around for this, remember, this is the larger EGR pipe vs. the smaller one from the earlier EJ25D.

You can also drill and tap the EGR hole in a NON EGR head.

Hi Roy, is the vehicle a drive by wire throttle or does it still have a cable attached? If it's a drive by wire, pulling the torque box off the throttle body and cleaning the butterfly should fix your issue.

There is an oring that goes between the oil pump housing and the block. I believe when that's missing, the pump won't be able to pull the oil from the pan.

First off, make sure the coil overs are for a wagon, not a sedan as the track width is different. Secondly, some rear coil overs have a slotted upper hole for the clevis bolt so it can have the camber adjusted. The coil overs should take care of the ride height issue but there are companies out there that make a "saggy butt spacer" to help even out ride height. Usually, those are for standard strut/spring combinations.

Left bank should be higher then 160. I think it's supposed to be 195-210 or so. When you installed the timing belt, did you use the arrow mark or the notch mark on the crankshaft sprocket?

The one major issue the 1999 has is the speedometer heads are known to go bad. Says it had 80k miles but could be 120k miles. I've tried a few fixes for it including soldering a wire on the circut board over the original tracer on the board but that only worked for a few months. If the car is an L model, it will have the phase 2, EJ222 in it. Those are a single cam version of the single cam 2.5 models from 2000 and up. If it's an Outback or a GT, it will have the EJ25D, 2.5 liter dual cam engine which are the same from 97-99 but the 99 EJ25D utilizes the larger rob bearings like the newer 2.5. 1996 EJ25D works in place of the 97-99 but they run a one year only hydraulic lifter setup inside the heads which can be noisy.

The axle you have will also fit 2000 through 2006 which use the tone ring on the axle. I have seen the newer axles in older cars before without issue. I'm voting for a bad axle out of the box.

With it running, grab the EGR diaphram valve and cycle it by hand. If the car runs rough while doing that, you have a clogged BPT or the solenoid is not opening to let vacuum to the valve. If it doesn't run rough, possible plugged tube or intake runner.

I have had this stump me in the past. Replaced the front 02 sensor, checked for intake leaks, tried a few other things. Come to find out, it was a bad mass air flow meter causing the ECU to think it's running lean so it tries to add as much fuel as possible. Cleaning might help but expect replacing it for a proper fix.

Double post.

Fairtax is right. The throttle plate gets build up on it and sticks after an ECU reset. Cleaning of the throttle plate and body remedies this problem.

You are mistaken. You are looking for 87-89 RX side skirts as the 85 and 86 models didn't have them. Also, 90 Loyale RS turbos also had them.

Again, it's not worth the hassle. Being someone that owns an XT6 and has 3 extra engines, you won't find parts to keep it on the road. I'm the guy who bought the last complete engine gasket set and 2 of the 4 timing belt idlers from Subaru. To do the complete timing belt job cost me almost $700 and I get my parts at wholesale from Subaru.

Being someone that has blown up multiple EA82T, I would have been one to also say it would be better to EJ swap it. No point in trying to build the EA82T when the EJ swap is so common. That would have been a few years ago. Now I'm in the process of building a decent street, NA ER27. I was lucky enough to pick up someone else's parts stash that had some performance parts for the 2.7 but it's just an EA82 with 2 more cylinders. My current build, which isn't near completion, I'm shooting for 250 crank hp, starting with 145 crank hp. So far, I have a block that had the cylinders bored, line bored and decked, Wiseco pistons from Ram Engines, Delta 272 torque cams, OEM head gaskets and related gaskets and a clean up done on the castings of the cylinder heads. Because im staying NA (about 10.2:1 cr), didnt really see a need fot head studs. I also have a OS Giken twin disc clutch that will have the flywheel redrilled from the EJ pattern to the EA/ER pattern along with a custom bellhousing to accept the EJ 5 speed. There is a welder local to me (Steve @ Inferno Fab) that said he could make me a custom header. I already have an extra set of flanges for that. Still need to tune it so I decided on a MegaSquirt 2 v3.0 from DIYAutotune.com. with this setup, I will be running a Ford EDIS6 ignition system using an aluminum crank pulley with pickup wheel on it. Eventually, I plan to use the optical pickup inside the distributor as a cam position sensor. For help with tuning the MS system, I scored a cheap Innovative LM1 wide band 02 system that will work in conjunction with the MegaSquirt. Injectors are almost the same as Nissan so I can upgrade sizes to pretty much any size I need. I could go on about this build and will do a write up once I get it completed. It's a slow road for me as I have other Subarus needing modications and parts. The joys of owning a fleet of cars, hahaha!

It's all about the transmission code. I was able to find that up through a certain number, are standard. I have a bit of torque bind in mine and wanted to see if it was under the TSB but it was the earlier system.

I use nothing but Mitsuboshi timing belts and serpentine belts on Subarus at work. I've run two other branded serpentine belts on the XT6 with issues. Ordered a factory one, branded Mistuboshi. Never have had an issue with the timing belts.

I want to add that not all 2004 3.0 autos were reversed for the AWD. Mine is earlier in the year (found out engine and transmission combo were put together in 2003) were the same as the 2002 and 2003. It's also a non VDC car so just the typical 4EAT.

Any driveline from a 2000-2004 Outback will work but there were a few revisions done through those years. I just unOutback'd my 04 sedan and used a standard Legacy 2.5 driveline. Also, it has to be for an automatic.

I wish people would QUIT RECOMMENDING FEL PRO HEAD GASKETS IN THE 2.5! They are junk and will continually blow because they are of subpar quality.

Do you have any rough running on cold start up? Misfire codes? I've run into a few of these phase 2 EZ30 where the head cracks from the combustion chamber to the cooling jacket.

How long ago were the head gaskets replaced? What brand of parts were used? Was a valve job or adjustment done at that point in time?

Get yourself an Exedy 15010 clutch kit, have the flywheel resurfaced, replace the fork and the 3 clips, check the snout that the throw out bearing rides on for major wear, install a sleeve kit if nessessary, replace the baffle with a metal one if it hasn't been done yet, check the rear main and the rear wrist pin access plate for any leaks.