Caboobaroo

Its the injector pulsing. Basically the click is coming from the injector turning on and off. Totally normal on any fuel injected vehicle.

Usually with injector leak, it happens over the period of a couple hours. When the car is shut off, the fuel system is still pressurized and if an injector is leaking, the pressure escapes through it. Then the fuel washes down into the cylinder, past the rings and into the oil. You can pull them out and send them to an injector specialist to have them checked out and repaired if nessessary, or source up a good known set and be done!

I'm always weary of putting grease anywhere near the rubber on brake calipers, brake lube or not, it can still cause the rubber to expand and cause bad things. I use just some brake fluid as lubricant when I put the pistons back into the caliper. Also make sure the piston bore is smooth, not pitted or scored. I've used JB Weld to fill in some small pitting before on a set of '68 Buick Riviera calipers as there are no aftermarket replacements for the housings. Haven't had any issues doing it that way. Oh and when it comes to bleeding, get a friend. It makes it so much easier. Have them push down the peddle and hold it, while you open the bleeder screw, then tighten it back up and have them release. Do this until the fluid changes color and no more air comes out. Best to use a hose that fits onto the bleeder and a small clear glass jar with some fluid in it. Put the end of the hose on the bleeder, the other into the fluid in the container and as you open the bleeder, the fluid will be forced through the tube and you can see the bubbles inside the container.

According to Alldata, this is what the code is for. DTC PO441: EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM INCORRECT PURGE FLOW Look for cracks in the lines or a plugged evaporation line. With it running, take a can of brake clean and spray it around the solenoid and the vacuum lines. Listen for a change in idle even if its the smallest one, while you spray a bit of cleaner. Looking at how the system is setup, it can be a couple things, like the ECU, purge solenoid, SBF-2 or main ignition relay as thats all thats in the electrical circuit.

The adjustment thats on the base directly in the center is the idle mixture screw. The other is the idle adjustment. As far as tuning them, I cannot remember off the top of my head as its been a few years since I've dealt with a Subaru with a Hitachi.

Here's what you do. Take the wheel off, crack the bleeder screw and let the pressure out. It'll help taking the caliper off a bit easier if its locked up. As for needing vise grips to "clamp" the line, not always needed. Leave the line hooked up until you replace the caliper (unless you're rebuilding it) and then just unbolt the line and quickly bolt it back onto the new caliper. Another option for capping the line would be to take a rubber plug that'll fit over the hardline where it threads into the rubber brake line that leads to the caliper.

What sucks is I have a rust free 3-door shell that I'm going to be getting rid of here this summer. Miles, do I hear a roadtrip to the NW again?

Its sounds like the thermostat didn't open yet. Replace thermostat, radiator cap and refill with new coolant, then go drive it for a bit to let it open the thermostat.

Hump day bump! This Saturday from 12pm-4pm we are having a huge BBQ and Subaru meet at the shop. Free food and lots of fun including raffles, $25 carwashes by our awesome detail crew and $40 alignments done by yours truely! So hurry in as its a first come, first serve for alignments! The address if you guys want to attend is 12232 NE 116th St, Kirkland, WA 98034. Hope to see some of you then!

I have a transmission from a '97 Impreza in my RX behind my EJ22T. I also just have a factory clutch as well, nothing too special. Transmission is a cable clutch style, 3.90 final drive.

How much for the returned one?

I believe you can use parts from either the Hitachi 2 barrel EA71 carbs or the Hitachi 2 barrel EA81 carbs. Find someone who is doing a Weber swap and buy their old carb from them for parts. Of if you source up a good stock carb for not a lot, swap it on, should be pretty straight forward. Carbs to watch out for are the Carter-Weber single barrel EA81 carb, Hitachi 2 barrel EA81 computer controlled carb and the Hitachi 2 barrel EA82 carbs

Ask for a bearing for a '90 Loyale. It'll be the same part but sounds like you might be getting the rear bearing for a 4wd EA81 car. I see you're in Corvallis. Head over to napa on 9th St and ask for Jimmy if he's in. Tell him Russ sent you to him and that he can help you out.

Exactly. I'm going to be making these so that its easier to get axles (IE replacement EJ axles) instead of having to make axles that work. It also gets me back into fabrication so once I have a few other projects finished up, I can start making custom subframes to bolt EJ suspension onto so I can bolt it into an EA82 chassis. I might have to make a trip down there here soon. We're finally getting settled into the new place but I still gotta get the garage squared away, as it looks like poo:rolleyes:

I need some help on getting some control arm measurements for an EA81 and an EA82. Pics would also be great too. I'm fabricating up some custom control arms to do a 5-lug conversion on the front of an '82 Brat and plan on making some control arms for it and possibly more to sell. I need the outside diameter of the bushing housing where it bolts into the crossmember, length of bushing housing, length of control arm from where the bolt runs through the bushing to the center of the ball joint taper (it doesn't have to be exact but fairly close), the width of the largest area on the control arm and the distance from where the strut rod bolts onto the control arm from the center of the bushing. I'd also like some pics if they can be had without much hassle. Once I have one set done, I'll post pics and go over what I'm doing in a new thread.

check the coolant temp sensor. It could have an affect on the driveability problem. I had a similar issue when I first put together my GL coupe and after replacing the fuel pump with a new one, I figured out the fuel injector was mostly plugged in. When the engine would warm up after driving for a bit, the connector for the injector would swell and cause it to lose connection. So make sure to double check the connections as well.

I can see what I can do. The car lives down in Tacoma area and I'm further north in Kirkland, about 3 1/2 hours from Oregon City. I'm down in Milwaukie quite a bit myself but its usually in the girlfriend's car, '09 Hyundai Sonata Limited:slobber:

Yay! Now I get to fill your head with mucho alignment information! In order to check the steering parts before an alignment, jack up the car with the suspension loaded (so a jack under the control arm to "load" the suspension like it would be sitting on the ground). You can now check a lot of stuff. If you put your hands at 12 and 6, you can check the play in the lower ball joints and the wheel bearings. If you put your hands at 3 and 9, you can check side to side play in the tie rods and tie rod ends. If there's any looseness in the bearings, you'll also feel it side to side as well as up and down. If it feels tight, then you can have it aligned. If not, well time to get the parts replaced and then have the alignment done. On an EA82, rear camber and toe can be slightly adjusted but not a lot of places will do it from what I've seen. The front, obviously is just toe since camber and caster aren't technically adjustable. You can loosen parts on the suspension up a little to get some adjustability out of it but thats about it.

I've also driven a Brat that had Jerry's conversion done to it and compared to the 4-speed, its heavenly. I did 75mph at 3k roughly from Portland to Seattle (about 3 hours) with the bed full of furniture and it made it up all the passes without any issues. So when you're ready to do a 5-speed, get in touch with Jerry and he'll hook you up with the good stuff

I'm still in touch with the current owner of at as he came by with a friend to get an alignment on his friend's car. He should be bringing it to me shortly to do some work on it for him, including replacing the rear gold hatch badge that some *&%@* stole off of it:mad:

What Rob says is true except on the sedan, there's no modifications needed to the RX bodykit. They did make the RX sedan with a full bodykit in '87.5 and '88. Bumpers will fit but also what Rob said about the rear plates is true.

They don't know what they're talking about. Worn steering parts can cause the axle to go bad? Never heard about that before. If the tie rods and/or ball joints have movement, it can cause a clunking on accell but should cause a rotational clunk. If the boot is torn on the ball joint and the tie rods have movement, I would replace them soon. Seen too many people with bad steering parts drive away because they'll "fix it later" and then it comes back a couple weeks later with a sheard off ball joint stud or broken tie rod end. For the rotational clunk, also check the brakes. Make sure the rotor isn't warped. A warped rotor can cause the brake pads to clunk around in the bracket, even if you have no brake pulsation. Seen a new rotor out of the box cause a clunking sound like that but no pulsation. Then obviously check the bearings and axles once again.

I want to come work with you. We do some hotrod stuff here at my shop but no restos or builds:-\

Its like pulling any other RWD automatic transmission except the front axles. You'll have to tap the roll pins out that hold the axles onto the transmission and undo the front struts to get them to pull out far enough to come off the transmission. Then its driveline, cooler lines, wiring harness, shift cable, torque converter bolts (which are accessible through the starter hole so you'll need to remove that), bellhousing bolts and transmission crossmember. There's going to be a few small items you'll realize that need to come off (like the pitch stopper) but its fairly easy to do. I would highly recommend a friend to help get the transmission out and in because the 4EATs are heeeeeeeeaavy!

On 3AT cars, its easy to bypass that switch as its located in the shifter. Remove the 6 wire plug (I think its a 6 wire plug) from the shifter, find the biggest black and black/yellow wires, put a jumper between the two and start it up. My silver RX was a 3AT and I jumped it there when I swapped in the RX drivetrain (was a GL coupe) and ran it like that for a few years.