Caboobaroo

I have been in the very slow process of putting the EJ22T radiator into my RX. I got it with my swap, radiator is new as well, which is why I decided to go with it. Will get upgraded again eventually. I still need fans and to finish up the core support with the mounts but it seems to fit in there fairly nice. I modified the bottom of the core support to make room for the bigger radiator. The factory radiator sits on top of a boxed base so I cut the top and back side off of the "box" and dropped the radiator down another 2" or so. Then drilled some holes the size of the EJ22 radiator bushings so it would drop down another 1/2" I did this after i took the pics and I'm working on a way to make a support over the top of the radiator to keep it sturdy. I've also been toying with the idea of making a V-mount radiator and FMIC install as well but when I get more time to work on it, I'll keep designing it:rolleyes:

If the slides are starting to stick, you'd see the results in the pads. If the bottom was truely sticking, then the outside pad would be thicker on the bottom then the top, vise versa with the inside pad. What happens is the grease starts becoming more of a solid then a liquid which will start causing it to stick, then you get moisture in there causing rust. If you can get to them before the rust, make sure they have plenty of caliper lubricant (its on the counter of all major auto part stores) which isn't petroleum based, clean, relube and done!

I've seen these bearings plenty tight but howl like its going out of style. Done numerous bearings in the rears of a lot of EJ vehicles. Have both replaced, aligned, then you'll be set.

There's been a few lifted EA82 sedans. What color was it?

Looks like an EJ22T

I bet if you spin the alternator by hand and listen carefully, you'll hear it squeak. Reason why it would be louder while the car is running is because of the tension the belt puts on it.

If it were me, I'd get it back together with all the new gaskets, put 1/2 a can of Seafoam and 1/2 quart ATF, then some 5w30 oil. Let it run at an idle for about an hour, shut if off and immediatly do an oil change again with a new filter. If its nice and warm plus the additives, it'll help clean everything out of the engine.

There's also a small rubber coated metal ring between the cam case and the head on both sides of the engine. Gary might know a place to get them as well but last time I bought some, I got them from www.thepartsbin.com. They're just a couple bucks and I would highly recommend replacing them while you're in there.

You can do it either way. I usually pull the timing belts after I've loosened the 3 cam pulley bolts and continue dissassembly since I feel its the easiest for me at least. I have seen it done without taking the pulleys off as well without any ill effects

It seems to be common for the alternator to start chirping. Seen it quite a few times on high mileaged EJ Subarus. Bearings are starting to make noise and before too long, the alternator will quit working.

If for some reason you end up not being able to figure it out, I'm at a Brake and Alignment shop over in Kirkland off of 405. Bring it by and I can take a look as well.

I bet! I ended up doing a clutch and rear brakes Sunday at my house on a '02 WRX wagon.... I've been paying for that since then:-\

I wish I could have made it. Carrie came down with a nasty sinus infection and a stomach bug which ended up getting passed on along to me unfortunatly. If not, she could have hung out with Renae and Rob and I woulda gone up lol:lol:

She's got more pine needles on her from sitting under the trees in my yard... Maybe even a couple pinecones but no actual progress on the swap:-\ Granted, I think I figured it out. Getting together with another brain tonight after work to discuss!

I used to run around those parts a few years ago. For the Forester 2.5, they are decent engines but they do have headgasket issues so ask if its been done. If not, they're a ticking timebomb sort of thing. The difference between the old GL 4wd and the Forester AWD isn't the axles or drivelines, its the way the inside of the transmission is set up. The 4wd Subarus are like a 4wd truck but instead of being RWD, 4WD, they're FWD, 4WD. The AWD Subarus have a center differential that help distribute the power front and rear but is a differential so it can prevent binding while driving on dry pavement. If I were you, I'd do a 5-lug conversion using the correct XT6 parts and the Forester parts, then swap the drivetrain into the car and you'll be done. Granted, its not that easy but it is very time consuming if you've never done a full swap with wiring harness like this.

Gloyale, I have a rebuilt rack that I've been toying with the idea of selling. My RX has the EJ22T PS pump and half the lines. I went to Napa and for $23 they took the ends of the EA PS lines and mated them onto the EJ PS lines using some swivel adapters that tighten down when you tighten the lines down. I'll see if I can get a couple pics tonight if its not too dark out. I also have comparison pics of a WRX rack next to said rebuilt EA rack but I haven't uploaded them yet

In theory I think it matter. If the neutral safety switch isn't wired in, then the engine shouldn't even crank over. Now I bypassed the EA82 neutral switch since I was originally a 3AT but the ECU gets a signal from the TCU to tell it that the trans is either in Park or Neutral... Maybe I figured out my issue?!?!?!?!

Almost sounds like the same issue I'm having with my swap. I have a EJ22T harness and everything in my '87 but the ECU isn't grounding my FP relay and my main relay isn't clicking:-\ I'll be watching your thread closely and hopefully someone can be most helpful:grin:

All EA82/XT6s with a rear sway have them mounted to the main trailing arms in the rear. I've also seen people modify the arms to accept a swaybar when it didn't originally come with one. The main upgrade using the XT6 stuff is the fact you'll have better brakes and a little bit better suspension. I like to use only the parts I have to for the XT6 and then use EJ parts the rest of the way for more upgradable parts.

There's a bracket thats supposed to be on the bottom of the tranny about 6" from the tailshaft section. This is what bolts to the downpipe. Sounds like the car is a GL sedan with loaded options.

The vacuum diaphram is on the driver side above the front diff, seen in this pic. There's a cable that goes from it to the center diff near located in the tail section of the tranny. If it doesn't have it, then its going to be a '85 '86 RX/GL-10 part time dual range 3.7 tranny.

I put on some Blizzak WS60s onto the SO's '09 Hyundai Sonata Limited last night. That car is fantastic in this stupid crap. Enough weight over the front end to keep great traction (3.3 v6) and heavy enough in the rear to prevent it from washing out behind us. I dearly miss my XT6 but it needs too much work before I want to drive it again:rolleyes:

Check out this thread, it might help http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116220

I've built a couple harnesses for '81 Brats. What sort of issue are you having?

I love the name you came up for him Jamie!