Caboobaroo

This question was just asked in the last couple days and I answered it. Its a very common issue on the gen 1s to have a failure in the main power wire from the battery to the headlight switch. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117594

Glad it worked out for you. It had been so long since I had done this conversion, I was kind of rusty on what all I did but glad it helped you out a little!

Those O-Rings were going to be what I was going to mention but it looks as if you beat me to it. Anyways, the O-rings can be replaced with generic ones from a parts store. I've gotten them before from a generic parts store and from a hardware store (only thing around and I was lucky!) The writer of the article you posted in your original post, is actually a friend of mine that owns an independent Subaru repair shop here in Kirkland. His shop was voted for best independent shop in the area from consumers. If you need anymore help, give either Justin or Ryan (another really good friend of mine) a call at their shop. (425)828-3600. They can even get the O-rings you need and can ship them too IIRC.

IIRC, the headlights are powered straight from the battery. The main power wire can get corroded and creates an open in the circuit. I had the same issue on my '78 Brat, I just ran a new wire from the battery to the headlight switch inside the cabin.

Lowered Brat??? This is my old '78. Used the hood off of my '79 wagon and the grille as well (which is why its white and flat black). It was also RWD and had the JDM 1600 in it with a Holley 5200 (similar to a Weber 32/36). I'll lower another one if I get the chance to!

I have a thread in the USRM about 5-lug conversions. Go ahead and add any information to it, that would be awesome!

If you can get it running, I'll buy you enough to satisfy you for the next 6 months:lol:

All righty back in action.... Kind of:rolleyes: I'm going to set up a get together at my house for pizza/beer/soda here soon. I need to get it back on the road fairly soon so the XT6 can be down for a couple more months while I get a bunch of engine work and bodywork/paint done on it.

Change all the brake fluid since its hydroscopic (sp?) and tends to suck water into the system while it sits. While you have the front tires off, pull the calipers off and check the caliper slides to make sure they're not sticking. Since you say it pulls right, the left side caliper slides would be the culprit. Take them out, clean them and throw some new caliper grease into them. If the problem after that still persists, then check the front end.

OMGHI2U!

I have a random RX rear piece IIRC. Its the most rear interior trim piece with the interior light and switch. Might have a crack but still looks decent when I saw it last. It might be gone though:rolleyes:

Carrie and I will hopefully be there in the XT6. I don't have a rack so getting a tree might be interesting!

Type of Wrenching: Shadetree, Maintenance, Professionally What: If it has 4 wheels and you drive it down the street, I probably will work on it. How long doing it: 17 years total, 8 years professionally Other skills: GM certified Body Technician, BASF certified auto painter, ASE certified (Steering and Suspension, Brakes, and Electrical), AA in Auto Tech, Welding (Mig, Arc, Oxy) I'm the NASIOC NWIC Alignment Specialist. Done roughly 1000 member's cars since I moved to Washington in '07. I also used to have my own shop in Laramie that I would do side work for people. In highschool I used to restore old Schwinn bikes from the 50s, 60s and 70s. I built electric powered race cars in highschool as well.

Yeah I'm not sure on mine. I'll have to look through my pics this afternoon or check it out when I get home since I've lost motivation to look at my car again.:-\

I have my stock EA82 SPFI cable on my EJ22T swap. Its not perfect but I have it routed so it looks and works good.

They're a decent snow tire. I don't see any issues with getting the tires swapped over.

Should slide on like any other torque converter. If I was doing it, I'd get to a point where I think its splined back up on the tranny, then grab a straight edge and run it across the front of the tranny to see if the converter is reinstalled properly. If its tucked inside the bellhousing, you're ok but if its not, then time to try it again.

All you need is a decent sized hammer, and a long drift. They're pressed in but they're not as hard to get out as one might think. At least, the ones I've done weren't too awful but then again, you might run into an issue with them getting stuck. Doesn't hurt to try! Don't forget the seals!

If the brake pad hardware has broken or come out, it will cause the brake pads to shift around in the bracket causing a sound. It can change with pitch of road, amount of brake pressure is applied and speed.

I used to have a '79 4wd wagon that I was thinking abuot building an EA81TT engine for. I still have the engine sitting in a shed at my parent's house since the project never took off and I scrapped the car. I'll post up a couple pics of it later but I had it lowered and was planning on doing some awesome stuff with the body, which I still want to do once I find another one. And if I'm not mistaken, Sean is the one who started RalliTek back in the day:banana:

Besides a front clip, it also need passenger side doors, the A-pillar pulled or replaced so a new windshield can be installed, and whatever suspension damage might have occured. Could be as bad as the engine crossmember being bent somewhere too. If it was me, I would either sell the whole car for parts OR, find a decent roller and swap the drivetrain into it. If you swap it, it'll still have sentimental value to it since the drivetrain came from a car that saved you and your wife's life. Can't get more sentimental then that.

IIRC, you can use an EA82 PS pump with a EA81T bracket but you have to use the EA81T AC bracket and such for the alternator I think. Its been awhile since I messed around with EA81 stuff but I know the EA81T and the EA82 PS pumps are identical. The EA81T and EA82 PS pump brackets are similar BUT the EA82 sticks out further to clear the timing belts which is why the EA82 bracket doesn't work.

From my experience, EA81s don't have the same kind of adjustablility in the back end like EA82s. It looks the same but I've never been able to get anything to really move on the numerous EA81s I've done. Done a ton of EA82s and been able to get them all to where I'm pretty happy with them. As for the crooked steering wheel, Its a result of the vehicle crab walking. Even if you get the wheel straight on an alignment rack, it'll still be crooked. I'd be more worried about bent parts in the rear first.

Steve, that car has turned out to be an amazing project. I'm very happy for you that you've been able to get the body completely done up and looking as good as it does. A major tip for you to help keep it looking as nice once its back together. Invest in a couple rolls of the wide masking tape and mask off around all the jams when installing the fenders, doors, and other sheetmetal. It'll prevent it from getting scratched while installing sheetmetal and even some in the right spots can help prevent scratches when finishing up the mechanical portion of it.

Gary lives on the other coast my friend. I have a "spare" but its got a cracked end tank and I have yet to get it repaired:rolleyes: