Caboobaroo

The 2000 and up driveline are no longer two piece so it won't work. You can use the midpipe from a standard 95-99 Legacy but the axle back with muffler is Outback specific.

Are you talking about the driveline that goes between the transmission and rear differential or an axle shaft? If it's an axle shaft, all 90-99 axles will work. 2000 they added a tone ring to the axle and yes it still works, it's just not right. If it's a driveline, you will need one from a 96-99 Outback. No others will work unfortunately.

Replace the front O2 sensor with a quality part, clear the ECU memory and go drive I down the freeway for a few minutes. Also, run through a full tank of premium top tier gas (Shell, Chevron, 76, Conoco). Stay away from Arco and supermarket gas stations.

Remove the tailshaft of the transmission, replace the duty C solenoid, check the hub for grooving and reinstall. If the hub has grooving from the AWD clutch pack, it will cause it to stick and bind. The 16 flashes of the AT Temp light is an indicator that there is an electeical issue. Usually its the duty C solenoid failing.

The clutch fork pivot needs to be lubed. When the lube hardens up, it will cause it to go metal to metal and cause a chirp at idle without any clutch input. Requires removal of the engine or transmission. I always replace the 3 clips that hold the fork to the pivot ball and the fork to the throw out bearing.

If you have a cut off wheel, you can grind them down to make it smoother and put it back together. I've done it on a few with good results.

Was one an manual and the other an automatic? They do have different cam and crank sprockets between the two and those will cause your issue. You either have a 6/7 setup or a 36-1-1-1 setup. If you have one set on an engine and trying to use the computer from the other, it won't be able to read the pulse correctly.

Being a 96, it's also possible they have the newer rocker arms with valve adjustments on them instead of hydraulic lifters. Need to pop the valve cover off and look. If the ends of the rocker arms have a 10mm nut with a threaded stud in the middle, they're adjustable.

I have a final edition parts book for gen 1 stage 2 cars. I can help with any part numbers I can as I'm also looking for needed parts.

Sorry, the vacuum canister is under hood, next to the right strut tower. It should have a small vacuum line running to it.

With what parts? Unless you use a cheap rebuilt turbo, it'll never be that cheap. A new turbo from Subaru is roughly $1200 just by itself, then factor in 3 hoses, 2 gaskets, a banjo bolt with crush gaskets and you're pushing $1300. Just in parts. But hey, I only do this for a living. If you want to run cheap parts, you'll be doing it again. Or end up with other issues. Just my $.02

No one has mentioned it but it is a very common place to leak, the wrist pin access plugs. They use sealant that over time gets hard and brittle, letting oil seep past and runs down between the oil pump and water pump. I almost never replace cam and crank seals unless they're black or leaking. If they're brown, most the time they don't need replacing even though people do. Then they use cheap seals which WILL leak. The access plugs are a 14mm allen. Pop them out, clean the old sealant off the threads, put some new sealant on and back together it goes.

$200-300? People wish is was that cheap... To have a shop replace the turbo, all three hoses, remove the banjo bolt filter, removal and cleaning of the oil pan, it's more like $2200... If it's failing, stop driving it. It can go from $2200 to $8500 real quick. I'm only in the middle of doing one myself and have another one waiting for me to start on it.

Does the button light up when pressed? If so, I'd check underhand to make sure the vacuum line from the intake to the cruise unit is hooked up. If it's a manual transmission car, the pedal stopper on the clutch pedal could be broken making the system think you have the clutch pushed in.

I install JDM shortblock all the time with very little come backs. Only have had two but it's been due to oil consumption from sitting. Don't use a JDM NA EJ20, you won't find head gaskets in the US to use on it when they blow. If it was mine, I'd get a JDM 2.5 shortblock from Foreign Engines in Lynnwood, WA, slap some new Six Star head gaskets on it and go.

It's open. If it's an LSD, both rear wheels will turn the same direction.

For your model, there should be 6 bolts and two bottom studs.

Pretty much! I have someone hopefully coming to buy my 90 Legacy LS on Saturday which will free up a spot. Now to get my wife on board.....

If you're in Oregon, I do have a set of beige Limited leather seats that are full power. Bolt right into the car. Seat heaters work too!

Hmm this has a lot of good parts that I could use. Let me see if I can get a car sold but I'd love to get this from you. Just a matter of cash and parking spaces...

They often leak oil where the timing chain case, driver head and block all meet. Usually it puddles up right below the AC compressor.

Paul, I'd really love a crack free blue dash for my 78 but I will still take that dash mat!

I only have one badge on the back that says "4 Wheel drive". I know there are supposed to be others but my hatch was repaired at one point in time so all but that one are missing. It's not even in the right spot....

.008" intake, .010" exhaust

Paul, since I recently aquired another gen 1 stage 2 wagon, got a bit of a list that I need. It's a 1978 1600cc 4wd 4 speed Blue ashtray Blue dash mat Antenna Straight front/rear round bumpers (or Jackman bumpers like a winch bumper) Rear hatch badges Blue door panels (the upper pieces) Passenger side chrome rocker trim "Subaru" hood badge Chrome hood trim above the grille Blue hatch interior panel