Caboobaroo

Adam, great to hear from you again! Sorry but I can't tell you whats wrong with your cluster but glad to know you're still around!

Funny Kaz:lol: My swap won't be done until my "extras" are on the car. EJ22T + lots of machine work + Wiseco pistons + Eagle rods + STi crank + EJ20K heads w/ lots more machine work + ......

Sweet deal Dave! I can't wait to see it this year and I better get a ride in it finally:grin: My RX is well, not going to make it to the show. Needs too much work before I want to show it. Seems you beat me to yet another thing I've had plans for:lol:

Hahahaha, funny Rob:lol: I'm into mine quite a bit but in the overall car, not just the EJ swap. I'll be working on it more this weekend and figure out WTF is going on with my harness. Basically, everything mechanical is done minus some radiator brackets, fans and a few odd-n-ends. Then I get to tear it all back apart:eek: Buying some fun parts to make it MOAR BETTAR!

With everything I've gotten for my RX since I got the engine, clutch radiator and fans (engine was minus all the intake piping, PS pump), all the little stuff, tranny and rear end, I'm still below the $1000 mark. Lets see if I can do a break down Engine with new clutch, resurfaced flywheel, radiator, harness and ECU - $550 EJ N/A 5-speed with matching open rear diff - $40 Driveline shortening - $60 Various intake piping, PS hoses and random crap - ~$200 I traded my 3.7LSD for a 3.9VLSD and traded some SPFI parts for a tranny bearing.

Pssssst, Steve... Rob is TurboneX I'm Russ:lol:

Holy old thread of mine, Batman! I have some pics of it in my Webshots folder... But this is from YEARS ago. Car has been made into new cars now. http://rides.webshots.com/album/302448662rflEga And so has my lowered gen 1 Brat... http://rides.webshots.com/album/302432023YUcDSD

Gary, if you took it in to have it checked, could you post up before and after specs of the car for me? Anyways, yes, there is only a rear toe adjustment (17mm nut, 22mm bolt head) front camber adjustment (19mm nut and bolt) and a front toe adjustment (19mm lock nut, 13mm tie rod). If its only doing it on one rear tire, it can be excessive toe in or positive camber on that side. If it is a toe issue, it will cause the car to crab walk on you, which will also cause the steering wheel to be off centered. If it was a camber issue, it'll be because of bent parts. Obviously you can get camber adjustment parts for the rear end but why put a band-aid on something that could have a bigger issue as far as bent parts? If parts are bent, you install a rear camber adjustment and it'll get it back into factory specifications but you'll also run into a handling issue since the geometry of the suspension side to side isn't the same.

I guess I can chime in with my $.02 since I do bave a little alignment experience:grin: First off, steering rack bushings not only deteriorate with age but also from oil getting onto them. I currently have an issue with the ones in my XT6 sliding around since it does leak some oil... right onto them. Something that I need to fix before WCSS12. Second, check the radius rod BUSHINGS. Sitting on an alignment rack, you're not putting rod force pressure on those million year old bushings so even though the alignment might be dead on, while driving and corning, its not. Steve, sounds like the shop might not have someone that knows what to look for as far as doing alignments. I will ALWAYS check the front end of the car before I try to align it, especially when the customer has a handling issue. Then if they have a handling issue and the 3 main factors in alignments (Camber/Caster/Toe) are in spec, then I'll start checking SAI (Steering Axis Inclination), IA (Included Angle) and Setback. These 3 will also help in figuring out a handling issue. Had a guy come in with a '04 STi a couple weeks ago because it seemed to drive all right but didn't want to handle very well and had massive bumpsteer. Found the Camber and Caster were in spec but SAI was not, causing the overexcessive bumpsteer. Fixed the SAI by adjusting his camber plates back up (more positive camber then it had), then readjusted the factory camber bolts down by the knuckle/strut assembly back to where the camber was. Camber was not effected but SAI was and his bumpsteer dissappeared. So, check ALL the bushings, replace them if needed, realign it and post up ALL the specs. I'm curious if the shop checked everything over on the alignment machine. It takes literally 30 seconds to check everything I listed above.

The other issues they have is the clutch fork. I've seen a few where the pivot ball for the fork doesn't get lubed, wears the fork all the way through to a point where the fork snaps causing a disengaging issue.

I think with my EJ22T conversion with tranny, rear 3.9VSLD and all the parts I got with the engine, I'm in it less then $1k and I've had to search for quite a few parts. Save up and do the EJ conversion. Its not going to be expensive which is why we all do the conversion.

My RWD Brat had the factory open diff in the back but once I changed the center of gravity, it would light the back tires up everytime I got into it. I had also swapped in the rare JDM EA71 high compression motor with a Weber and the car would walk sideways while I had the frotn end locked up doing burnouts. I could only run Chevron premium though which ended up making it kinda expensive to drive but it went like a bat outta hell.

Your fiance has a bf? I still wont forget when Crawlerdan built this car. Almost as sad as my old RX going back to the junkyard in where it came from

Kirkland, Washington. My roomates consist of JRach, Konabru18 (on NASIOC only) and me.

I got the ECU pinout paper when I inherited the harness that was butchered. I also have many pages printed out from the Legacy FSM pdf file. Just need to go through and double check everything:rolleyes:

I've got an EJ22T downpipe but I also have the EJ20K downpipe thats going to go in, then a Esplier JTC-500 catback from a '05 STi that will get modified to fit my EA82 chassis. Not running yet though:rolleyes:

Its just getting me all frusterated. I think ill pull the harness again and double check everything I did. Or start with a non cut ej harness

Well here's the deal with the factory ej harness. I got it when it was mostly stripped by another board member for a different board member. It still has the diode in it and I finished cutting out the smj and soldered all of the connections from it, one wire at a time. I need to work more on it tomorrow when I get more time but I know the yellow wire going into the diode js power.

Ok some progress but now at a spot where its time to do some diagnosing. Got the harness installed into the car today and after a couple hours getting everything plugged in and a few loose ends taken care of, went to start it. It cranks over but no spark and no fuel. I know the harness inside the car is getting power since the accessory relays are clicking on but the one for the fuel pump is not clicking when I crank the engine over. I'm going to be digging into it further this next week when I get time but I'm thinking somewhere I'm not getting power to the ECU or power through the EJ harness. I don't wanna pull it back out again:-\

Does it still have the nasty knock and the oil spewing everywhere? It make quite a bit of mess under my alignment rack... But it made me want mine to be done. Comparing that to your old EA82T was night and day:slobber:

Ok I think I got it! Now all I need to do is to get the harness back together and reinstalled before I do the FP wiring! Sweeeeeeet, I know what I'm doing this weekend:headbang:

Well I basically have the EJ harness seperate from the EA harness on mine, minus the few wires that have to be spliced between the two. I did cut out all of the EA engine part and left myself with the accessory stuff like headlights, and all the dash stuff. Really it seems to be working out ok for me for the most part. As for my FP relay, I think I found it. Its located under the dash almost behind the glovebox. Its a white 4-pole, 5 wire relay from the looks of it. 2 BW wires, each on different poles, 2 Blue wires going into a third pole and a Blue/Green going into the fourth pole. Now if I'm right, one of the BW wires is the power input for the FP, the other one is the power from the relay to the FP, but I'm not sure why I have 2 blue wires coming out of it. It also doesn't seem to match up with the schematics in the FSM I have as far as the color codes on the blue wires. I am using the '87 FSM section 6 if that helps any. Now I have another question. Since this harness came from a donor car that had an auto, what all do I need to keep in order to make it run good? I noticed in Rob's thread that being from an automatic, the ECU has an effect on the idle when it sees that its either in P/N or in gear. Since my RX was an auto at one point in time (since then I cut most of that crap out), I don't have a clutch neutral switch either.

Another thing that might help is getting different sanding blocks. I'm not sure what you're using right now but if you go to your local body and paint store, pick up a set of Dura Blocks. They come in a few different sizes so get the kit. They're kinda spendy but its worth every penny. They have ones that will make sanding the contours of the fenders rear nice. Also get yourself a couple sanding boards, probably 2. One at 6" and one at 12". These are the hard, flat boards with the handles on them and you can either put sticky sanding paper on them or get the kind that require the "HookIt" system. Get the sticky boards, they work just as good and cost less in the long run. Also, bodyguys will also tend to use a rag to feel the high and low spots between the metal and their hands. So take a clean rag, put it between your hand and the metal, and keep your hand flat on the metal and you should be able to feel the high and low spots with your fingers. If you're still having issues with high and low spots, get a can of cheap red spraypaint and barely mist it over your current repair area and ge to sanding more. This is called guide coating and should help you see the high and low spots too. Just don't spray on too much cause it'll give you false readings by soaking into the filler.

I miss my gen 1 cars

And maybe mine will be done before then. I'm working my tail off on it so I can have it for the show:)