Caboobaroo

Ok so next question. I also have 4 relays that were mounted under the dash (not including the ignition relay) and cannot figure out which ones are for what. So this car was originally a FWD 3AT SPFI. I have one with a blue connector and the color wires Blue/Red, Blue/White, Red/Yellow and White/Green. Next is a white connector and Green/White, Blue/Red, Red/Yellow, Red/White. And finally 2 black connectors; one is Black, Black/White, Black/Yellow and then a smaller gauge Black. Then the final black connector is Black, Black/White, Black/Red and a smaller gauge of Black. In all reality, if I don't "need" to remove it if its gonna get bypassed, I can do that later. I'm trying to figure out my main power that goes back to the fuel pump so I can get it hooked into the EJ harness:rolleyes:

Ok thanks for the replies guys. Now just a little bit of info on the wiring. I basically pulled the full frontal clip harness, dash and whatnot. I then cut everything engine related from it so it was down to the headlights and accessory stuff. Then started to splice in the stripped EJ22T harness. And thats where I'm at. I knew I should have paid more attention to the factory harness before I stripped it apart:-\

So I have a few questions of my own. I haven't searched yet because I have had limited internet access the last couple weeks and I'm being lazy... (That and my pool table has become a harness table for a short time) So, I have the EJ22T harness mostly spliced into the EA82 SPFI harness and a few wires left on the EJ harness that I cannot figure out. My PDF file isn't loading onto my laptop so I'm hoping to get them answered here. First I have the EJ Alt-1 connection and can't think of where it would go. Its a BW wire coming from the plug on the alternator and then goes into the car. Second, for the check engine light wire (RY) do I make that the new power for the light or how do I go about wiring that into the old harness. Third, the VSS. The EJ harness has a Green/black wire in the harness but I can't figure out where in the EA82 harness I need to connect it to. I'm gonna have more harness questions here soon. Just a few misc. wires left to go and it should run!

I was able to do mine is about an hour and a half using a come along and the rafters in my shop to pull the engine. But of course, I also put 3 engines in the same car in about a year:-\

XTs were still an optional car. They had XT DLs, XT GLs, XT GL-10s and XT6s. The DL had no options, not even a back seat for the most part:eek:

Not until I get it into the garage and get to going on it again:rolleyes:

Tex, if you need an alignment on it (since you just did coilovers), bring it by. I'll set it up awesome for you!

Steve, if you want, give me a call and I can help you with your Bondo issues. (425)495-1800. After 7pm is the best! I'll also post up some of the information as well. I just recently talked with Subarutex about Bondo work also. I usually use pretty expensive body filler (Evercoat) but the Bondo brand can work just as well and I found that out recently. The Bondo that comes in the red and white can that uses the red hardener, is meant for filling, not for detailed, final work. Use a rough grit sandpaper on it like you're doing to cut it down. For doing a final coating, use the Bondo Premium something or other. Comes in a black can and uses green hardener. Its applies much smoother and a lot thinner as well. Meant for filling in the roughness from the main filler and is used for small dents and dings. It also sands a lot quicker and a lot smoother then the filler. Typically you use a finer grit paper on it, like 120 grit.

Pulling is caused by a high camber, low caster situation as far as alignments. You can also have a radial pull where the belts of the tires on the front can cause it but usually I see this on cheaper tires. A wander is caused by excessive toe in or excessive toe out in the front. It can also be caused by a crab walk in the rear where the rear end thrust angle is out of whack. I have a slight wandering issue with my XT6 but thats or course because the steering rack bushings need to be replaced (oil soaked rubber...) but the alignment is in spec. So if your suspension and steering are tight as far as parts, then an alignment is whats needed.

Tex, when I stipped hoods at the bodyshop, I'd use the industrial stripper from Napa and apply it with a large paint brush. Easier then using towels or anything else for that matter. I have one specifically for that purpose in my toolbox. Wish I woulda known when I saw you yesterday! Oh and if you'd like some help with your rust issue, I'd be mroe then willing to come give you a hand with it. Nothing like bringing back memories of a '69 Mustang I did in Wyoming, lol

I just replied to your PM before I saw this post. i sent you the same link

Yup. I used a 2wd EA81 disty since the vacuum advance curve is a little better then the 4wd curve. Disty and plate like Bill said. And its been a "couple" years since I did this conversion so I don't remember too much about it.

I've found that a lot of older Subarus with pinstripes are going to be buried under the clear coat. My XT6 has them on the surface but it ruined the clear coat from the adhesive when I started to remove them. For pinstripes though, I use an eraser wheel in a drill and just make a couple quick passes on them to rub them off. Again, if you use it on older paint or stay in one area too long, you'll burn the paint real quickly. After I use the eraser wheel, I'll clean it off with a wax and grease remover to help clean off any extra pieces without harming the clearcoat anymore then I have to. I also use my eraser wheel when I do debadging on newer Subarus for other people.

Paul, sending you a PM...

It is your old RX, Tex? I wasn't sure if it was or not.

You need suspension upgrades. Go with a 5-lug setup using Impreza parts in the front (minus the lower control arms and outer tie rod ends from an XT6) and upgrade to some KYB AGXs and different springs. Or go coilovers from a Legacy GT '05 and newer. You can then also upgrade the brakes for more effective braking as well. My RX, I'm currently running a complete 5-lug conversion, KYB AGXs up front with the cheap ebay coilover sleeves, stock shocks in the rear with same sleeves and a XT6 front swaybar. I have custom alignment specs which I set the car to (I'm a alignment specialist) for handling purposes and this car with this setup, handles just the same as my friend's '05 STi with Cobb front and rear sways and endlinks, Tein Flex coilovers and an anti-roll kit up front for steering geometry. I've done EA82T modding and my last setup which lasted 200 miles was a rebuilt EA82 SPFI shortblock with new rings and bearings, rebuilt, ported and polished gen 3 turbo heads with Delta 260 cams (first set made by Delta, got them from WJM), '88 XT N/A spider intake modified for the turbo setup, Nissan 280ZX turbo injectors, rising rate fuel pressure regulator, custom header, TD04 turbo, Megan Racing 3" bellmouth downpipe straight to a dump in front of the rear axle, Samco intercooler hoses, WRX TMIC, AEM cold air intake modified to work on an EA82, Greddy turbo timer and a Greddy Profec II B-Spec electronic boost controller. At 7200 feet above sea level, I was running a steady 12psi. Would I build another EA82T? maybe if I had enough money and time to throw at it to work all the bugs out as far as cooling and stability for running higher boost.

I had to get a crank pulley off of a '06 Legacy Outback the other day at work. Came in because the outer ring had started to seperate from the inner hub of the pulley and had worked its way back into the timing belt cover. I had the radiator with the fans pulled but is an automatic so I did the breaker bar trick but instead of it being just me, I threw on some gloves and had a coworker bump the key while it held the breaker bar against the driver side frame rail. Had the whole job done in about 2 hours including doing complete rear disc brakes.

I'm wondering if its someone on here. I see it parked behind a small strip of shops in between Ford of Kirkland and Infiniti of Kirkland. Its a white RX with a complete 5-lug conversion and a black hoodscoop I think. I'll try and snap a pic of it next time I see it but I do see it there often, whoever drives it probably works in those small shops.

Mine's the best. Came from a WRX and I paid almost nothing for it. I trimmed the top a bit because it doesn't fit perfect (I can be a stickler when it comes to perfection) so I made it fit perfect, along with trimming the bottom.

Hey guys, I'll try and add a little info on doing an EA81 disc conversion up fromt. I did it on my old '79 wagon and am not sure how different the front suspension setups are vs. the older ones but lets give it a shot. I use the EA81 control arm minus the radius rod and it bolted into the engine crossmember. Then I took some round stock (not sure on the size since it was years ago when I did this) but it was roughly the same size as factory. I measured and cut 2 pieces the same length as the gen 1 radius rods, threw them into a metal lathe, turned down one end on each one the same size as the threaded end. I then cut threads into them and used just some standard threaded nuts and washers for it. I then took these pieces, bolted them into the car at the radius rod mounts, bolted the EA81 control arms in and set the weight of the vehicle down onto the control arms until both pieces were touching. Tack welded the pieces together (just like the factory gen 1 control arms), pulled them out and laid down some nice, strong welds to hold the pieces together. Then painted them black to prevent them from rusting and after the "new" control arms were bolted back into the car, I attached the EA81 knuckles and vented disc brakes in. I also used the factory gen 1 struts but the gen 2 struts should be used. I don't know if the tophats are different between the gen 1s and the gen 2s. Here are some pics of the build. After the rods were made and bolted into the car, ready for welding (the suspension is currently unloaded which is why its not lined up) Tack welded and ready for disassembly and final welding (suspension is currently loaded) Making the threads on my "custom" holder, aka the hole for the handle on my engine stand and a pair of vise grips The car sitting back on 4 wheels with EA81 parts up front. I had also cut 3 coils out of the front to lower it and I was planning on reclocking the torsion bars to drop the ride height in the rear

I have been though the last few nights, lol:banana:

we can plan it for a few weeks out. I have to work this weekend and am going to be in Portland next weekend to help the g/*** move some stuff up here:banana: I'm usually free Sundays though if that helps

I ran a SPFI shortblock with gen 3 turbo heads and a TD04 turbo.... Lasted about 200 miles before I blew the ringlands off of #2 and #4 cylinders at 12psi:rolleyes:

So who wants to come help me get this beast running? I've got some extra cash and can buy pizza and beer or something? Suberdave maybe?

I've done a few rear disc brake conversions and the '84 Brat that I did it in would lock the rears up pretty easily on roads where traction was less then dry pavement. Anywhere from gravel to snowy conditions. Just a thought.