Caboobaroo

Driveline is at the shop. I talked to the guy, probably be dropping about $500 on it for a one piece aluminum since my u-joints have some nasty flat spots in them. Oh well, its just money right? Especially since I work my @$$ off for it:banana: Oh well, whats another $500 into a car that I'm pushing close to $10k:rolleyes:

So I'm finally stumped but I want to figure out WTF is up with this damn car. I'm thinking there's something wrong with the coolant sensor for the guage since it seems to warm up in just a few blocks. Also, when the fans come on, engine is right at the 200-210 degree mark, then drops down to about 180. I've used my infrared temp guage and read this myself. I've had 3 hoses split on this car now, 2 heater hoses and the upper radiator hose yesterday. Replaced the radiator with a known good one, have t-stat #3 in it (yes its OEM), no somoke from the exhaust, not loosing any coolant, fans come on and shut off like they should (until Rob tried to hotwire the aux fan in:grin:) but still, it splits hoses. Is it because they're 20 years old and are having issues? Before all this, Rob pulled the engine forward to replace a TO bearing, then this magical overheating issues came. I'm kinda scared to drive it without it blowing up on me.:-\

Wow Bill, thats insane! Did you have those pretty seats in there you got from me? Anyways, thats such a waste man, I'm sorry. I'll keep my eyes open for another EA82 coupe/RX (RX sans motor)

so basically the engine going into the car, in a stock form can only be 60hp but bolt on mods are ok after you show that the engine only produces 60hp. What if you do internal mods to the pistons and rods after you show the engine going in is only 60hp?

Done a clutch on a '05 STi in about 2 hours tops with a lift and a tranny jack. Tranny swap would take me maybe that long with the same scenario. But thats because I'm a bad a$$

This is a subject thats been hashed out many many many times over what parts to use from which vehicles. If you're planning on using the EJ parts for the front, you need the axles, knuckles, struts, rotors, and calipers. Ream the ball joint hole in the control arm with a tapered ream to accept the larger EJ ball joint and voila, done. Rear you need the crossbreed kit unless you can find someone to sell/send you the correct XT6 parts from the US.

So a quick question. DId you put new CVs in the front of it before it started doing it, like pretty recently prior to the vibration? Reason why I'm asking and I'm sure Turbone might chime in as well. Done new axles in a couple of 5-lug conversions (mine and Rob's) and the "new" axles caused a nasty vibration. Even though the axles were causing the vibration, his symptoms were different then mine. Mine had a new axle on the LF and would cause a vibration starting at 35mph and go till 70mph and under right hand curves. His would do it starting at 25mph under accel and decel.

well I didn't spend no $35 on my seats:rolleyes: I WISH mine had been that cheap though:lol:

If it was me personally, I'd replace the pump. I have gotten OEN Subaru oilpumps from www.thepartsbin.com before for 3 different rigs I've worked on. Ran me like $90, brand spankin new, still in the OEM box. With the EA82T and the experience I've had with them, it's better to be safe then sorry, I blew one up in 30 miles because I resealed the oilpump instead of replacing it like I should have. It only had 120k on it too. This is what I pulled from the huge pile of metal shavings when I dropped the pan. Yes, its a $300 car but parts are still fairly inexpensive for them. Hell, my Camaro is going to cost me over $4500 in brakes and suspension alone:rolleyes:

Into my current RX, with everything I have, I'm probably close to a $10k mark with my EJ swap, all the parts, complete 5-lug conversion, and all the other mods I've done to the car (including wheels and tires). If you found a donor turbo Legacy for roughly $1500, you could swap the whole car for somewhere in the neighborhood of $4k total?

Well all the AC omponents have been removed strictly to fit the larger radiator into the car, and if I want to add it back in later, well, that'll be after I get the swap done. Make it work around the swap sort of speak. After I get some more time to hack the core support apart to fit the radiator, I'll see if I can also get the slim fan to fit in there somehow too if I really need the extra bit but if all you're using is the one fan, then I should be ok until the engine gets built.

AAAAANNNND have Connie as well:lol:

Actually I was wondering what you did for fans in your car. I currently have the stock dual fans from the EJ22T and a EA81 slim fan off of a car with AC. I have a feeling none of them are going to work though:-\

Connie, just ship it back out here..... I got like $3k in body tools and paint guns alone:banana: Some of which is going to help Briggs fix his XT6 when I get time

I've run into a few issues with "new" axles myself but mainly on cars I've 5-lugged. My problem was I was getting axles for pretty cheap from a local supplier to my shop. Turns out the DOJs do not have an actual cage and ball setup but more of a roller bearing setup (3 roller bearings compared to 6 ball bearing/cage setup) and was causing nasty vibrations under accel, decel and cornering sometimes as well.

More updates! I LOVE awesome weather and a couple hours to play on it. I have like super tons of motivation now:banana: So Edrach came over and we evac'd the R12 last night from the system. Got up today and tore all the AC out of the car for now (will eventually put it back in but for easiness sake, it'll be out for the conversion). Also figured out how/where I'm going to mount the shift linakges for the tranny. Need to make a 1" x 1" square cut right at the back of the hole for the shifter but I'm leaving the linkages the stock EJ length since I've found its the most comfortable with my STi seats. Tomorrow I'm taking the driveline down to Drivelines NW and having them shorten it for me so I can get that portion of the drivetrain done, and also cut/modify the rear XT6 tranny crossmember as well. I did drop the EJ22T radiator in to see where I need to cut the core support as well and lemme tell ya, this is a huge friggin radiator compared the the 3 row EA82T radiator I had in there before, holy crap:eek:

So I have compared an '03 WRX rack to a XT6 rack today. I have pics but I cannot find my stupid cord to plug my camera into the computer but I'll discuss some of the things I noted that were definatly different. First off, rguyver is correct about the input shaft of the rack being at a different angle. Not a lot but there is a difference I noticed. Second, the PS lines that are on the WRX rack connect into where the input shaft housing is, aren't even close to how the XT6 rack lines go into it. I did notice however, the housings are probably interchangable but the bolt locations on them differ. I need to find my cord, I took like 10 pics of them side by side:-\

A remand XT6 rack with new seals should be compatible with ATF but the electric pump I'm unsure of. I have an XT6 rack in the garage that I'm going to install here shortly but won't know the benefits/drawbacks of it until I get the damn thing running again:rolleyes: I do know I paid $45 shipped for it off of ebay:banana:

My thought for the tie rods/ends would be to see what the length difference in the EA82 and Imprezas are. I would imagine the EA82 inner tie rod would screw into the EJ rack without any issues since they seem to be the same thread and size so if length is difference, you might be able to use the shorter EA82 inners on the EJ rack. Might take care of the difference in length. I also have an EJ rack sitting in my garage along with an XT6 rack as well. I might look into this coming up this week on my next day off and see if I can't find anything else that might be different/same.

So got a bit more done today in the nice weather we're having here. I went and visited some friends I haven't hung out with for awhile so not too much got done... EJ22T PS pump is bolted into the car and the stock boost control solenoids are also in and vacuum lines are hooked up for the most part. Also did some figuring out of the mounting of the EJ linkages in the car and I think I'm not going to shortened the linkages but I need to figure out where I want them after I get the interior put back together so I can get a feel for where I want the shifter to be at. Also removed mroe crap that I don't need under the hood so its getting cleaner under there:banana:I'm also going to pull the rack out this week and replace it with my new XT6 rack I have in the garage:slobber:

Woo updates and a couple pics once I get them loaded onto the computer... Today was an awesome day. I'd like to thank Ed and Rob for their help or else my tranny install would be put off a few more weeks. My clutch EJ tranny didn't have a fork or the cable bracket sicne the guy I got it from, took them in order to do a conversion in his car awhile ago. So Ed sourced one up and pulled it for me from PAP so I went to go ahead and bolt the tranny into the car, and realized I didn't have the bracket. Rob and I (since he was up doing work on the XT6) went to PAP and to the same car that donated its clutch fork, and got my cable bracket. After 5 hours of grunting and moaning, I got it in, bolted up minus the rear section since I now know where I need to cut/modify it for it to work. Clutch is hooked up, pitch stopper in and I even got the VF11 bolted back onto the car with new gaskets and some of the piping. Engine is also fully bolted into the car but under the hood still looks like a mess, gotta get to plugging everything together and get the harness done and into the car. Then it'll be driveline (haven't had much time to get it to the shop) and the radiator and I *should* be good to go.... I hope:-\

Wow, I'm a little late to this party and it appears what was needed to be said, well, has been said. Conklin... are you kidding me? If I'm going to have a car that I'm going to put money into doing an oil change, moreso then the regular $30 at work, then there's no way this crap will touch my engine. Unfortunatly, since you seem to be the only person to hear of this, I'm going to stay away until someone more reknown on this board gives it a test run and frankly, we're all a bit too smart for that (well MOST of us are). I personally have run Seafoam through many many many makes and models of cars that I've owned and some that have been friends as well, with awesome results. So you sir, fail, at life. If you want to push a product, go over to NASIOC.com and head over into the Off Topic section. They seem to have discussions like this a lot over there....

Oh what? Again? Dude, that blows my mind, even after I loctited that thing and cranked it down. Thats insane. I dunno what to say except WTF.

the EJ22T is going to be a better engine IMHO to start with for building if power is what you seek. I'm getting closer to finishing my EJ22T swap into my '87 RX and have plans to build another EJ22T to swap into the car once I get the bugs worked out with this current motor. mmm 400whp sounds fun in my 2500 pound car:eek:

Kaz, up until mid '86, the EA82s had a smaller tranny tunnel then the 87.5 and newer IIRC so the crossmembers are a direct bolt in for the newer EA82s with the wider tranny tunnel but not for the earlier cars. Mine has a build date of 10/86 IIRC and it has the slightly smaller tranny tunnel. I believe they did this for the addition of the 4EAT but I could be so totally wrong.