Caboobaroo

The Full Time 4wd 5-speeds came in dual range and single range. The dual range is the fabled "RX" tranny and the single range came in the manual XT6s and were also put into the GL-10 sedans and coupes in '88 and '89.

The pistons ride in a steel sleeve which makes up the bore of the cylinder.

The only difference between the dingle range and the dual range FT4wd trannies is just that, one is signle range and one is dual range. Both have the locking center diff but only the single range came in a 3.7 final and a 3.9 final drive.

Its kind of a hard thing to diagnose since we don't quite know the severity of the rust in the cylinders. If its pitted bad, then yes, it'll get blow by and burn oil and be no good. Now if you can take a Scotch Brite pad and rub it so its not there or very very very close to not being there, then you should be fine.

Probably SPFI model since it has the carb look to it.

Sorry I missed you guys Saturday night. The Acura wasn't behaving like it should have been and overheated on me in my 3 miles from work to home so I said F it. Beast will have to figure out how to get his seats now though:grin:

Tom, glad to hear from you! Haven't seen you anytime recently on here and its good to have you back. Sorry for the sale of the Brat but bills are most important right now. Wish I could come down buuuuuut thats a wee bit of a drive for me now.

I'm gonna swing by after I get off work hopefully if this stupid piece of an Acura I'm driving doesn't overheat on me. If it does, you guys will just need to swing by Redmond on your way back, or Beast can come get his seats at a later time:lol:

Thats not too crazy bad. Find a car in the junkyard with a decent body and cut it apart for the pieces you need. I know Flowmatered87GL had a '82 Brat that was horrifying since it lived on the Oregon coast its whole life. He spend a good chunk of time and used sheetmetal from a donor car that he cut up to fix it, but it was decent when he sold it. His was a wheeler though.

Bumper is the same for wagon/sedan/coupe but the fenders are coupe specific because the A-pillar next to the windshield have a slightly different profile on them. Should take like 4.2 quarts of oil. I usually put 4.5 just because they do tend to leak a bit but make sure to watch the oil level once and awhile. What Vancouver are you in? I have a black front bumper from a '89 RX sitting here....

I've found that you can swap almost anything into these cars. I also, have a '87 GL coupe but mine was an atuo FWD with a blown SPFI EA82 1.8 in it. I swapped in the RX tranny, rear LSD, turbo engine crossmember, complete 5x100 lug conversion (found here) and a few other mods after I got it back on the road. I'm now in the process of swapping a 2.2 turbo from a '93 Legacy into it, matching 5-speed, 3.9 VLSD and a lot more:banana: Can't really help on the tranny since I hate the 3ATs but the engine is another story. Make sure the cap rotor, plugs and wires are in good condition. Check the fuel filter and replace if need be. If you're not sure when anything was replaced and they all look like they have some wear and tear on them, then it might be worth the little bit of cash to do that, along with the oil change:) And just for your pleasure, the only one on the board that has a "not quite a RX" RX

Thanks mods. Awesome pics, I approve!

That was the same on my '78 Brat. I swapped the points disty with an electronic one from a '83 coupe and it ran mucho better and got better mileage. I then swapped in the JDM FE engine, put the electronic disty and a Weber on it and it was a kick in the pants. I haven't felt a EA71 feel like that ever. Granted I had RWD but the power I had was incredible and would do awesome posi burnouts without any thought. It was hard to keep it under control in the wet though:-\

I'd crimp off the line that goes from the fuel tank to the pump under the car with some vise grips, remove the line from the pump and release the vise grips. Drain it into a coffee can with some sort of paint strainer on it and look for rust or anything else that could be getting clogged in the lines or the tank. If yo do find something, either replace the tank from any fuel injected EA82 car (2wd, 4wd, manual, auto, it doesn't matter) or have it professionally cleaned out.

First off, welcome to the board! You already know that this place is chalk full of awesome (and sometimes not so awesome) information. Now I'd like to drag your attention to the throttle cable. Make sure that its got a little slack in it to rule out the "too tight throttle cable" thought of mine. Also, check the linkages to make sure there's no binding going on and try bringing them to the idle position with your hands. Even though its remand, you could have a sticking throttle shaft which would cause this issue as well. If these both check out, look at the choke and make sure its functioning properly. One way to check the choke is to disconnect the wire going to it and hold it open with your hand (manually). If it still has a high idle after these few checks, we can basically rule out binding or the butterfly stcking open. So now what you ask? If its remand and its none of these, next thing is the adjustments for the throttle adjusting screw and idle adjusting screw. Now this is coming from my '83 FSM for the EA81 and I could get it from my '78 FSM but it'll basically be the same thing. I'm also going to shorten it down and bit and make it so its not quite so technical sounding too. 1. While running, adjust the throttle screw to specified engine speed. 2. Adjust idle mixture screw until maximum engine speed is obtained. 3. If engine speed rises, readjust it to the specified engine speed with the throttle adjustment. 4. Repeat above steps until engine speed at best idle mixture is obtained. 5. Readjust engine idle speed to specification by turning the idle mixture screw.

I've seen a car with a manually wired fuel pump and it caught fire from an oil leak but its very unsafe if you ever get into an accident and it doesn't shut off. Now when you connected the green connectors, did you put the key into the "ON" position and not the "ACC" position? It will only cycle the fuel pump in the "ON" position. Another way to test the fuel pump is to disconnect the line at the fuel rail on the engine and crank it over. If you have fuel at the engine, thats where it'll be. I'm also wondering if there's sediment in the tank that picks up after its running, drops off when its not.

eh I wish but not until I can get my phone turned back on which will be another month or so:-\

Mick, IMHO you need to replace that points disty with an electronic one. I found I actually got better mileage with it then the points disty that was originally in it. Also, drain the old gas from the tank if you don't know how long its been in there. Then give it the ole "rag over the carb" trick to try and clean the jets out a bit. Also cycle some Seafoam through the carb, do the rag trick again, put the rest into the tank and go for it. If it still runs like poo, then time for a carb rebuild or Weber. I've done quite a few gen 1 Hitachis so if you have any questions, let me know:banana:

I'm gonna try for this weekend, maybe on Saturday afternoon or something. Need some $$ for some new boots for Firestone:rolleyes: Galen, after what happened the other night with parts not fitting and the parts I am still missing, makes me kidna irritated at this whole project. I'm just stressed at watching this thing sit here since I don't have the funds quite yet to just get everything and finish it right now, I'm loosing my motivation.:-\ I did like 30 minutes worth of work in 2 hours because of the lack of motivation after the tranny crossmembers didn't fit. I will, however, get this damn harness out by the end of the weekend, even if I have to do it outside of the shop. Then I can get them merged and back into the car:banana:

Sorry man, we will get it done!

You won't make if if the passes are still closed. If you do however, I'll be around since my new job won't let me go down to visit my folks that weekend like I was planning so I'm down to hang out depending on my schedule:banana:

Was there until 10 and you didn't show:confused: Anyways, I've had a bit of a problem... well a pretty decent sized problem. My XT6 tranny crossmembers turned out to not be from a XT6 but from a EJ car of some sort from the look of them. I compared them to the EJ set I already have and guess what...... So there went the ease of the tranny install for last night. I'll figure something out but if Rob is reading this... you might wanna go look for something again for me:brow: After that dilema and getting a bit pissed at the fact that I didn't think of comparing them before I got the tranny on a jack to put it up into the car (the car be on a lift, you'll see), I decided to tear into the factory harness to get it out of the car to start stripping/merging. Looks like it'll be a walk in the park for the most part. I have pics though of its current state. Pretty sad though:rolleyes:

You say the fluid level keeps being innacurate. IF you're checking it like you're supposed to, the car should be running and in PARK (or neutral but I forget) and at operating temperature.

I got a d/r 5-speed with linkages and crossmember for $102.XX from the Tacoma PAP. Rob pulled it for me and was sitting in a wheel barrow when I got down there, RIGHT as they were closing. Gotta love Rob for that one:banana:

Well I hate to be the bear of bad news but its an aftermarket setup that you have. If it was indeed factory, right below the rear defrost button on the left side of the instrument panel, there's be a "CRUISE" button to power up the controls that would be on the steering wheel. I'm not quite in a thinking mood right now so I can't really explain very well on how to diagnose the system but just thought I'd give you a heads up that from the sounds of it, its not a factory cruise system.