Caboobaroo

You say the fluid level keeps being innacurate. IF you're checking it like you're supposed to, the car should be running and in PARK (or neutral but I forget) and at operating temperature.

I got a d/r 5-speed with linkages and crossmember for $102.XX from the Tacoma PAP. Rob pulled it for me and was sitting in a wheel barrow when I got down there, RIGHT as they were closing. Gotta love Rob for that one:banana:

Well I hate to be the bear of bad news but its an aftermarket setup that you have. If it was indeed factory, right below the rear defrost button on the left side of the instrument panel, there's be a "CRUISE" button to power up the controls that would be on the steering wheel. I'm not quite in a thinking mood right now so I can't really explain very well on how to diagnose the system but just thought I'd give you a heads up that from the sounds of it, its not a factory cruise system.

The first thing I'll tell you that once you understand, you might not get. The wiring itself seems like it'll be a pain but in all reality, its very easy. You have to keep in mind that you're not changing the wiring going from the ECU to the computer which is about 80% if not more, of the "wiring". My EJ22T harness literally has like 5 wires that get spliced into 2 fuse locations under the dash, the fuel pump power, and gauges. Its also got the spot where it has a couple grounds and where it gets its main power from the battery, thats it!. The FSM from the donor car will be the best thing you'll own when it comes to it, hands down. My EJ22T harness is going to be totally seperate except for the half dozen wires or whatever it is, that I have to splice in so I'll be able to take the engine out and put it in another car. Or put it on a stand and make it run.

I have an almost new remand Napa one taking up space so if you need it, make me an offer;)

So I'm hoping to get the tranny back into the car tomorrow. Tex if you have time, wanna come get that tranny?

I'm swappin in a '98 Impreza L AWD 3.9 5-speed box I got for $40 that I put a bearing into. I'm also hopefully swapping in a 3.9 VLSD from a '91 Legacy SS. S'ko, you got pics of the radiator setup you're running? I'm just curious to what people have done using the EJ radiator and to compare to everyone else's setup:banana:

I'm also just getting ready to finish my EJ22T swap in my RX but I'm using a different tranny then the stock RX box. I wanna know how thats holding up to it:)

Tex, I'm still failing to see why you had to change the end of the linkages where it goes onto the tranny from the bracket end to the barrel end. Maybe I'm missing something there?

Calm yourself on the Group N mounts... I'm still like totally strapped for money right now until I can get started at Firestone, then I'll have extra money to dump into it. For now, I just need it to work right before I decide to dig back into it. Not driving it for awhile has kinda bummed me out a bit but after getting the tranny back together this week, I'm gettin motivated once again. Oh I sent you a PM as well:-p What did you do to the back of the linkages where they attach to the tranny tunnel BTW? Thats the part I'm wondering about. Looking at it, the pitch stopper would be about the same as a spider XT would be length wise. I think I might have one too... if not, I think I know where to get one:banana:

I have one but I'm unsure if I want to sell it or get another gen 1 to put it on. Depending on what happens in the next year, I might be willing to sell it. Doesn't have the sticker on the front of it anymore since it was crooked when I got it so I removed it and put it on my toolbox. I think I also have the instruction sheet for it too somewhere..... Neener neener neener:grin:

Mick, I had an older Sony tape deck in my '78 Brat that the whole deal slid out ouf the sleeve and left the wiring in the car (before detachable faces). I also had the 10 disc CD changer that matched the tape deck which I put where the glovebox is. The CD changer was black, the dash trim was black, and no one ever noticed it was there:lol:

I think I'll be the first to point out that this is a 4EAT car since it has the FT4WD badging on the sides. Since thats the case, its cheaper to go 5-speed then find a replacement tranny because they're not very common. Find a donor car in the wrecking yard and get the tranny IF its a turbo'd car that you're getting it from, or else you'll have to change the rear diff as well to match gear ratios. Beware though, the 4EAT is heavier then the STi 6mt tranny which is a huge tranny too. This is one of the heaviest trannies Subaru made up until recent. If you feel like diving into a project on a clean car (with I would do), the 5 speed swap it and have more fun with it then the automatic.

Dang, I haven't said anything in this thread for almost a month and a half. Anyways, I've been procrastinating since the snow makes riding my bike a little umm... scary so getting down to the shop to do work has been not happening. I have been sourcing up parts I'm needing to complete the swap though and got a chance today to get down to business at the shop. The parts I ordered besides getting the bearing from psyko in trade for the SPFI from my car, I also got the turbo exhaust gaskets, oil inlet line (in braided stainless steel!) and hopefully the MAF, some of the piping, stock boost controller and solenoids, and a PS pump. As I said, I got to work on this beast. When I left off, you know I had torn my tranny apart to find what bearing was shot and needed to be replaced. Well I got the bearing installed today and the tranny is all back together. Doing the preload and backlash is kinda a pain BTW but I finally got it where I'm happy with it. Tranny shifts smooth sitting on the bench and went back together relativly easy seeing I tore it apart a couple months ago:rolleyes:. Tomorrow I should be doing more like getting it installed into the car! I still need to evac the R12 AC (decided to get rid of it, oh well) since its still charged, pull out the condensor and get the radiator swapped in. I also still have to oval out the engine mount holes as well but that won't take very long. Also got the harness ready to put into the car but it might be another week before I can get to it. Also gotta get the driveline shortened as well:rolleyes: One quick question. I've seen pics of the shift linkages people have used on their EA -> EJ tranny swaps but I need to know what will be easiest. I have all of the Impreza linkages, what would you guys recommend? Oh and what pitch stopper should I use?

The amount of change a vehicle goes through especially when its owned by a gear head is unreal... Check out my RX, before it was an RX:lol:

They are not available anymore from the dealer. I used to possess the last dealer set not too long ago but sold them with a car. McBrat however, makes new, aftermarket ones for a decent price.

You can just make a harness yourself so its totally exposed (ie its own harness instead of integrated into the rest of it). Thats what my plans were. You'll need the basic stuff from the donor car for any auto -> manual swap but you'll also need the vacuum solenoids, switch, and the vacuum lines and connectors. Its a fairly easy wiring harness to make.

Yeah like 10 years from now:-p

IIRC, its an E10, the inverted Torx bit but you need a deep socket and the one that fits I think is a 1/4" drive from Snap-On

To check the pump, get under the hood right behind the driver side strut tower, plug the two green connectors together, get in and turn the key to "ON". If you hear the fuel pump cycle on and off, then you know its working. Also, check the fuel injector connection which is under the hood as well since I know about crappy weather and working on cars.

I painted my old EA71s with Ford Dark Blue. Never had an issue with them peeling and the one I ran rapped out most the time:banana:

Fuel pump relay is inside the cabin, behind the glovebox I think but lemme grab my FSM and check... Actually its under the steering wheel, one of the ones thats bolted to it IIRC that is hiding behind the ECU. It'll have a blue 4 wire connector on it.

+1 for removing the bumper. It seems like it would take more time but in reality, its easier and faster to remove the 2 14mm bolts with a ratcheting wrench and them remove the 2 10mm bolts on the fender with an air ratchet or regular ratchet instead of trying to monkey f*** around with it;)

Regular torque wrench? Tighten it down real tight and go down to a local tire store and ask them if you can borrow a 250 ft-lbs torque wrench, leave the center cap off, pull the cotter pin and torque it. I've done it before and they don't care if you do it in their parking lot in front of them.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=615158#post615158