Caboobaroo

Eastside Subaru in Kirkland, WA. List was like $65 but retail is $87 or something close to that. Is it the same part number as one for a '98 Impreza L awd?

That would be the one! It doesn't matter if there's a little play in it since the tranny will be replaced when I get funding back again for a better tranny. This is just to get me by for the time being. The one I pulled from my tranny is pretyy knarled up on the bearings. Looks like it started to self destruct itself. Everything else looks good, bearings and all except for this one.

So I've spent some of my time besides being poor, playing with my wiring harness. Its just about ready to get stuffed into my car this weekend if I get time. Just gotta do a bit of cleaning up the wires, finish wrapping it and connect my 6 wires into the car. Pics will come as soon as I get time to get down to the shop and take them:grin:

Sweet Andrew, I'll PM you my address Numbchux, the bearing is the fat bearing on the back of the main shaft, opposite site of the gearset from the input shaft bearing. If you want to press it off and send it to me, that would be fantastic since new its like, almost $90. I'm reeeeeeaaaal poor:rolleyes:

For having personal experience with them, I wouldn't recommend them to anyone. I had gotten one for my old RX and it leaked and wasn't accurate anymore. You get what you pay for.

Body: '87 GL coupe Engine: '92 Legacy EJ22T Trans: '98 Impreza 3.9 5-speed NA Interior: '05 STi seats Exterior: RX bodykit, soon to be widebodied Suspension: Combination of Impreza, XT6, RX and aftermarket Wheels: Enkei RPF-1s in 17x8, 45mm offselt, 5x100 Tires: Toyo Proxes 4 215/45R17 Other: FWD auto -> 5-speed swap. Before EJ swap, had SPFI motor swap, RX gearbox, RX rear subframe with LSD

So I'm going to update this endevor since I've gotten some done since the USMB has been down... Anyways, I pulled the EA82 SPFI out last month and had been sitting for 3 weeks before I decided to get down to business. I drug it down to my buddy's shop last week and got going on it. First thing was to finish removing the EA82 crap from the car, like the RX gearbox, linkages, driveline and exhaust. Last night I set the EJ22T into the car but thats about as much as I've gotten. I still need to remove the EA wiring harness and get the EJ harness spliced into it since its just about ready to go into the car. Now is when I need a few items as well. First off, I need a PS pump that will work with the EJ22T since mine is missing. Also need the oil feed line for the turbo, MAF sensor, and a 3.9 NA tranny with a bad gearset. My tranny has a bad bearing which Subaru lists for $87 but since I'm broke, I'm looking for one for like free.99 if possible. I also need a 3.9 EA rear diff so I don't have to spend the $8 on the rear axle cups of whatever I'd need since again, I'm pretty broke. I do have a RX gearbox that I am willing to trade for everything that I need as well;)

Well plans for it as follow. I'm going to drop the 22T into the car as it is along with just a regular 3.9 final EJ 5-speed to get it going. Then is where the fun will begin. First off, once its running and driving, the motor will get pulled and torn down to a bare block. Then off to the machinest to get punched out .020 over and then will get a 2.5 crank and rods stuffed into it. Also, it will be getting Wiseco pistons that are made for this stroker kit. At this point in time, the motor will become a 2.4 liter stroker:slobber: Then I also have a set of EJ20G DOHC heads that will get worked with a full port and polish, new springs, probably some 272 cams, new valves and so on. Intake will be from a '94 STi engine which the heads came from, again some p-n-p will be done if nessessary and portmatching as well. Exhaust is still up in the air a bit. Thinking about an equal length header to a rotated GT32R turbo, full 3" turbo back exhaust with external wastegate. Intercooler will still be top mount since I don't want to do too much hacking for a front mount unless I get the whole front end of the car torn apart and see what I have to work with. So with that, a huge top mount intercooler complete with fans and N02 sprayer as well. Fuel is going to be a huge upgraded pump, some 850cc injectors, custom fuel rails for them, methanol kit, and other odd and ends for it to work. Then I'll be installing an AEM EFI box which will run me about $350, then tuning. Now up until this point, you were thinking to yourself, "Man thats a crazy build but what about the tranny? It can't hold that power!?!?!" Well no it won't need too. I'm looking at stuffing the STi 6-speed into the car with a one piece driveshaft:eek: I'm also going to see about getting rid of the fuel tank, putting a fuel cell in the back and stuff the EJ rear subframe under the car. Then I'll be able to put a R180 back there I think but its still up in the air on the plans for the rest of the drivetrain. I know I can bolt Brembos to my front knuckles and use '04 STi rotors, the back will be a bit different. Might use the stock trailing arms and beef up the stock rear subframe OR like I said before, do some major fabbing for the EJ rear subframe.

Typically with enough crank walk, you'll get a main bearing knock since the thrust bearing integrated into the center main bearing. I've only eve had ONE Subaru that had that and it was my '79 wagon with an EA71 in it. Had a gazillion miles on it too. So no, I don't think that you have a crank walk. Good way to check, grab the front of the crank (without timing belts, accessory belts on there but put the pulley back on) and see how much back and forth movement it has. It should have like none.

But I'll soon have it. This thread will be the documentary of my EA82 SPFI -> EJ22T swap, mwahahaha! Oh and thanks Zap:-p

Congrats on it! The reason why it was sitting for so long is where I'll lend a hand at explaining. This car was bought and fixed by a board member even though he's not active on here anymore. He rebuilt the engine in it since it had been drastically overheated but could never get it to run right. I got it a few months ago but never had time to figure it out. I sold it to crayola and he fixed it since it was sluggish, by replacing the injectors in it IIRC.

No bodylines and tailights are all wrong.

I had a good time. I'm still trying to figure out if it was worth losing my job for though:dead: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23369479&posted=1#post23369479

I was going to bring my mountain bike down but its a no go. Now I'm riding my new bike to Rob's house before I pick up my old XT6 to drive there:-p

Rob make sure you bring a couple extra chairs. I bet someone will want to use one;)

Yes I will be there in my old XT6. I'm calling in sick:banana: You should go get it, now, like as in RIGHT MEOW!

I've also seen a bad mastercylinder cause brake fluid to mysteriously dissappear. If the MC leaks into the brake booster, the vacuum of the engine will suck it up into the intake and be gone. Only way to know is to pull the vacuum line off of the brake booster and look to see if its wet inside of it. I've seen it a couple times before. My RX is leaking a bit there too but the paint on the brake booster is starting to peel which lead me to the leak I have:-\

Can you do a set for a set of STi Brembos? I'm willing to pay extra for a set if you can.

Was it a manual and are you able to pull parts? I NEED the crossmembers for the tranny from a manual XT6 and am willing to pay for them.

I ran a new stock pump but I also hear you can get the Walbro pumps and something for a F-150 mid 90's era (I think?) to work as well.

I thnk it was 32 and standard was 38-43 but I could be wrong. The problem with cranking up just the fuel pressure is the injectors will hit a max out and with the EA82T injectors, its like 185cc @ 36 psi of fuel so not much gain in cranking up the fuel pressure. I dropped 280ZX turbo injectors into my old RX with an adjustable FPR, cranked it up to 42psi and it was so different. Granted I was running 12 psi from a TD04 at 7200 feet above sea level at the time but even with my narrowband A/F gauge, I never went lean, just blew the motor due to high compression and boost:rolleyes:

I've done the swap and I'll give my thought and suggestions. First off, Numbchux is right about it being a complete bolt in IF the car was originally 4wd. If not, depending on the year, it'll have a carrier bearing mount or not. I believe '88 and newer do but '87 and older do not. I fabbed one up out of some scrap steel. The list is as following: tranny clutch and flywheel tranny crossmember shift linkages pedal cluster speedo cable clutch cable driveshaft (or the first piece of a manual tranny shaft) instrument cluster interior center console plastic for cosmetic matching rear end if going from a 3.7 -> 3.9 axles depending on swap So firstly we need to know WHAT the car orignally is starting out with, engine, tranny, 4wd or 2wd. Second, the 3AT is the easier swap compared to the 4EAT. You'll need to put a jumper wire into the electrical connection at the AT shifter for the neutral safety switch. If you have cruise control, it'll disable it since the car will always think its in Neutral or Park so a secondary switch can be put in to make it think its in Drive but remember, if you forget to switch the switch back, it won't start. Also, a pointer. When installing the pedal cluster, remove the steering column, it'll make life easier. You'll need to unbolt the ECU from the steering column which is 3 nuts, take the 2 main bolts out that support the column and take out the pinch bolt in the u-joint in the engine compartment. It'll also have 3 or 4 electrical plus to undo but its nothing major. It sounds like a lot of work but really it only takes a few hours since its just a tranny swap with some extra parts.

Schaweet. This time we will have to hang out more then the little bit we did last time.

if it has a pedal fade, basically like you mentioned where it'll have pressure then gradually fade to the floor, it means you either have A) a bad brake flex line somewhere a bad fitting on a caliper like where the banjo bolt holds the line onto the caliper C) a bad master cylinder or a bad HH. You can help determine at which part of the system is causing the fade just by crmping off the solf lines that feed into the calipers by the connection between the hardline and the soft line which will let you know if its a line or the MC/HH. If you do this and the fade isn't present, then its a line, if not its a MC typically. You do this with the car off, not running. As for the locking up, also check the brake pads for contamination from grease or oil since it'll make the pads brittle and actually cause them to grab the rotor. Check for heat cracks as well in the rotors.

Maybe I'll drive one down for you;)