Caboobaroo

You don't want the parking brake on since it'll cause the rotor to be clamped, thus not giving you any room for possible movement. In gear is one thing but the parking brake is a bad thing:-p

So I'm an alignment guy and so I'll see about popping in here for some opinions. Really what the alignment center needs to do is determine WHAT is bent in there. You can determine this by using the Steering Axis Inclination Angle (I will refer to it as SAI) and the Included Angle (or IA). SAI is a measurement taken from an imaginary line from the center of the top of the strut to the lower ball joint and a perpendicular line from the center of the tire where it meets the ground. IA is the measurement between the first line I described (the top of the strut and lower ball joint) and the camber of the wheel. SAI + Camber = IA. These are the two angles I use to figure out what is bent under a car after an accident, wheather its with a curb or a pothole. With using these 2 measurments, you can figure out what is bent. Using SAI, you can determine if its bent either at the top of the strut, or down at the bottom such as the ball joint. The IA will help determine if its somewhere inbetween such as a bent strut itself or knuckle. With the way the setup is on these cars, I'm willing to bet its probably bent where the strut inserts into the knuckle, either the end of the strut itself or the knuckle. It would also help to have the specifications where everything is currently. I have a book in front of me with the factory specs in it so I can help you from there. At the very least, I'd need to know the SAI angle on both the left and right side. Really at this point in the game and what you've replaced, I'm leaning to a bent knuckle but also check the strut where it goes into the knuckle as well. If the upper strut tower got bent, you'd see where the paint would be flaking off of it where a crease would be or where the damage is. Its very unlikely thats the case though.

Its a very common problem on the gen 1 stage 2 cars. Since the headights are directly connected to the battery, corrosion actually will creep down the wire over time from the battery and never be noticed since its all under the insulation.

Shush you! Anyways I got it home today and wow, it has more power then my RX go figure! Here's a pic of it and in the backround, you'll see my sister's new OBS too. Rest of the pics can be seen here

Well I do want to try and keep it wih the air suspension if possible since it is all original and unmolested. I'll still shoot backwoodsboy a PM about the suspension though just to have back-ups if needed/when ready.

Good luck with that.

For some reason, cheap Subarus are attracted to me once again. I was good for about a year (since I moved from Wyoming to Washington) but its becoming a habit once again. Some of you remember the thread which is still in the last couple pages of my EA82 turbowagon I got from Corky. So earlier in the week, I'm perusing CL like usual and stumble across an ad for a '89 XT6. Just a make offer, bad suspension sort of deal. I called the guy after he replied back to me with his number and I went to look at it today after work. Needless to say, I'll have a XT6 on Sunday. Now for the good part. The car has 121k on the odometer, FT4WD 5-speed with locking center diff, working cybrid PS, working power windows, locks, non functioning AC (whoopy), new battery, new tires, a slight sagging headliner. All of this is added onto the fact this car is.. MINT! A few rock chips in the hood and two small dents on the whole car. Its black, bad air suspension but overall its in mint condition. Now here comes the even better part. $200:eek:

Originally it was. What happened is TWE made them, roughly 10 I think of both the headers and the downpipes, then a dealership bought them all and sold them to the few people that have them, or the few that are floating around on here. The dealer last time I knew, still had most of them sitting on a shelf.

Have you sold the engine yet from the Legacy? I was eyeballin it over on Legacy Central in the parts shed. I recently got a wagon if you are lookin for one. PM me and we can discuss details... Its turbo'd too!

Holy "I haven't heard from you in ages!" Batman. Welcome back buddy, its been quite awhile since we've heard from you.

It can be removed and put into the new handle. I have mucho experience with tearing doors apart and it would be a simple fix once we have parts:cool:

Welcome!

Well Ed does live at PAP so he might be able to get one for you next time he's there and we can put it in:cool:

Ken, can you guys rebuild some EJ20G heads for a build I'm doing?

Did you get that door handle fixed yet?

Yup thats how my FSM lists them from top to bottom

Well what sucks is you won't be able to get the body perfect unless you know someone who can work with lead filler so Bondo it is. Don't use it to fill a hole, use it to level out a surface once the dent has been pulled almost out.

Well I'll see if I can make a list of the tools I have in my box that I'd use on the car besides a welder and some metal. My tools are mainly name brand like Mac and Snap-On but I know Craftsman has a decent line up for an at home DIYer. First off, a small 90* air grinder (most of my tools are air) with a 2" pad and a box of 36 grit greem 3M roloc discs. This is the one I have and here's the discs and fitting Works good for taking it down to bare metal AND giving it a good surface for some mud (aka Bondo) to stick to. Also nice to give you some fresh metal to weld to. Second, you'll want to get a orbital sander. I spent $140 for mine off of ebay and that was for a nice one, cheaper ones can be had for less obviously. There is also two main types of pads that hold the sandpaper onto them as well; sticky and velcro. Typically, the sticky pad will come with the sander so then you can go buy a roll of paper, slap some on and go. Next, a slide hammer. My recommendation is to get a stud puller, not a regular slide hammer where you have to drill holes into the body for it to screw into. I've seen them at Harbor Freight for around $150 or so, mine I got from Snap-On and ran me a little over $500 for the kit. This will include the gun (like a hand held spot welder), a couple boxes of studs, the special slide hammer that claps onto the stud and typically destructions on how to use it. Its pretty simple to use, slide a stud into the tip of the gun, put it up to the bare metal inside the dent (since you used your grinder to make it bare), push the tip into the gun, pull the trigger and release just as soon as it clicks. You'd need to play around with it because if you hold it too long, it'll actually weld deep into the metal and when you cut the stud off, it'll leave a hole in the metal. A set of hammers and dollies. Another thing that can be had at Harbor Freight or Sears. Since you're not going into the prefession, I'd go to either of these two places to get them. Pretty straight forward too so I won't go into much detail. Next, is kind of obvious. Mud, Bondo, filler, whatever you want to call it. Go get some but make sure you get two different ones; base (which is more coarse and harder to get smooth) and glaze (used over the top of the "main" filler to make it smooth and give it a nice finish to primer over). Some cheap plastic spreaders do the job. I know Wal-Mart sells them:lol: Then you'll want some sanding blocks. 3M sells a good variety of them and with blocks, you don't want to go too cheap since this is what gives you a better, waveless look. I have a 3", 5" 8" and a 12", all in the Hookit (3M's name for the velcro system) style. You'll also want to get a soft block that is a half circle, I refer to them as a "taco pad" since you take a round disc, the same you'd use on a orbital sander, and wrap it around it. Now there's probably a bit more that I'm probably forgetting but these tools will be the ones you'd use the most. I did a full body resto on a '69 Mustang, spend 6 months working on it, my first bodywork project, and came out flawless. I had no prior body experience except for the ocassional "DIY in the driveway half @ss dent fill job/beat it out with a hammer" sort of deal.

No problem Ed. Always a pleasure helping out! Oh and the food was good MMMM. Now you need a couple pics of the new fender;)

When I decide to go down and help him out:-p I know you have the knowledge for welding. If you can, see about getting a smaller Lincoln welder with gas, 110 volt setup and do some practicing on some of the metal you cut out. You'll burn a few holes since the metal is real thin but once you get the hang of it, it should be pretty easy.

I'm going to guess that '78 and '81 are the same as far as wiring harnesses, plus I rebuilt a '81 harness as well so here we go. Lighting Switch -> 15A - Headlight (high beam) Lighting Switch -> 15A - Headlight (low beam) Lighting Switch -> 15A - Parking light, tail light, license plate light Ignition -> 15A - Back-up light, turn signal rear window defroster Ignition -> 15A - Ignition coil, fuel pump, temperature gauge, fuel gauge Battery -> 15A - Hazard light, horn, clock, dome light, stop light Ignition (ACC) -> 25A - Wiper washer, fan motor, heater motor, ciggy lighter, radio Battery -> 25A - Lighting switch Like I said, this is from the '78 FSM and should be the same as the '81 Brat harness. I do know they have a problem with the power wire coming from the battery to the last 25A fuse for the main power to the lighting switch. I actually ran in parallel with the original power wire to the switch another wire instead since mine had a problem in the center of it in the main loom.

I will, I forgot to get a couple with my phone before I parked it at work and my digi is dead. So tomorrow I'll get some pics on my phone and post them up. Also came with a NEW oilpump, a set of 4 studded snowies, extra 3AT, and the LAST, BRAND NEW set of red "4WD TURBO" decals in the world from Subaru. I love Corky sometimes:-p

No totally different monsters. The Legacy has a 4EAT automatic in it so it has a computer (the TCU) to control the shifting and such inside the tranny. Your car will have the 3AT which is a mechanical automatic so it doesn't have a TCU. Only way for it to work is to get the tranny computer, and wiring harness from the Legacy into the GL-10.

Well I went and picked it up today. I remember why I hate automatics in Subarus. It was guuuuutless. It did do a nice drift in 4wd in a gravel parking lot though:-p

If you're careful you can do it. I did it on my '78 Brat I had since the tall shifter meant I kept putting my knuckles awfully close to the stereo I had. I cut the threads off the top, cut out about 5" of rod, then welded the threads back on since I couldn't source up a 12x1.25 tap.