Caboobaroo

I do believe so but with the 3AT behind it, it makes it umm, very dog like. Oh and yes Andy, I think a lot of people were very interested in this car when it was for sale a couple years ago. That reminds me, I still gotta go figure out how/when I'm gonna pick it up:-\

I'll have to see if I can dig it out IF I still have it. I got it a couple years ago because I was going to get one for my old RX but never did:rolleyes: So IF I still have the info somewhere, I'll get it dug out and PM'd to you about it.

I think I still have the info for the dealership that bought these all originally and sold them to us. It was the dealer that WJM worked for years ago. I last heard they still had a few collecting dust somewhere

No problem, it'll sit there until it stops raining. I'm not gonna enjoy the first ride on my new bike in the rain:mad:

no not yet, I'm still figuring out a day I can go snag it since it has expired tags and a bad battery. Maybe this coming Sunday I'll get it and get some pics then since Wednseday I'll be getting my new Yamaha R6:banana:

No engine mods are going to be done whatsoever, just a manual swap, some 5-lug love (since I have 2 other sets of wheels and tires) and basically about it. Oh yeah, I'm also hoping to get the EJ22T from Corky as well since he has everything and then some for the conversion:headbang:

will have pics of it tomorrow if my camera is charged up by then Here's some pics from Corky's page...

I hope not.....:-\ I'm going to do a manual swap, 5-lug swap, tint the windows and a few other little things to it and keep it stock engine wise.

This car wasn't something I was going to pass up. Not really going to go into those details but it was a great deal. The only car I have right now is my "RX" which is still a SPFI coupe with RX drivetrain (minus the EA82T engine). Its going to get put down for a EJ22T engine and tranny this summer.

I'm getting a '85 GL 4wd turbowagon tomorrow. EA82T with 500 miles on a rebuilt, EA81T pistons and rebuilt heads (a complete CCR engine). It also has a rebuilt 3AT and another spare 3AT for it as well. Its tan with a brown interior and in decent shape. Has a few minor issues but nothing I can't fix. Oh yeah, I want to thank Corky for this one:banana: This is the one that has been sitting at his place for a few years now:-p

I have a few pics but access to a metal lathe is the only way to go with it. First off, grab yourself a good set of EA81 lower control arms w/o the radius rods on them. They bolt directly into the engine crossmember. Second, measure the radius rods of the gen 1 control arms (since they're welded on, its easier to make a new set then to try and salvage the originals but this is time for some adjustable ones). Get some solid round stock and cut to the same length as the originals, well maybe 1" longer so you can make the ends nice and flat on the lathe. After you get it chucked into a lathe, you'll need to measure the original one again because you'll see its tapered down where the threads are. You can make it about 1/2" longer then the original and you'll see why. After you get the end turned down to match the original, tap the whole thing. I think I used a 1/2"x20 die and used some standard nuts. If you make the tapered end longer then the original and tap the whole end, you should be able to get another nut on the inside (the side toward the control arm) and this will give you a caster adjustment! Now comes the tricky part. After you get it so the radius rod will bolt back onto the tranny crossmember, you'll need to weld it to the control arm that is also bolted into the car. Put a jack under the ball joint and put ALL the weight onto it like the tire was on the car and sitting on the ground. Make sure the knuckle and rest of suspension is bolted firmly into the car for this as well but loosen up the radius rod a little to let it move around. You'll also need to loosly bolt the swaybar to it as well. Now you'll see the radius rod is in pretty much the location where it'll need to be welded. I tack welded it to the control arm with a 110 volt welder, then welded it up nice with a 220 volt welder. Make sure the area where its getting welded to is nice a clean, and make sure there's no paint on it. After its welded, bolt it back into the car and make sure everything lines up where it should be. Then clean it all up, paint it and voila! EA81 suspension, knuckles and brakes! I have a couple pics of it for reference. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1302458277067339125ASFcJY http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1302458321067339125jGupIj http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1302458334067339125wDSRUY http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1302458350067339125NjfalY http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1302458386067339125UIqgYM http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1302458404067339125HAIQVL http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1302458436067339125sqyich And a little diagram I put together to help with a visual http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2138406940067339125EYBxZC

Austin, I have lots of gen 1 experience since I've had 2 and more parts then you can shake a stick at! I also might have a '76 FSM but I'll have to check. Let me know if you need help with anything. BTW, awesome find!

Adjusting the latch up or down a little will help with the tightness of the hood cable a little.

I know another guy that I went with got a portion of a center console from one of the Imps for $2.71:lol: Wasted more money in gas in his Legacy turbo touring wagon then he spent on the part:-\

There was a teal 4 door Impreza and a white Impreza as well. The teal one has a tan interior which is pretty nasty and the white one I don't remember too much about.

You know why this works correct? Older Subarus pre-EJ models have lots of positive camber, center of spec being in the 1.5 degree range. So in order to put the "footprint" of the tire back onto the ground, you must toe it out. Center of spec is around -.25 degrees. Unless the vehicle has had major damage to the front end, then camber is almost always not changed (unless you lift it) so setting the front toe is a breeze.

Got a good selection INCLDUING a Legacy TI wagon. Has a weird brown and maroon leather interior:-\

Went there today with another board member. Lots of good finds! EA81 sedan EA81(actually EA71) STD hatchback EA81 GL hatchback EA81 GL wagon "Pickle wagon" fully loaded with power windows, P/S, and A/C from what I saw, also d/r 4-speed lots of EA82 wagons and a couple sedans, only one 4EAT turbowagon though and no LSD, but does have rear discs still lots of '92-'94 Legacy wagons and a couple sedans one or two '95-'96 Legacy sedans ONE white XT, MPFI nonturbo spider intake

didn't see any gen 1s (the '90 '91 right?) just a lot of 92-94s. Was there today.

My dad has a Peugeot too! Just wish the damn thing ran:-\

s'ko, any news on the swap? I'm going the EJ22T route myself but I'm doing the DOHC swap to it as well:headbang:

Chux, how much do just your rims weight? 15.3 pounds each without tires:banana:

Make sure they're pointing forward or you'll make yourself go deaf instead of the guy you're buzzing at. Oh and yes, mine stick out further because I still have my A/C condensor... working R12 A/C FTW!:-p

Just do it and find out:-p Since you've been asking the same question for 4 years, its time to get some junk parts and start checking to see if it'll work. If not, then oh well, just throw the junk parts away but if they do.... get some new stuff and bolt er up!

When I went from the 15" steelies to the 16" WRX alloys, I noticed a bit of loss but I noticed I had some bad understeer in the car. Since I went from the 16" WRX alloys to these, there's more acceleration since this combo is probably about 3-5 pounds lighter then the stock WRX setup, plus no more understeer:clap: I do rub on the RR with a full tank of gas and 4 adults in the car though. Luckily my sister and brother-in-law just got an '08 Imp OBS so my car isn't going to be the shuttle anymore:banana: