Caboobaroo

AFAIK, I'm the only person on here that has sucessfully adapted gen 2 lower control arms into a gen 1. I had complete EA81 vented brakes, control arms and struts in my '79 wagon.

Thats a bunch of bull Todd. My alignment machine that I have at work (since I am the head alignment tech) has specs going back to the 40's for a lot of cars and I do have specs for the gen 1 Subarus as well. I also have a book that has the specs in it for older cars as well. Tell them to load up the gen 2 specs if for some reason they don't have gen 1 specs, and align the toe manually for it. Not hard but most people are either lazy or don't have any idea of how to go beyond using the computer:rolleyes:

For some reason the pics make them look bigger then they are. I had to roll the rear quarters a bit to get them to work good but with a full tank of gas and 4 adults, I don't have any rubbing:banana: I think I'm going to drop the front coils another 1/2" or so when I get a chance but this car handles amazing now with the new rims/tires. Plus it has more acceleration for the EA82 SPFI motor. I'm looking into putting the EJ22T into it but it'll be a hybrid with EJ257 rotating assembly and EJ20 heads:-p

Well I was running a narrow band air/fuel gauge in my car (not much of a tuning device but it gave me an idea) and it never went lean, always stayed in the stoich/rich area but it never went real rich. I'm going to go more to the hot intake air since I was running an intercooler but I hadn't put in a scoop yet, nor did it have a fan of any sort. Plus I think the radiator that was in the car at the time wasn't flowing as well as I thought so over heating was probably another issue as well.

Can't let Rob have all the fun. Will get more pics when my camrea is charged back up though:rolleyes: Enkei RPF-1s in 17x8, +45mm backspacing, 5x100 lug pattern with 215/45R17 Toyo Proxes 4s on them. Did some fender rolling in the back today since it was barely rubbing. Enjoy! BTW, these were taken at about 60mph the other day. Plus I have almost ZERO understeer now:banana:

Well I know up here we have a few Wesco's Body supplies but I'm willing to bet you can go to just about any bodyshop and they can either order you one from their supplier or would have a worn down one thats going to be replaced by one of them shortly for a new one. I have 1 new one, one just barely used one and one thats about to get tossed. Just to show what body guys have in their boxes;)

Ummm no because its much easier to heat the paint up and make it come up with the decal as well. A lot more time consuming too.

for a decent street car, the TD04 is awesome (I'm willing to bet Turbone will chime in soon). Larger then stock but doesn't have much more lag then stock, flows better and gives you more volume. Just watch how much boost you run:dead: Cams are kind of the same thing. If you're planning on driving it everyday, then the 260 cams will be good since the 272 cams are pretty monsterous for an everyday beast. I'd use those more on a car going to the track then on a daily driver.

You can actually get just the wheel at a body store. Then chuck it into an electric drill and voila! I have just the wheel that I chuck into my pneumatic Mac drill though:-p

What Brian said, also known in the body industry as an eraser wheel. Its basically like a giant pencil eraser in a wheel form.

I sawwy, I was getting a bit sunburnt.... Needless to say, I'm a little red on the face and arms:rolleyes:

Thats correct, I did do an EA82T build with the SPFI shortblock but since it was running 12 pounds of boost and 9.5:1 compression ratio, bad things happened to the pistons and it didn't last too long. I also did another EA82T build with the stock EA82T shortblock but had the oilpump give out of it. For the TD04, the stock header could be made bigger for it but the stock one I had with mine worked pretty good. I figure it helps with getting the TD04 to boost a little sooner as well. Also, I was running a 3" bellmouth downpipe on mine and I got it to fit without any modifications. If I was to build another EA82T again, this is what I figure. EA82T shortblock EA82T gen 3 heads, full port and polish Spider intake with Nissan 280ZX turbo injectors and AFPR A mild 260 cam TD04, full port and polish with 3" turbo back exhaust oil cooler STi top mount intercooler some sort of fuel management system like MegaSquirt or similar I had most of this in my old RX but of course I didn't have the fuel management system nor an oil cooler so I blew up a couple engines. It can be done but will take quite a bit of patience to get it right.

Hopefully you got some cause I know a few other people did when they were like "OMGWTF!?!?!":-p

check the switch on top of the steering column, sounds like you bumped it. Easy fix:cool:

I just got some new rims on my RX as well but I gotta wait to take pics since my camera is dead:dead:

Probably. I also have the red supplement book for the Brat in '77 as well:-p

if the engine wasn't originally a spyder motor, then no need to use the intake off of it, just use the stock intake off of your car since it has all the electrical in the correct spots. The motor physically the same through the years, automatic or manual. I used 3 different motors in my old '89 RX, ranging from an '85 to a '92 SPFI motor. Engines are internally balanced so flywheels and crank pulleys aren't an issue. I was running a carb'd crank pulley on my EA82T to help get rid of some of the rotational mass.

If you want a first mod, get yourself a turbo timer before anything else. It keeps the motor running for a specified time after you've shut it off to let the turbo, engine,and oil a chance to cool down a bit before shutting off. If not, then oil will coke inside the turbo and like GD said, it'l be garbage. For the intercooler, the easiest way to help you know where it'll need to be plmbed in, is to remember that it will replace the "4wd turbo" plenum on top of the motor.

Awesome project you've undertaken. The only advice I can give you is about the axles. Make sure you soak the hubs where the axle is splined into it with a bunch of PBlaster if it won't come off. I've never had an issue with the front axles not coming out of the wheel bearings though, just hit them hard enough with a hammer and POP:banana:

If you can get a seal thats already out and in tact, best thing to do is soak it in automatic trany fluid to try and revive the seal to make it flexible again. Same thing goes for interior pieces that were originally vinyl or the likes that have become hard form sun (like dashboards). Using petroleum jelly on them and let sit for a few days, softens it right back up.

Oh and if you need anymore pinout questions answered for '86 and '87, I have both years of FSMs for them:-p

looks like the FSM says that there is a 4 pin connection on the tranny. If you hold that pin connector with the tab sticking up (the one that locks the tranny end to the main harness), the two wires on the right, labeled "G" and "GW" are for the back up lights (Green and Green/White). The other two wires labeled "B" and "LR" (Black and Blue/Red) are for the 4wd light. These two are the two wires on the left side of the pinout (also known in the FSM as "Pinout F59"). Hope that helps Jerry!

Probably sits in a seal. Its going to be hard as a rock and needs to be replaced, duh so you can actually cut it out instead of trying to save the seal. The seal can be cut from the inside around where it rolls over the pinch weld and lifted out of the front of the car. Having a couple if friends is handy to help take it out instead of having just you or you and one other person trying to lift it out while someone else puts pressure from the inside after its cut.

I'm at a creative block currently. Everytime I look at the rear quarter, I get lost on how I should cut it to widebody it out. I'm gonna get pissed:mad:

'85 and '86 are shorter and the turn signals are flush with the bumper compared to the '87-'94 bumper. Here's the difference... '85 style [/url] '89 style