Caboobaroo

Take it slow. Old rubber parts are going to be fairly brittle. Replace all three rubber coolant and oil hoses along with the exhaust gaskets and the copper crush washers for the little oil line. Sometimes removing the air box helps with room to get at the lower hoses when removing the turbo. Be careful with the rubber inlet hose when installing the new turbo as they can rip easily.

Being a 2002 LGT, it's probably a MAP based system, like the 2001 Outback I had issues with.

I'm going to say that it probably needed a new flywheel if you replaced the clutch and resurfaced the flywheel. If the flywheel had gotten too hot, resurfacing it only hides the problem. I've run into this issue a couple times on the pull type clutches and have had it bite me when I didn't replace them.

I had one recently that would hunt for idle every once and awhile. Had similar irradic fuel trim readings and once it would smooth out, they were normal. Turned out to be a bad rear oxygen sensor. Also did the front one as that was my original thought.

Sounds like you have the common broken hatch Hanes wiring. It breaks in the accordion boot at eye level with the hatch open, on the right side. It can be repaired it it's one or two broken wires but any more then 4 or 5 and I'd recommend getting a new harness.

I had a similar issue with mine years ago. Turned out to be a partially plugged radiator. Ended up breaking the upper inlet off on the freeway on my way to work. Swapped in another one and my issues went away.

Only other thing I would do to check for a possible cracked head. With the vehicle cold, usually sitting overnight, I would put a cooling system pressure tester on the radiator, apply 16psi of pressure and watch to see if it drops. Let it sit for a half hour with pressure on it, and see if it's dropped. If it has, remove the pressure tester, install the radiator cap and start it up. If it had roughness for a few seconds, chances are it has cracked.

After the engine has been ran, there wasn't much evidence on the plug to show it was consuming coolant. I will usually get the car to operating temp, drive it for 10 miles on the freeway, pull over and have someone hold RPMS up at about 3,000 and look for bubbles in the overflow bottle.

Have you had any roughness on cold start up? I've had to replace a few heads on the newer EZ30 due to cracks between the valves. Typically dumps some coolant into the cylinder when cold and then starts to seal the crack when it warms up. Eventually they can start pumping exhaust hades into the cooling system and have an overheat.

All the body cladding snaps onto the doors. They are Legacy/Outback specific, along with the fenders. For the lift, if you want everything from the Outback, you'll needs the front crossmember blocks, bolts, rear transverse bushings, steering column, column coupler, struts, transmission crossmember, driveline, rear subframe blocks with bolts, trailing arm brackets, rear shocks, bumps tops, rear upper control arms and there's two brackets from the subframe to the body of the car. I'm actually doing the opposite to my Outback currently. I'm unlifting it because I'm like that!

I have seem multiple failures with Fel Pro head gaskets in the 2.5s. I would steer clear of them as they will eventually breech the coolant passage into a cylinder, causing the coolant to be pushed out, cylinder misfire and overheating.

I ended up with a FWD 92-95 SVX non ABS master cylinder that is a 1 1/16th" bore diameter. Since I grabbed a new Centric brand, it also came with the resevoir. I have yet to swap it as the XT6 has been pushed to the back burner for the winter, again...

These cars have a tendency to plug up radiators with older age. I usually use an infared thermometer to check for cold spots. If it's original, might not be a bad idea to replace it. Also, aftermarket thermostats can cause issues as well. Get a new one from the dealer. Good luck!

I picked up the non ABS FWD SVX master cylinder as my hill holder is leaking and I was planning on deleting it. The one I picked up is a Centric part and came with the resevoir. Not having a garage for all my stuff, I have yet to dig it out and swap it over.

Yes, in order to remove the pinion shaft from the transmission, the tailshaft housing has to be removed. Pan removal isn't required for this job but if it's seeping or leaking, now is a good time to reseal it. I also will replace the rubber o-ring on the wiring harness with the pan reseal. But I agree, probably the transfer tube is leaking.

Most auto part stores have a conductive adhesive that is made exactly for this issue. I've used it before in the past with good results.

Nope. You might be able to fit a 15" wheel but a 14" won't fit.

I will also add. 22B flares are different then the WRC flares.

Take the key out and disconnect the negative battery cable. Put the key back in, turn it to ON. Reconnect the battery cable and see if it starts.

Have to use the FWD stuff for the rear, front stuff can be either XT6 or EJ with the proper XT6 bits.

My wife and I bought ours at 95k miles and has 153k currently. I did the 90k service, new inner axle boots and some brake work to start with. Then ended up replacing the TPS and harness for it as they are known for issues. I've also done front and rear brakes and other random maintanence stuff as well. Have not had any issues with oil leaks which they are common for but I do have a bit of an external coolant seep at a head gasket. The car has been super reliable with one instance where it got a bit warm in the middle of summer, 100 degree weather, AC on and climbing a good steep incline.

I've seen issues with cheap Chinese idle air controllers. Had exactly the same issue a few weeks ago on a Forester. Customer put a cheap IAC on it, swapping it with a good used OEM one and voila, problem went away!

The water pump has the front mount thermostat because the JDM engine originally had an equal length exhaust manifold on it. It came out in from of the engine before heading back. The heads could be the hydraulic lifter type like the USDM had in 1996 only. I have a coupe of these engines, I should tear one down eventually Also, regarding the pistons, I believe the JDM engine also had a slightly higher compression ratio. Probably due to the higher octane fuel they run over there but that's all speculation.

Just curious as to why the rods can't be machined to accept the larger bushing?

Mine is the same, digital readout on the case but I'm still planning on running a separate gauge for simplicity. I don't do any offloading though, my XT6 isn't really made for all that. I haven't really driven the car enough with it installed though to noticed a rise in my mpg but it will get some miles put on it once the weather warms back up.