Caboobaroo

It supports the 2 piece driveshaft. It bolt to the underside of the car inside the tranny tunnel.

Yeah I'm not going too extreme, just enough to make it look different and so I don't rub with some 17's. That and maybe some staggered offset rims too;)

I recently went to the junkyard and got some new parts for the RX that I've been needing/wanting. Newest addition was all the vacuum stuff for the center diff, front fenders and an '86 front bumper. Got the bumper on today and started hacking apart one of the fenders today as well. Sorry about the crappy cell pics but my digital camera died at the first pic:-\ Enjoy! Can you see what I'm doing? Widebody conversion, woo!

Flywheel, clutch, tranny, driveshaft, rear suspension with diff and mustache bar, mustache bar mounts, shift linkages, center console, instrument cluster if you want to get fancy and wire it in so it works, and that should be it. Since its new enough, it should have the carrier bearing mount already on the body where the carrier bearing will bolt to it but the mustache bar mounts will need to be drilled out. I drilled mine out from the bottom of the car all the way up inside the car and dropped some long bolts through the holes and bolted it up that way.

Firstly with rust issues, make sure you cut about 1" beyond the last bit of rust that you're cutting out. This will help prevent the spread of it. Secondly, I'm willing to bet that there's rust on the strutural part of the body behind the sheetmetal so some sort of rust preventitive would be best or something like Por-15 or the like.

first and foremost, are you sure its from the REAR alignment being out? If the tire had previous alignment wear from the front, it'll actually continue to wear to the alignment pattern after its been rotated around. If not, then the rear toe is significatly toed out. Since rear toe has enough adjustment to it, it would cause outside shoulder wear if its toed out. Best advice, go get a four wheel alignment done on it. Before having the alignment done though, check the front tires and make sure you check the tie rod ends, ball joints and other alignment sensitive front end parts because worn parts will cause the alignment to be thrown out as well.

Thanks I'll remember that;) Only thing thats NOT RX about mine is the fact that it doesn't have the gastly EA82T in it, everything else is from an RX so neener neener neener:-p

fix0red:lol:

Great to see you again to Spark. Gotta love the transformation from the last time you saw my car:-p

Awesome Sparks, see you there! In my Hornet wannabe

I like to check mine out every time I do an oil change. If you notice the belts becoming cracked, discoloration, or oil residue on them, then its time to replace them. If an interval is needed, depending on the belts, with NEW OEM ones, you can do the 75k interval I think it is? Cheaper belts need to be replaced more often... I bought a timing belt kit with idler and tensioners off of ebay for $55 or so and its been awesome in the 1500 miles I've put on them. WHen I did them though, I pulled the motor and replaced a bunch of seals/gaskets, replaced the radiator hoses, clutch and did a cooling flush and oil change. I figure if you keep up on the maintanence of the motor, it'll last forever. I put my EA82 SPFI through its paces and it doesn't complain and this includes high revving, twisty road sprited driving.

Spark, you plannin on coming out and enjoying yourself with us? Always a pleasure having you around to gawk at the hot chicks in Toyota Celicas:lol:

maybe I'll stop being lazy and finally wire up my diff lock... nah:-p

What I always do when I use Seafoam in a carb'd vehicle (have used it in numerous cars from a '78 Brat to my old '78 Ford Bronco) is to pour it down the carb but don't kill it using the Seafoam. After you're done running the Seafoam through the carb, take a rag , rev the motor up, and stuff the rag into the top of the carb causing the engine to die from lack of oxygen. Then start it up;) It prevents the Seafoam from sticking to the plugs causing them to foul up and not start like in your situation. It also helps suck anything out of the jets of the carb too.

Happy birthday Mick:popcorn:

Well I replaced the alternator with a new one from Napa and go figure, it works:rolleyes: Glad I got a lifetime warranty though so if it should fail between now and EJ time, free replacement:banana:

I know tailgatewagon dropped at EJ22 into a gen 1 stage 1 wagon a couple yeas ago as a test fit. Had to modify the crossmember to accomidate the wider engine mount stance but said it "barely" fit between the frame rails.

I had a set of Street 260s in my old '89 RX EA82T and there was a noticable difference. Shifted my powerband up a bit so it would still have decent power at 6k rpms.

Yellow tops are made to handle the bigger power drains in cars with audio systems (like mine), offroad lights/winches and such or the combination of both (my Toyota). The red top is good for "better then a stock" battery but Optima doesn't like to warranty them out when they've been used in cars with massive power drains. Even though I work at Les Schwab and get a discount on them, they get a little more picky on the warranty of them:-\

Well I need to do an alternator upgrade for now since I'll eventually be going EJ with the car. I could rebuild the alternator but I'll end up killing it again since I do have a pretty decent stereo in the car. I've heard about using a Nissan Maxima alternator from an '86 on it so tomorrow I'm going to get one from Napa and give it a shot. Then an Optima Yellow Top:banana:

PSH, after going through 3 EA82T motors in one car, I got sick of them real quick

Well I kinda hoped it wasn't my alternator since I had replaced it before since it kinda went out as well (Christmas time on the dash) but I'm going to replace it with a new unit instead of a used one. Also going to replace the battery as well with the Optima yellow top. Gotta love discounts from work. Oh and Tizzle, the machine doesn't work when you can't get the car to it:-\

And put it where?

So I've been having this problem where I'll only be putting out like 11.5 volts at idle when the car finally warms up. So a couple days ago, I have a car full of people coming back from Seattle (downtown in about 30 minutes from my place) and I notice my wipers are going real slow. Look down to my voltage gauge and its way below 12 volts, then look at my stereo since it has a built in voltage gauge and its only ready 11 volts at 3500 rpms. It slowly dies in about 15 miles to just over 9 volts where I can feel the car start sputtering at higher rpms so I know its time to get off the freeway and park it in a parking lot. Tried to start t couple times after shut off and its still at 9 volts, then it won't start up again. STart calling around to see if my buddy can come pick all 4 of us up, then after I getoff the phone (about 10 minutes later), I jump in the car and start it up again. 13 volts at idle. I drive home and it never goes below like 12.6 at idle. Park the car for the day because I'm pissed. So this happened 2 days ago. Yesterday I go out to go to work and I start it up. 11.8 volts at idle when its cold. Decided that since I only live like 5 minutes from work, I'll make it. Had only dropped down to 11.5 volts by the time I got there. So at the end of the day, I go out, start her up, same thing, 11.7 volts or so at idle when cold. I get on my way home, have a little traffic to deal with but coming up to my place, I look down at the stereo and the voltage is slowly dropping off. Get to my place with it sputtering, make it up the hill and park it. So now I'm pissed, no Christmas lights on the dash and me going:confused: :confused: . I'm thinking it might be a battery issue since the battery is about 5 years old and its gotten a hell of a beating from being in my lowered RX.

Good luck finding a coupe with black interior...... Heres another shot of both my coupes before I scrapped my black RX...