Caboobaroo

That would work for me since it would give me a couple weeks to get my other STi seat installed, possibly my bodykit, new exhaust gaskets, and some other little do dads to make it stand out;)

So now that we figured a Sunday would be best, how about a date? It needs to be a couple weeks out, still have a few things I need to get done to mine before I'd want to bring it.

I need to hang out with you guys more often.... I get no looks in the RX:-\

I've seen another car like the one you describe. It was an '85 sedan with the part time dual range 5-speed, EA82T no rear LSD, checkerboard seats and digi dash. It was kinda a grayish blue coloe and only said "SUBARU" on the trunk. I'm willing to bet it was an optioned car my friend.

I'll see you when you get here! It'll be Sunday but I'll roll the RX down there, its just an hour away:-p

I was wondering when you'd chime in!

I have a complete 5-lug conversion on my car right now but I am looking to get the rear backing plates for the EJ rear disc brakes and ebrake setup. What would you charge for just those along with a set of rear hubs? I wonder if we can get someone in the states to get 5 sets or so and sell them for about the same price after shipping as from you? Just a thought...

SPFI block doesn't have the third PCV on it like the MPFI and turbo cars but does have the threaded insert for the knock sensor. I had mine at 12psi but holding it to the floor for too long caused it to blow the rings out:rolleyes:

Dicks then drive to Alki! Must be on a Sunday though guys, I almost always work on Saturdays:-\

LOL!

downpipe, screw the stock WRX one, you can get decent bellmouth 3" pipes for $160. I picked up a new Megan Racing a couple years ago for $150 shipped from a vendor on NASIOC. intercooler piping. Samco y-pipe hose and IC -> TB hose can be had for reasonable. Makes custom piping a whole lot easier. I have many pics of my old setup as well. Also used a AEM cold air intake from a WRX that I made work too. boost controller, manuals suck, end of story. Go electronic. Also get a turbo timer too.

The PCV port on top of the motor on the passenger side, next to the knock sensor is what he's referring to.

its much easier to pull the engine to do a clutch job. I'm going to guess that you have an SPFI EA82 correct? I just did a clutch, reseal, coolant flush with new hoses, and timing belts with tensioners and idler on mine and I took my time doing it, total of 6 hours from start to finish. Besides, its easier to leave the tranny in the car to do the axles in my opinion.

Happy birthday Paul!

I go there to visit every couple months since I grew up there and my parents still live there. Hondasucks lives in Corvallis and works at John and Phils (the Subaru dealer).

LOL! :lol:

I need a bull************ flag now! My car would make it there and back without any problems now, unlike the old RX Jeff. I just drove it 8 hours round trip to see my parents in Oregon at 80 the whole way without a hitch:-p

Its on a Sunday, I can make it... Damn thats right, I live in Washington... or there would be a good turnout of RX's there:-p

Maybe if I get a chance, I can come down this Sunday and give you a hand. I've found that you're supposed to disconnect the vac line from the disty and plug it before setting base time. My '78 FSM says to do that with both the vacuum advance and retard (gen 1 sort of thing) so I'd imagine it would be the same for the EA81 as well. Try that, you may be in luck. I know when I swapped the 2wd EA81 disty into my '78 Brat I unplugged it from the disty and put a bolt into it before I timed it and it worked.

If the outer tie rod ends have no movement in them (as far as the ball and socket having any lateral movement between them) then they're still good, even if there's grease coming out of them. Usually ones that have been replaced with aftermarket will have a greasable fitting on them and so just regrease them to keep them up to snuff. As for the rack, the FSM says that the valve on the rack (where the steering column goes into the rack is a valve assembly) can be removed and if leaking, replaced with a new one. If the one on your old rack isn't leaking from there, best idea would be to remove it and put it into the new rack but be careful of the seals because if damaged, you have the get the valve from the dealership and I'm willing to bet its not cheap:dead:

IIRC Zefy is running a RX trans as well:-p

I compared a stock set of the Miata shocks to my stock RX shocks tonight since I did the AGX's up front. The Miata shocks had like 50k miles on them whereas my RX shocks have 220k on them. My RX ones seemed to be better as far as recoil then the Miata ones in stock form so I replaced my bushings with some poly bushings we had laying around and dropped the back end back down to where it was before winter. Seems to do pretty nice now. I also noted that the REAR Miata shocks will not work since the length inbetween the pressed on ring where the upper spring perch sets on, isn't as long as the EA82 rear. So you're using the front Miata shocks on the rear then? If so, then time to get to ordering again!

I'm currently running Impreza stuff combined with XT6 stuff for my 5-lug. Up front I have the XT6 lower control arms, swaybar and outer tie rod ends. Impreza stuff is from a '96 and consists of the knuckle, hub, strut, and axle along with all the brake parts. I have 6k miles on my swap right now and no issues.

Is this because you removed the bushing? I'll see if I can help out with this little quest since I'm getting ready to do this myself. I have a set of rear Miata shocks at work and I'm going to throw those in until I get my AGX's for the rear and maybe I can help come up with something.

Well I'd be doing the RHD conversion the same time I go with an EJ20 so the EJ would be set in stone if I follow through with this. Cost would be about $5k on the conversion which is cheaper then a version 7 STi drivetrain.