Caboobaroo

The engine, drop some thin engine oil or some MMO into the cylinders via the spark plug holes. This will help break free the pistons if the motor doesn't turn over by hand. It will also keep it lubed for initial start up. Then disconnect spark and fuel and crank over until you have oil pressure. Once you get oil pressure. hook up spark and fuel, then start it up. Let it run at 2500 rpms for 20 minutes or so, will smoke like a dog from sitting and from the oil in the cylinders so don't be too worried. After the initial start up, be easy on it for 1000 miles or so before you really start getting on it, but also make sure its not a 2 minute drive to the store. Make sure it reaches operating temp before shutting it off. As for the tranny is it leaking from sitting or was it leaking while it was driving? Sometimes seals will seep while it sits and would be ok once they're warmed up from driving and such.

So today I started the fun of stuffing my set of '05 STi seats into my car. Actually not too bad considering I didn't know what to expect. Pic will come when I do the driver seat since I was too busy trying to get the passenger side to work. I started off by removing the seat rails from both the RX seat and the STi seat. Since the RX seat rails are bolted vertically to the floor and the STi rails are bolted parallel to the floor of the car, I had to make some tabs that I later welded to the RX seat rails. I made 4 tabs that would be welded to the RX rails but of course, had to take the seat in and out a few times in order to get the height right, along with making it level. The seat back is much taller then the RX seat but the base only sits maybe 1/2" higher then stock. Had one of the guys from work try it out (6'5", 250lbs.) and he had to recline the seat back pretty far but said it didn't feel like it was really sitting too high. Also discovered that in order to do this to the driver seat, you need the seat rails from a non GL-10 or RX seat, you know, the one with the height adjuster that telescopes from the side. It directly connects to the seat rails and well, isn't needed. Granted you can keep it but there's no real point in keeping it since the seat will be the 1/2" higher and the back of the seat might actually hit the roof of the car.

Actually nevermind Phil I fugred it out. Can't wait to see the 6 though when its done;)

Before I stripped it Currently Air dam shaved front fenders

Nice job Phil. First a question for you (since I know you've dealt with both). Are the STi seats and your leather Legacy seats the same as far as the mounting point (like would the STi seats bolt into the Legacy or vise versa?). Reason I ask is because I have a set of STi seats waiting to go into my coupe and if its simple enough, then I can slam them in with much problem.

Short and sweet, no. The '77-'81 Brats are the gen 1 style whereas your wagon is a gen 2 style. Brats made from '82 on, wagons and hatchbacks made from '80 on, will fit though. Brat doors and hatch doors are longer then wagon doors of any generation.

I took an '84 Brat and pushed a '75 Ford F-100 4x4, 360 4-speed for like 4 miles. Over a couple small hills but left it in 3rd gear for the whole time (except for stopping at lights) until I got it to Hondasuck's house.

They were made with the intention of being used behind built EA82Ts, mainly 4wd/AWD since a stock clutch would get smoked in the first hard launch from a light. Ask me how I know:rolleyes:

I've wondered about them as well since neither my '79 wagon, the old '78 parts wagon or my '78 Brat had them.

^^^ Exactly what mine is

Yup, EJ is the way to go. Mine is getting swapped this spring with the help of another board member:banana:

If you have SPFI, then its not turbo. All turbo'd cars have the MPFI whereas my '87 coupe has SPFI (and is kinda gutless cause of no boost)

I wonder if the gen 1 stage 2 FWD 5-speed would swap into that. Then you could have the luxury of the 5-speed and a 3.9 final drive which would be better on the highway.

Taken from ny '86 FSM. Checking ignition timing Before adjusting ignition timing, disconnect the vacuum hose(s) of advancer from the distributor to stop the vacuum advance function of the distributor, and, while checking ignition timing, plug the end of the vacuum hose(s) with small rod. (Except SPFI) For TURBO models disconnect the black connector (8 pole connector) between distributor and knock control unit. Connect the timing light to the #1 plug wire, adjust engine idle speed and illuminate timing marks. For an '86 turbo car, it must be one of the following Manual transmission - 25 degrees BTDC@700rpm Automatic transmission - 25 degrees BTDC@800rpm

Yeah I think so but its been long swapped...

I believe Galen's running an RX gearbox (or a regular EA82T Full Time gearbox)

If you need any more info on the older engines, let me know since I got FSMs to cover them all basically (even your FF1)

yup you need to get some LSD additive, I think you can get some from the dealer IIRC.

Yes, if its a dual range, then it could be on of two 3.7 final drive trannys. First one being the '85 '86 which is part time 4wd dual range, came in the RX sedans and some GL-10 turbo sedans depending on the options. Second 3.7 tranny is the known RX gearbox which is the full time version with the locking center diff, blah blah blah. If its neither of these two trannys then its a 3.9 final and you'll toast either it or the rear LSD if they're not geared together.

I just foun d the specs for the '74 1400 as well. When I get a few minutes, I'll start putting together something that will have all the spring specs out of the FSMs I have for future reference.

So this is coming from my '78 FSM, reprint in '82. These are the factory specs for the EA71 in '78... Outer spring Inner Spring Free Length 48.20mm (1.898 in) 48.65mm (1.915 in) Solid height (fully compressed) 29.5mm (1.161 in) 25.6mm (1.008 in) Tension/spring height intake 18.13-20.87 kg 8.93-10.27 kg (39.97-46.01 lb) (19.69-22.64 lb) /39mm (1.54 in) /37mm (1.46 in) exhaust 41.3-47.5 kg 19.53-22.47 kg (91.05-104.71 lb) (43.06-49.54 lb) /31mm (1.22 in) /28mm (1.10 in) Squareness 2.1mm (.083 in)

you got it from that RX sedan didn't you? Bastard... I was gonna snatch that up tomorrow:rolleyes:

Why not try and use some taller valve springs? See how the springs from the 1300, 1400 and 1600, hell even the 1800 compare to the 1100... might be taller then which you can use those valves without having to mod them at all.

Oooo pretty! I <3 my stage 2 clutch:banana:

Umm no... not after the incident I had in my old black RX..... I drove my buddy's twin to this car yesterday. Holy ungodly amounts of power for being stock with a TBE and a ProTune ECM. 301hp and 345ft-lbs of torque:burnout: