Caboobaroo

Galen, now that you did that, it needs an alignment. The 3 bolts that you took out of the trailing arms are actually the rear toe adjustments. So, better get on that whole alignment thing. I gotta do the back end of my coupe for the same reason. My rear toe is out of spec and its a real b**** to adjust it:rolleyes:

Ebay might be the best place... also check www.thepartsbin.com

What if you unbolt the engine crossmember from the car and the suspension that bolts to the unibody and drop out the engine/tranny/suspension as one unit and strip it down outside the car? Just a thought...

Mac axle tool is PN LT-730. Also lifetime warranty. I know cause I have one at work and the tip broke on it. Got a new one when he came around a couple weeks ago.

Yup thats the motor I was running it on. I must have missed the fact that he was running the flapper door MAF setup instead of the newer hotwire MAF setup. I think I need to go to bed...:-p

Hmmm very interesting... Anyways, I finally saw this and read it through. I still fail to see why people have issues with the spyder intake. I mean, I took one from a natually aspirated XT and made it work on my EA82T without any problems after I fine tuned the engine itself. I used the complete intake including the spyder TPS and wiring harness, added in the knock sensor since the NA MPFI didn't have it, made sure it was pinned correctly to the EA82T main harness and popped it together. Didn't have any issue with it... Maybe I was lucky? The only problem I ever had was I kept smoking engines but thats a given. I was even running an atmospheric blow of valve and it didn't stumble or get any issues with that either.

First off, it depends on what engine the donor body has in it. If its a turbo'd model, then forget it. SInce you say its an '89, I'll take a stab and say its an SPFI EA82. You can swap the motor and fuel injection setup into an older carbed EA82 rig or swap just the fuel injection over to an even older model EA81 rig but its a bit more work. I agree with Zyewdall. If you can find a nice one on the west coast, spend a few extra bucks and have it shipped. There's a few guys on the east coast who do that regularly it seems.

Orly? And where do you hide it? PoorManImpreza - I'd definatly be willing to see those plans! I have access to a welder, metal and some other fancy doodads like a die grinder, lots of my own air tools and such. Lets get together in PM land and discuss plans and such and see what we can come up with since I'd like to keep doing most of this customization of my car to being done myself instead of sending things off to have them modified. Galen - whenever you're in town, hit me up. I usually don't work after 7pm or so and never on Sundays. Heck, who knows, after my EJ swap, you might inherit an RX tranny;)

Leeroy, the ballast resistor is connected to the positive on the coil and the external voltage regulator. Its a simple removal of the wiring for it asl well since it doesn't go very far. Its spliced into both wires so its a matter of unsplicing it out of the harness.

Some of you also have to remember, like Dave's swap, you can get a front cut v3 or v4 STi and put it in there and it still be an STi drivetrain, only with the 5-speed that was offered then. The 6-speed is just something that people in the US associate with when it comes to the STi since we never got the earler versions, only ones with the 6-speed DCCD tranny. Oh and Dave, I'm going to be shooting you a PM.

Well whats nice is the fact that I have everything already to do the swap (minus the brakes and backing plates right now) for it to bolt on. Only mod I need to have done is the rear backing plates and thats to bolt them to the trailing arms. The front will bolt directly onto the knuckles I have and the rear, once the backing plates are done and on there, bam, bolt it all together using the XT6 rear hubs. Then in the spring, here comes the engine swap:banana: And then next summer, my collection will be getting another STi:burnout:

Another thing that can happen is the seal around the base of the speedo cable can break where it goes into the tranny and it'll actually suck up some gear oil to cause it to read differently. It should just be lubed with a thin oil like mineral oil. Best thing to do is to replace it because it'll eventually break on you and leave you without a speedo/odometer. I think they can be had on ebay for pretty cheap.

Yes, I know my coupe isn't an RX BUT with everything done to it, its basically an RX minus the dreaded the EA82T. So some of you have noted my current thread over on NASIOC but thought I'd share it here as well. For Christmas, I'm buying myself a set of Brembos and rotors for an '04 STi (5x100) and will be putting them onto my RX STi. Anyways the swap is going to be a direct bolt onto the front knuckles since they're off an Impreza but the back is going to be a bit more difficult. I'm going to be getting the backing plates for an STi modified to bolt onto the trailing arms so then I can also have a rear drum parking brake so I can park on hills:banana: The other option was a spendy kit to use special rotors that have the rotor size of the '04 but have the hat size where the parking brake is, the size of a WRX, plus some special brackets to raise the calipers up. I can't wait to get them and convert, then its off to 17" rims:-\

Wow not too shabby. I just recently picked up a bunch of old Subaru FSMs from the great bay of E for the FF1s, for the 72 or so but still it has lots of great info in them. Lemme know if there's anything I can help with like that harness:banana:

Its supposed to do that. In the wintertime, the defroster will kick on the AC compressor because it keeps the system lubricated since you're not using the AC during the winter. I believe it also helps pull the moisture out of the air inside the car as well but not sure on that one.

If you're new to turbos, go get the book "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. Its a great book to learn everything but this books is not for the faint of heart as they go over every detail of turbos. Also known as the Bible of Turbos.

Under the bottom of the back seat, right in the center, there should be a rubber plug. Pull it out and there's actually a bolt down there on the rear torsion bar tube to adjust the rear torsion bar ride height. In the front, the adjustments will be on the base of the spring perches on the bottom of the coils.

you might want to see about possibly getting it media blasted to help uncover anything else that might be hiding. It also makes rust repair a little easier as well. Looks good otherwise! Oh and I also bought a few FF1 manuals off of ebay. Wanted some for my FSM collection

well if you have a scanner and can scan the wiring diagrams of it to me, I'll take a look and we can probably work something out:banana:

Awesome Steve! If you need the wiring harness rebuilt, let me know. I've done a couple for gen 1's already and the FF1 shouldn't be too much different.

I heard XSNRG used the XT6 rack with all the regular EA82 powersteering setup, no cybrid from the XT6.

Here are some ways to check for worn parts since I do it everyday for work. Remember, removing a ball joint, tie rod end or a strut will corrupt the alignment sometimes so make sure to get it checked when you're done. Ok, jack the car up by the control arm so the weight of the car is on the control arm and the suspension isn't sagging. Make sure both wheels are off the ground as well. First off, wiggle the wheel side to side while someone (or yourself) looks under it. Look right at the outer tie rod ends and see if there's any play in them. Next off, to check the balljoints, grab the bottom of the tire and lift up while pushing the top of the tire in. If you feel any play, its probably a ball joint and needs to be replaced. These are going to be the two main steering components that will wear. Now bearing movement is a 0 tolerance and you will check this when checking for the ball joint. If you noticed there's movement but the ball joint isn't moving, I'll bet money its the bearing. Also, like said before, check the castle nut, IIRC should be at 140ft-lbs for torque. If all of this checks out and you still have a vibration, get the tires balanced. If that doesn't help then a bad axle can cause vibrations as well. If you can get under the car (while its on the ground) and move the axle up and down, thats a bad day because its not supposed to have vertical movement in it just lateral.

XT6 powersteering rack FTW. It has a closer ratio and will work in an EA82. XSNRG did it in one of his RXs and it made a noticable difference and he rally x the car.

Nah its perfect for what he uses it for. Besides, he's gettin older:-p He's having to upgrade to the EJ series now like every other old guy:grin:

Dang son, whats taking you so long? Need me to fly out there and get it done for you?:-p Just kidding! I ran into a problem on my first EA71. I had one bent pushrod and ones from an EA81 wouldn't work AND it had to be from a specific EA71 setup that had the EA81 waterpump on it:rolleyes: That made it fun to source...