Caboobaroo

If its a single range pushbutton, then no its not safe to drive on dry pavement in 4wd. If its the full time 4wd single range, then yes it is which is an early AWD setup. Short and blunt, no, not a good idea unless you wanna ruin the tranny.

Looks awesome man. You could see about rolling the fenders a bit to help with clearance issues and get some stiffer shocks for it to help with how low the car gets when people get into it. Looks like it cleaned up real nice and I can't wait to see how this turns out!

Sweet, I can do that. I'll see how much backing plates from the dealer are through my work but if they're too spendy, I'll get some from a junkyard. I'll see what I can come up with!

You'll need to get an EA81 powersteering pump bracket, it looks identical to the EA82 BUT it sits the pump back futher since there's no timing belts to interfere. Tranny will bolt up fine as well but the exhaust y-pipe will need to be changed. There's a few other things but I can't remember them right now. I was looking at putting an EA81 into my EA82 coupe with the stock SPFI before I found an EA82 SPFI engine in good condition...

So if I was to send you EJ and XT6 backing plates, would you have a chance to do it again?:-p Oh and I had my car apart in the back end and now I know how it all works. I was forgetting the XT6 rotor was screwed to the actual hub and was thinking the rotor WAS the hub and the lugs pressed into it:clap:

5-speed is way bigger then the stock 4-speed Brian. Best bet would be to cut out the tranny tunnel when the tranny will be and make a custom tunnel that's removable to ease in tranny work and shift linakges. There's not enough beating in the world to get it to fit in there without hitting

idle was fine, actually I think it might be a hair low but I think their computer tester is off a bit. I can tell the difference between 700rpm and 1100rpm and there's no way that my car was at 1100rpm, especially after sitting there for 1/2 hour to get tested in the sun. My gas mileage is less then acceptable but I've just been driving it because its reliable currently. I'll give replacing the 02 sensor a shot though since I haven't done it... I'm getting about 22mpg in town but thats in nasty traffic.... oh and dareon, the only other EA82 car I've owned that I drove was my old RX that I built the crap outta the EA82T. I won't ever build an EA82T again but that got crap for mileage too, like 12mpg!:-\

All tune-up parts are only a couple thousand miles old. Doesn't burn any oil but does leak a bit, which I'm not too worried about. The exhaust after the stock y-pipe is a turbo 4wd midpipe and a melon shooter out the back. Really thats the only modification to the original engine, still have the stock airbox in there as well!:-p

I did this swap in my '87 GL coupe. You'll need to drill holes for the mustache bar mounts but whats nice, is there are partial holes already in the body to show you where it needs to go. All you need to do is drill 4 holes and bolt it through the body. I swapped to an RX gearbox and so I rewired my instrument cluster (from an RX as well) to work in my car. I still have a few small things I need to finish on the wiring but everything for the most part works, except for my locking center diff because I need to source some solenoids for it. I also swapped to a turbo crossmember for the engine since I plan on putting an EJ turbo motor into it eventually. The hardest part about the swap I found was the fact that I had to figure out the carrier bearing mount and I made one but its temporary since its not the best. Also, you'll need to swap driveshafts, pedal clusters, exhaust since the 2wd exhaust goes into the tranny tunnel instead of off to the side. The exhaust that you'll need is from the midpipe back. If you need any help, PM me and I can help ya through it. Whats nice is when you remove the old 3AT shifter, put a jumper wire in the electrical connection that goes into the shifter to connect the two largest wires to act as if the car was in "Neutral" or "Park". It fools it so it'll start every time.

So since I moved to Washington, I was dreading that my car wouldn't pass. Being that my day off was today, I decided to get my car registered finally (so I can stop driving on expired, out of state plates) and first I had to go through the emissions. The paper I got that says I passed has all sorts of numbers on it and never being through emissions of any sort, I don't know what it all means. Here's the numbers so someone can help me figure out how well it passed... Cruise @2580rpms HC (PPM) - Limit - 220 Emissions - 90 CO (%) - Limit - 1.2 Emissions - .27 CO + CO2 (%) - Limit - 6 Emissions - 11.47 O2 (%) - Limit - N/A Emissions - 5.57 Idle @1000 HC (PPM) - Limit - 220 Emissions - 171 CO (%) - Limit - 1.2 Emissions - .1 CO + CO2 (%) - Limit - 6 Emissions - 9.4 O2 (%) - Limit - N/A Emissions - 8.3 Sooo I think I did ok?

Then after he rips your arms off, he'll restore it for you:grin:

You might be able to modify the lower control arm to accept the bigger ball joint and possibly put the EA81 tophat onto the strut. If not, you'll have to modify the strut tower to accept the 3 bolt setup instead of the 2 bolt.

yeah but if they're the 390mm Pugs like Brian mentioned, they are extremely hard to get tires for since no one really makes them anymore. Then they can be $$$$

Did you end up getting any pics of it sitting back on the ground with your pugs on it by chance? Underbody looks pretty decent as well. Maybe I'll have to schedule a vacation next spring to come down and visit my aunt... and possibly come by and take a gander at this little tyke. I bet we could get the bodywork done in a week or so.

rear end will need to be swapped to a 3.9, driveshaft is needed from the 6 or a manual EA82 car, pedal cluster is needed from an EA82 car which takes the removal of the steering column to replace with ease. I've done two auto to manual swaps and the 3AT was the easiest one (other being a 4EAT). Just put a jumper wire in the plug where the shifter connects (the two fat wires out of 6 or so) and it'll start with no issues.

What automatic do you have? I'm guessing its a 3AT which isn't too hard to swap. Nothing different from an XT6 tranny to any other EA82 tranny externally, just internal. So yes, bolt in tranny and yes, EJ EA adapter will work. EA82 will bolt up to the XT6 tranny because, an XT6 engine is basically an EA82 with 2 more cylinders, bellhousings are the same

yes Mike but with the theory "round is Hitachi and square is Weber" is too vague especially when someone comes on here looking to see what kind of carb they have. Which is why I mentioned the Carter-Weber having a round barrel on it. PIR... Portland International Raceway

Looks like its gonna be a fun little project. If you're planning on having the whole body redone, might be worthwhile to strip the car down to a rolling shell yourself to save money instead of having the shop do it. Its still going to be quite a chunk of money to have a shop do it though with the rust issues that I see you have. Overall, seems like a good car. If I was in the area, I'd come on by and help you with the bodywork, then paint it for you but drat....

It says in the ad that they make it for both RHD and LHD cars

Firstly from watching the video a couple times, I can tell you it is not a rod knock because if it was a rod, it would be making the engine shake violently and would be very audible. With the fact that it comes and goes leads me to believe it could be a valvetrain sound or possibly a timing belt tensioner. An easy way to tell on a stand is with the engine torn down to the shortblock, ie without heads or intake. If you rotate the crank until 2 of the pistons are right after TDC, you might be able to push on the piston itself and if it moves without the crank moving, then there's play in the rod bearing which would create a rod knock. If you're skeptical on sounds an engine makes, best thing to do is tear it down and find the culprit. At worse case, you'll have to get another engine but its easier to figure this out torn down on a stand then swapped into your car...

4EAT is very heavy so having a couple extra people to help is a big plus. I removed one from my '89 RX by myself... With the 4EAT, I tried to jumper the neutral safety switch in the wiring harness from the tranny but it never worked so I wired in a pushbutton. Other then that, I can't think of anything else....

Ahhh more info on the Holley 5200 is awesome. Only reason why I got it is cause someone had it for sale at PIR's swap meet one year for $15 and it was rebuilt:-p

The bottle is a quart bottle same as cheapo oil comes in but is bright yellow with a black top and a black label.

I have a set of custom gen 1 control arms that I did for EA81 front balljoints. I used the main portion of the EA81 control arm, unbolted the stabilizer rod and made my own the same size as the original ones from my '79 wagon. I made it so they had the caster adjustment just like the ones shown. Reminds me, maybe its time for me to hit up my old highschool shop teacher:-p

Hmm I'm still not quite following. Maybe its cause its been awhile since I've had an XT6 hub off since doing my 5-lug a couple years ago but I thought the lugs themselves were pressed into the hub/rotor assembly which is all one setup? Got anymore pics? Only way I'll remember in person is if I decide to tear my car apart again which isn't gonna happen for awhile:-\