Caboobaroo

Maybe you should get a Subaru so you can actually post in here and get a higher post count. Look at me, almost 5k posts and I'm the USMB drunk:banana:

Miles Fox made a 2 door wagon, also known as Trashwagon #5. It was an EA81 with coupe doors and a moved B-pillar. Yeah its a lot of work but it can be done with good results but there's a lot of money involved....

That was sooooo funny! I laughed so hard when you came by...

+1:-p

I was thinking the same thing as well.

Dave! Where are the pics of the Toyota boys?

So did the Yota ever get out???

After hanging out with Rob all weekend, he is nothing but sarcastic:-p

no, no police involved...... Knowing my luck, I'd end up getting thrown in jail:dead: So Spark, where we meeting at?:-p

I've seen the RX kit on wagons in person and yes, there is a bit of modifying that has to be done to the rear to make it fit. Basically, where the rear spats curve 90 degrees to go under the bumper, have to be cut because they just won't work with the wagon, but sedan or coupe will work fine. Also, you won't need the center rear section either.

Sounds like the motor is a pre 87.5 XT engine. IIRC, those came with the ribbed belts and pulleys but didn't have a spyder intake on it.

When I got mine from Nug, it came wrapped in paper/plastic IIRC. It cost more to ship it then what I paid for it but it had to go from the east coast to Wyoming. Looks good man! I gotta get mine finished and my body painted before I install mine though. For installing the rest of the kit, the little 1/4" self tapping sheetmetal screws are the best choice to do it. Also, the factory bodykit had a strip of double sided tape on it (look close, you'll see where it is/was).

Should be on the driver side door jamb.

You gonna come up here and fight about it? Just make sure you leave Thursday real early in the morning, then drive until you get here. Enough time for the show! Rob, my old Suzuki would always get mistaken for a Harley or something of that nature. It was a nice bike but was no Harley, that for sure:-p

The Brat is currently in Laramie still in the caring hands of LUVMYBRAT. He's getting the body fixed up and once the car is complete, he said to come on out and pick it up:-p

Look on the USDM driver side of the intake and there should be a fitting for the vacuum for the brake booster. If its on the same side as the turbo, its a JDM or from a RHD car.

From one of my previous posts in this thread. Sat for 8+ years in a field with the crankcase full of water and oil.

I was sitting at a light at Avondale and 76th today, in the far right westbound lane about to make a right onto Avondale about 6pm this evening and there was a motorcyclist in the lane to my left about 2 cars back. He revved is engine at me and when I looked out the window, he gave me a thumbs up or something along those lines. It was a black Kawasaki crotch rocket and I think they were at the Home Depot parking lot when I was leaving work. Anyone from the board?

Wanna tow me so I can save on gas?

I'll be sleeping in my coupe cause I'll be there Friday afternoon!!! :banana: Me and my buddy Josh are comin and we're both sleeping in the front seats of the coupe (yay:rolleyes: ). But hey, I'll be there:grin:

Not german, sorry, more like the old french steel! If my dad's '79 Peugot and a '70s Volvo got into a head on collision, the Peugot would win hands down. Its a 4 door mid sized sedan like the Volvos came in but it takes 4 people to push it any sort of distance...

If the engine turns over very easily, then you shouldn't have a problem. Now if it has a nasty grinding feeling while turning it over and no sign of rust or such in the cylinders, then yes, the bearings are going to be bad. I highly doubt thats the case though.

Depends on how many miles are on it currently. If it has higher miles or has sat for awhile, I'd also recommend doing the valve seals along with headgaskets. Granted, they might not be going out now, but after you drop it in and drive it for awhile, you'll wish you would have if they start going out in a few months. So, here's a list of things I would do while the engine is out... front and rear main seals headgaskets valvecover gaskets with the grommets on the bolts valve seals waterpump and gasket oilpump and related gaskets/seals oilpan gasket intake and exhaust new clutch if its in need of replacing oil filler to block gasket It would probably be easiest to get an entire gasket set from www.thepartsbin.com or from the bay of E since they can be had for pretty cheap. It will then come with all the related gaskets and more, of what you need. Then instead of having to go back to the store more times then you care to think about, you'll get it all in one lump.

The only problem I see is since you have a composite headlights, the bulbs will get hotter then normal which will cause them to burn out faster, if not blow up from the excess heat. Yes, they get hot while on but they're not meant to have that much current going through them for extended periods of time, which is why they now have H4 upgrades and such. Just a thought to throw into the pot:-p

You're going to need to split the block open to replace the bearings, just an FYI. You'll need the large allen to fit into the plugs for the wrist pins to remove the pins if you're planning on doing the rings as well. I *think* you should be ok with splitting the block apart without removing the pistons to do the bearings but I have never done so myself. Like I said, the bearings are going to be fine since I had one that sat with a ton of water in the crankcase for 8 years and ran good (except for the Carter-Weber carb, ugh) after I got the carb tuned up. I then traded it for my '79 4wd wagon since the rust was so bad, I felt like I was going to fall out from the bottom of the car.