Caboobaroo

I've had bad experiences with GSP axles. The tolerances inside the joints are usually too tight or too loose and can cause vibrations and clicking. Hopefully you have better luck with them!

I believe Gloyale has done some research on the older 4EAT. I believe he said the internals are the same, only difference was the case.

For a clutch replacement, you're going to be anywhere between $500 and $1200 depending on what quality of parts are used, what shop is charging and anything else that might be added on. Any car over 150k miles, I will also replace the clutch fork. I will also replace both the exhaust manifold gaskets since it has to be removed to get the transmission out.

It's a bad throw out bearing or a siezed pilot bearing. Either the transmission needs to be dropped or the engine needs to be pulled.

Please steer away from cheaper parts, especially HBAS for these cars. The ABS tone ring is now integrated into the bearing and some of the cheaper ones don't have the proper tone ring inside. It can cause surging while the cruise control is set. Seen it a few times now.

Decided to use the bolts for the intake from the old engine. Got the new engine in and during torquing of the intake, I snapped another bolt off, in the same hole I just fixed... I have more pics on Photobucket but it doesn't like either my phone or iPad so uploading the pics here is time consuming. Dash has a couple minor cracks, seats are in good shape, carpet is discolored but not torn. I will get more pics up tonight when I get home for you guys.

I've had a 79 wagon with a badly bent pushrod. Got it back together to find it had a bad thrust bearing. The 78 I just picked up dropped a valve into #4 and locked it up. Engine only has 52k on it.

Since we have this current week off for vacation, we picked up an engine from Pooparu. Got to my mom's house Monday afternoon and quickly had the old engine ready to come out. Was able to get the new engine dropped in with an extra set of hands but not cherry pickers were harmed in this swap. Working on getting the intake bolted on, I had a bolt break clean off with the head. It's the same hole I had to repair the day before that had another bolt break coming apart..... Now for another precise Helicoil repair and some new stainless steel bolts.

Here's an option as well. I decided to try something on my wife's 04 Outback. I got my hands on a pair of 04 STI transverse bushings and pressed them out of the aluminum brackets. I then pressed out the Outback bushings and then pressed in the STI bushings. Group N rubber upgrade! In combo with the aluminum JDM control arms, it's pretty tight.

Interior pictures!

Reserved for more pictures From a couple weeks ago.

Since it has been decided to keep this in our stable, it's time for an introduction. Meet Betty, the 1978 4wd wagon my wife and I just recently rescued. At the beginning of 2014, my wife spotted this car in downtown Portland not far from her job. When she picked me up from work, she described a Subaru she hadn't seen before so we went to take a peek. Ended up posting this picture of the car on Facebook. A few weeks ago, I stumbled upon the same car on Craigslist. The only issues about it was it needed an engine and was an hour and a half from where we live. Luckily, it was in my hometown not far from where my mom lives. So we took a drive that weekend to look at it. Unfortunately I didn't have access to the keys so I couldn't open it up. Met up with the owner to purchase the car and that's when he told me about the history of the car. It was originally bought by his grandmother in 1978 and since her name was Betty, explains the vanity plates. She used it primarily to go to the mountains so when her grandson bought it from her in 1996, it only had 35k miles. It lived in central Oregon for about 10 years where it was rarely used. After that, the car came back to Portland where it was only used in the snow until last year. The owner gave the car to his son to drive at college until the engine came apart and was parked until we bought it. It only ha 52k miles on it still. Photobucket keeps crashing but you can view all the photos there.

Is there a bad vibration in D stopped at idle? Sounds like it could be a bad front axle, usually an aftermarket unit is the culprit. I will have the front end off the ground and check how much play the axle joints have. Excessive slop or too tight of clearances cause a shake.

No one makes them. Last quote I recieved from APR for my ER27 was almost $800!

The upper plastics have to pop out, along with any rubber trim, sun visors, dome light and a few pop clips. It's fairly easy, just time consuming. If it's a wagon, it'll slide out the back hatch. If it's a sedan or a coupe, removing the seats makes it easier to get it out. I've used 3M 90 spray adhesive and gray suede to wrap my wife's rear deck lid and headliner for her Outback and it came out nice.

The right side timing belt is different then the EA82, along with all the rollers. I know, I just replaced all of mine with some of the last dealership parts in the US. They're the same length but the XT6 belt is wider.

Like it was said before, there can be issues with the ABS tone "ring" inside the cheaper bearings. It can cause the throttle to pulsing while the cruise control is set letting the car go from 60mph to 61mph and back to 60 as an example.

Yes great info. I've been contemplating having them install larger valves and do some port work on a pair of ER27 heads for my built shortblock.

16 flashes indicates an electrical issue. The sensor you're talking about is a speed sensor in the front diff housing. Only time I see issues with a transmission after head gaskets is when the transmission gets jacked up into the tunnel. It pinches the wiring in the harness and causes problems.

It's one of the tangs inside the socket that needs to be pulled back out. It's common on that era of Legacys and I tend to fix them for free when people come in for work. Pop the bulb out and grab a pick. Pull the three tangs out just a hair so it will make better contact with the bulb.

I try to be as professional as possible. No girly calendars or pictures hanging up anywhere in the shop. Like it was said, you never know who's going to come in. Granted, I no longer work for a corporate shop but I still feel it's tacky when stuff like that is in view of customers or sales reps.

My old SPFI EA82 hit 8500 rpm but it didn't really like it. Lots of noise and valve float at that high of an RPM. I'd love to spin 9k rpm from my ER27 that is currently being built. No turbo, bored cylinders, Wiseco pistons, Delta 272 cams and a pair of ported heads. Still need to replace the valve springs, possibly go with a larger set of valves and solid lifters. That's once I get the head studs done.

Wow what an ordeal. Ok you said you checked fuel pressure. What was the pressure at while cranking? Unless you have an electrical gremlin, I doubt it's in the ignition side of the car especially after replacing parts with new/good used ones.

The difference between the full time box and all wheel drive box is this. The locking center diff locks it into 4wd like all other Subarus of the era. Not able to drive on pavement with it locked. The EJ all wheel drive box uses a viscous center diff to allow slippage when turning. And yes, you can tell the difference in handling between both boxes, especially when hitting a bump in a corner.

There are Full Time 4wd transmissions that were bolted to EA82Ts and ER27s. It's not technically an all wheel drive transmission due to the open center differential though.