Yo'J

Ha, I just did this. I was told to never put sealant on cork, but in the book it says to put sealant on both sides of the oil pan gasket. (?) But you prolly dont want to put sealant on the valve cover gaskets as you might want to take them off again to adjust your valves unless its a hydro lifter motor. The intake should just be clean and dry and oem.

if your going to weld...... do it once. Make a strut top. Do it wrong, you do it twice, why make it three? I'm really glad you are contributing to the usmb by saying how not to do things. That takes confidence. Its a good thing, but its like a ladder, you shouldn't try to climb higher than than it goes. On the job, you fall off the ladder, you are fired before you hit the ground. (YOUR FIRED!) If the ladder falls with you on it.....(they sue the ladder company for lost employee time) they pay for not checking you out to ensure your saftey, not being your Mom enough. Says the frog to the grasshopper....

I was getting 26mpg with a 2" lift on 26.5s (till I blew a head) ea81 wagon. I'm sticking with the float sticking, they do. Mine froze stuck in shipping. Its easy, some people lose the little ring clip on the linkages but a small screwdriver and a small forceps work great for not losing it. If you do, wire. I like the webers directions, (fpr), the return is a good idea as the float wont handle more than 3.5lbs..... and you have a drip even when you turn it off you say?..... tested the exact pressure yet?

O.K. float doesnt make it through shipping. Re-adjust. Look it up. Simple. You need to know it. Pressure regulators, the $100 redline one works like a champ. I've had problems with the other $30 or less kinds. Stuck on the side of the road kinds. Bow Wow, Auto zone, Online? Call Jim Greens(?) in monroe. They just moved there. You are there, I put a fuel return on my weber. I don't know if it makes a difference really yet, but it might save you the regulator if you watch your lines and pull out the little one way valves for more flow.

I'm not sure about the up pipe, but on the ps lines, its about where the lines go through and the removable plate on the bottom of the ps crossmember. On the non ps crosmember it is welded on with spot welds. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106213&highlight=power+steering Pics here Someone knows about the up pipe part

This is way better than reality tv!

There is a cable that goes from the back of the knob to a lever under the dash by the drivers right shin. Its a push style cable and the housing likes to crack. If you reach all the way under, past the air up pipe/tube you will feel/see the actuator arm. If you push it towards the front it will close the door and give you solid heat. If you follow the arms and cables you'll figure it out. Good luck. I left mine like that and just reach under to move the lever.:-\

I did that wrong once, hooking up a surge tank. If its the same as a USDM brat, the return is on the firewall by the trans tunnel and the lower fuel line in the corner by the strut tower is the vent. You can check by blowing on it to hear bubbling in the tank.

It took me two years to get all the parts together in a pile. Now its all in EXCEPT for good injectors and a good tune. I started in what? december? It still wont run right and my dd motor is slowly crapping out so its got a motor waiting, now freshly resealed.

The ea81s can need a valve adjustment every year if the motor is worn and is driven alot. Mine is that way at 230k. Get used to it. You should know it. That is why the hydro lifter motors are so much better, valve size not included. No rust? Might be quite worth it.

crawl under it?

No, tap it over to standard. GD has a great tutorial, it might be in someonelses thread but just search the forum and do them all at once with all thread. I did the headgaskets on my first car. Got it free. Lasted years.

I'm very interested in what you come up with on this as I'm putting together a new ea81 with a redline weber carb and I do want to figure it out. I was always wondering if you t-ed off the disty advance or used regular manifold pressure. Manifold pressure would (wouldn't it?) leave you "eating gases" at idle and "forcing air" at wot, were as off the disty its the opposite, allowing air to be eaten during advance conditions(wot) and at idle it would remain closed? I'm just guessing here, the ea81 works under the same conditions. With the weber you don't get a second vacuum port. With what your saying, Naru, about the vacuum switch, would that be for easier cold start and drive situations? Disabling the advance that is? I.e. Hoses, carb to T to disty and egr? Does that sound right? Or is it manifold to switch to egr for richer wot and leaner cruise? Going to the air cleaner bit, i don't know if its so much of a similar condition with a weber. I'm guessing its more of an off or on, not a partial opening situation with the aftermarket carb. With tuning to stoich, this is difficult to understand. To me there seems to be pros and cons on either side of this, my own personal argument here anyhow.

Just to add a note, I got a driveline from drivelines nw and they reused my brats driveline ends, put in new joints and fitted it with zerk fittings. I installed a 5spd. Handed it back to me at the end of the day, only problem....the paint was still wet.

Wait..isnt it magnetic? The IAC?

I'm not sure if it works this way in reality, but could it be clogged well enough to cause firing problems.....? Egrs can fill with carbon leaving no passage for breathing and some have separate head ports, some do not. I really don't understand the differences. Just that they are a pain to clean out.

$5 dollar rodda mis-tint equipment enamel! FTW! I 've had a sample on my car for a while now and it holds great! I'd spray it on though, in a booth. Its not forgiving on one coat.

I wouldn't block off all the head ports, those need to breath, the asv stuff fine, but the egr and breather tubes, no. Sounds like your on the right track. I'm still a little confused myself on the egr and the hose routing for proper exhaust gas eating capabilities. One way or the other, the egr doesn't hurt things from what I understand.

Type of Wrenching: Shadetree, maint What:Soobs and bicycles How long doing it: 8 years on cars 20 on bikes Other skills:all phase construction, trim and finish carpentry, fine woodworking and finishing, antique restoration. someday I'll do my first drawn and drafted classic chair design. I've built all my own furniture so far.

Nice boat btw! The car is sweet too!

If you think about it....thats probably right. Why do you drive one?

If its been sitting try some seafoam too. it should help absorb old bad gas. Nice score!

If its been sitting try some seafoam too. it should help absorb old bad gas.

Dont forget the trim piece! If there are two I want the trim off one!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=54 Try off road mods...