Yo'J

It will be fun! Welcome!

I just went back 4 times:lol: Finally they got the right ones. At least they paid shipping and not me.

As a carpenter, I could suggest you try to find a local carpenter you trust to build it. The price game has some high stakes involved. Usually a bid is a guess on building costs plus 60% for profit and overruns. A pad can be had cheap with the specifications on your local building code. (Insulation, water table adjustments, footings ect.) Its like a grand a 10 yard concrete truck delivery here. Gravel and insulation a grand or two depending on the size of your garage pad. Your local union guys that are out of work love that kind of side work and are usually happy to give you a deal and the best work. I love watching union d-wallers and tapers. They have wings, ya know! Building materials have dropped almost 50% but I'll bet your quotes havent noticed. Plumbing and electrical can be expensive and should be set up before you pour. Installation is your biggest problem labor wise. You get what you pay for and you pay double for "contractor services". I run a one man show myself an I have work coming out my ears because I have no overhead or employees and I don't bid. Just hourly and tool expense. For example, four walls and a papered roof should be up in a week max, by me and one buddy, weather withholding. Interior and siding is where you can spend money, you have to look at it ya know. Thats all I can give ya without a plan to look at. Keep your money local, it will reinvest itself in your local neighborhood.

Clean the engine bay before insurance looks at it! The rest of it too. It will help you get the most out of your insurance. I'm sure they will total it. If it looks like it could have come straight off the lot they have to get you lot prices.

Heck no! That thing will be fine if it tracks straight! I hope you brought spare mice and rubber bands and a roll of duct tape (timing belts), the flashlight is a good idea too. Just don't over heat it.

Don't forget to do the triple price check as napa and schucks, oreilly (whatever) has the same stuff you can order too.

I hear they don't want the scraps without the whole cat together, at least for cash. I might need some work done too. I need to fit my ej y pipe to my 87 brat and then to the end of the car.

When I was lifting my 82' wagon, I was under the car putting in the lift blocks and did almost the same thing, but I didn't knock myself out. Instead, I nailed the same spot on my head with the wrench, my 1/2" drive spud with the breaker bar on it, about four times. I kept moving around but when the bolts were breaking loose, that was my head to pad the wrench. The back went in fine though.

Are you sure its a 2wd xt6?

herehttp://lmgtfy.com/?q=33+ohm+5+watt+resistor

Page 323 of the 1980thru1989 haynes has it, but its hard to read, I mean really hard to read. Pm me. I'll scan it.

You could use extra windshield washer spray jets to cover the holes on the outside and plumb the center one forward for some summertime fun at the beach.

Sure the head gasket can be fixed forever, but you got to change it first! Somewhere I read, (I wonder where?) They went through many different designs to get to where they are today with the 2.5 head gaskets. Welcome to the board!

If you're looking for an ea82 wagon I would stick with waiting out for a non turbo 88' or 89 with the dual range manual. Find one that doesn't run and bring her back. Easiest EJ swap candidate. You can find about two a month for less than $500. There is an efi 87.5' but it will be tougher to get parts for. 87' and previous is carbed. For 90' they dropped the dual range. For 81 to 84 expect to really want to put in the 5sd dual range conversion. If I saw a low mile d/r ea82 whatever, I would consider it for parts, no matter the condition of the rest of it. I saw two non drivers last month for less than $200 both with blown heads but I got too many cars already.

My alt was bucking out 18v for two short drives, thank god I noticed. The battery was swollen and started to spray acid!

I got pink undies on my brat! But shes riding stock. Still got to do the mustache bar!

I like to keep a 4" house door hinge pin or two in my box to use as a stop for the flywheel, with a bent end obviously. They bend easily enough to use for a couple of uses, but wear out rather fast. Did you try to put it in gear? Locktite? Its been a while for me to say anything about a nub and hole for any ea82 stuff, but metal might have moved if there is a wear spot in that area. For the whirring, have you looked for anything while running or listened maybe? Something might be putting extra tension on your belt, water pump, compressor, whatever.

I was thinking a desk lamp would be cool if it wasn't to big and it was clean enough to spray a thin coat of lacquer on to keep the corrosion away. I got a clean-ish one thats unknown mechanically.

Discount shmishcount! I wanna see the book!

Um, isnt all eastern Washington between a milemarker and some tumbleweed? I'm gonna try to bring the 87 brat! We will see...."swmbo", someone said wife?

Just drilling and cutting and bolting if you don't have a welder. More things to watch loosen as you drive. I'm sitting in outback seats in my 82'. They are too big by the way and barely slide forward or back due to friction.

I just installed a new fuse box with room and mounts for three relays and four fuses:banana: Fount it in an old mitsubishi, fits just perfect! Its like 2"by 4" and fit right by the battery! I got a switch and ran new power for my switched source, so you can crank it all you want but without the switch it wont start, or turn off. I thought I had my PS lines routed fine but they are way forward into the exhaust pipe area with out much room to bend out of the way unfortunately. Looks like it time for gwilsons approach and get new lines. Scoobiedoo, You driving yours yet? I CANT WAIT!!!!!:banana:

Speaking of, I heard from the dealer that there are three (3) ea81 rear wagon seals left in the country and none for the side glass.

I m leaning towards six lug redrills so I can get cheap spare rims for seasonal tires, but, I'm DD'ing a beater roo. Totaled on the licence. 4x140 is a tough rim to source ya know. Thirteens is about it or pugs. There's spacers....

Reverse engineering at its finest! The thing is the coil was powered! The ecu didn't have enough power to send a signal to the ignitor so it could then tell the coil to fire, BUT, only when it was cranking.