Yo'J

Time....Time....time....If thats all the world was made of. It seems its only made of deadlines. I need to go to arlington.

I so want a P/S crossmember!!!!! I'da pulled it!zzz I don't even need the rack!

Never discredit the golf ball effect!

Thanks!

But everybody here drives some fancy new car and all the old ones look top. Warshingtons big economic center, here, thrives on that false economy. You wont look cool at the office driving a beater. Real Warshingtonians dont care but the implants fall into the clique-y new toy routine. I say if you have a good interior, keep the car. Thats hard to find. The longer cars stay on the road the better for our future. PAP sells axles for 18+bucks and the heads aren't hard if even I have done it.

Its a denso coil, I just checked. It looks like there was a resistor there thats been removed. Should that be in place with the denso? Its cheaper to get the whole hitachi coil, disty,cap and rotor than a remaned denso disty. Wires and plugs might put it over the price, but whats the rest to replace in the whole system?

I think, but not sure, it was a nippon denso distributor. I bought the brat the week it failed and the PO took it to try to warranty it to no avail.

If the PO put a ND distributor in, could that be a determining factor in its failure?

Which disty do I get? I'm trying to get the core but it seems to be out a while. Stock everything carb (feedback I assume). I called the dealer and they quoted me $600:eek: Napa $310 for a ND and $204 hitachi. I know you can swap them out but I have to get this thing to pass emissions. What would you do? So the problem began all of a sudden when there was no spark during cranking the tack would just stay dead. Thats all I know. It wouldn't be anything else would it? Boy I would like to drive this thing!!

Get the whole car! Its amazing what you could do with the parts! Upgraded master cylinder, hood cable, cup holder, Steering rack? Legs for a coffee table out of tranny parts....Whatever! My donor is my spare parts shed right now.

I heard if its the appliance enamel its as hard as a rock but takes 5 coats or more. Good work by the way!

You did not!!!!:lol:

If you split the case and put in ea shafts would you run into probs with the width of the transmission?

Nice Dooder! Welcome to the board!

Bearings aren't that hard. I found mine a little rusty last time but better to pull than my ford still. I ground down the outside of the worn one to use as my installation tool.

What does it cost to make those axles? I would love to make my brat AWD! Even with 4lug!

And Im Found!:banana: Thanks Pooparu!

So I thought, since my chores are done for the day I would change my oil and find the (non existent) relay for my radiator fan (82 wagon, that was fun), rebushing my squeeking pitch stopper and wire in my 4wd lo dash light from my5 speed swap (its only been a year). So I remember it was here somewhere in retrofittin' where i saw some real nice pics of the fancy colored transmission wires all done put together and working! So now I'm here and I cant find a thing! Round plug and a square hole....... Did I dream the whole thing? Musta been last week I saw it. Does anybody remember?

Ea82s need 10-30w for the lifters to work properly. Some folks will tell you to use whatever for the seasonal changes but the tolerances in the motor really just like that 10-30w oil. I might try an engine cleaning and a real short couple of oil changes first like every 1500miles. It might help clean up and free up those lifters. I've heard you can use ATF for its detergents and run it for a short time, if its only run for like 50 miles or less and then changed, its "supposed" to be ok. I've never done it, I would be afraid to leave some in there, but, might be cheaper than than a foaming treatment.

I had the same symptoms when my rack went out. As it started out, it was fine at 55 but would shake at 60. As it got worse I could only go 35 then 30. The rack was only giving slop on one wheel or so it seemed. It was almost visible when driving, like a bubbling tire. I never did ask the shop what happened on the inside of it. I started out doing all the things you did. Ball joints, bearings, strut rod bushings ect. till it was the last step, the rack.

Lucky score! Id leave the luggage rack and not mod too much, the wood is easy to replace with better. Thats a classic, classic ride. If you pimp it you'd out shine the Mercedes convertible!

Thank god it wasn't you in there melting off the seats! At least its just a thing. I saw a coupe on cl seattle a week ago. An old buddys ride went up when a fuel line popped off the pump. He was sleeping in it and turned it on to warm up. A local bum woke him out of his doze and saved his life. He was in the middle of moving and had his whole life in the trunk and back seat....gone. Dont get a audi, get a fire extiguisher!

Are you getting air? Clogged filter or intake?

I seen one by northgate, but its a different one, no stickers or yellow.

I'm a wood guy and I like the wood rack idea. Teak is rather expensive but the price of Jatoba fluctuates a lot. $3.30bf to $5.50 range. A little heavy but way strong. Teak is like $18bf. Clean vg cedar w/o knots Kiln dried, oiled well will have the lightness and the strength, weather ability to do what you need, it will ring if its a good un-damaged piece. All my racks have been cedar but I just scored a 5/4 rippled stick of figured jatoba for my next rack. I broke my last rack, I used home despot green undried knotty cedar mounted to the factory rails. It broke when I loaded a carpet roll on the top, I let it land too hard. It split right on a knot. I should have known. Still using it with a replacement stick.