Yo'J

All the axle booties, ball joints, bushings and bearings, most easy wear parts are twenty dollar parts and are a 2hr fix if your beer doesn't get in the way. Steering racks, suspension new, engines and trannys, diffs and major parts run $200 to $300 new or low mile. Of course you can get carried away there. Sure some things are $40 like new brake pads or used axles but a low mile motor can get you to 500,000 if all the other parts have been weekended out. Retire the rusty when you hear the tinkle (of rust) when you feel the sway(of the body flexing under your seat when you corner or just get in:lol:)! Just like an old VW Bug!

You didn't tell us where it was!!!

Some of the tank lines could be in the wrong order or backwards. If you just got it, there is a one way valve on one of them, if one got re-installed incorrectly, like when the engine bay fuel filter was replaced, it would not depressurize your tank. Its on one of those little short hoses around there. One of my old hitachi carbs ( car came with three and I had two) wouldn't breathe through the canister until I replaced all the lines on it, as well. Ran great when it was off. Its how I got it home:lol:! Smoked a little.... a weber took care of that for the final fix. (Cant blame the PO guy for trying.)

BREATH! Its gonna work! You know it will. It might just be waiting for the sun....

Aluminum you can cut with a carbide wood saw blade, you can cut heavy sheets on a table saw and really, you could do the project in your wood shop if you have a stable enough saw with a slide jig and outfeed table. It would take a few hours for jig building out of scrap wood and a few passes but the housing would be pretty close to perfect. It would need some cleanup, but not much. If you had a variable speed router with good horse and slow speeds you could fab up a wooden end mill jig and smooth out your sawzall cuts if you went the junkyard route. Fresh sheet stock would be better, whatever you choose, but aluminum you can cut like wood, sort of. Your labor vs. someone else. I bought an sjr, way faster! You pay to play, one way or the other! Just takes some brain:burnout: Powwah! And OCD:lol:

Now isn't that nice to hear!!!!

Don't re-use old bolts. They have been through enough hot and cold to re temper them. Especially if they were over tightened.

Gas or brake! What is the "heck" for? What other option is there?:lol:

Did you get it out? Some insurance will pay for damages if you say you parked it there. (I'm fighting insurance now). I'm not being mean. I would like to know. The ridicule comes from unpreparedness, there is wisdom in it. We are only young once thank god.

After MY first six tries doing the timing belts, right from the manual, I finally got it right. One tooth off. Now I can do a belt on the side of the road in less than four hours with water runs and keeping the covers on.

I've been looking all month for a brat here, Nice work! Got plans for that thing?

They want to give me an insurance quote and spam me with ads and all I want is a breakdown of the rear bearings and a write up like the real folk here give on how to change them out. Any one know? I'll keep looking....

I've got to do my donors 90 auto wiring cut down soon, I wish I could watch to get the hang.

I bought my 2.2 with the car for $500 blown tranny 150k miles and the sjr kit with flywheel for whatever and the clutch for $200 something. $75 for a turbo gas tank and I'm just about over a grand without muffler and pipe. Have you tried CCR motors in Co.? Fresh motors.....their quote to me last year was just over a grand w/ delivery, $1200 whole thing.

silly wire rub on some harness somewhere? I was blowing fuses like a fool trying to figure out my rear lights once when I found a rub under the radiator, a melted plug bank just above it and a single wire by the muffler, not that yours would be there but all mine were fine until I would hit a puddle then the next one would go. It was one at a time. Just a thought.

Why was 5lug not the best choice for a lifted rig? It sounds to me like your out of beer, (time off with the guys) or the honey do list is getting you down! (This is the way it is for me) Remember the good old days of being on vacation when all you really wanted to work under your car on the latest problem that occurred or the newest cool thing you got? (I know the cold is not as nice as it seemed to have been back then, when we look back on it even yesterday.) With this economy I keep getting forced vacations but they just get harder to accept. It seems to me you could have it all done in a couple of weekends maybe minus the 5 to 4 lug re-conversion. So a lady friend is having car trouble. She takes her older Jimmy 4x to two shops after her boyfriend gives it a tune up, cap wires plugs rotor, with the complaint it doesn't drive right and blows blue smoke. One shop says they cant figure it out, doesn't want to try. The next shop says the firing order is wrong (stirring a complaint from behind) $50 bucks later, they don't take the blue tape said boyfriend put on them with the numbers in sharpie, same order. Fight ensued. I get called. I show up. I'm no mechanic. Its carburated, I can tell that much. So I stick my head under the hood and find the pcv and the egr. The egr is attached to a hose going to the base of the carb from passenger side head. I pull it and the thing is solid rust, carbon and yellowish crud, it only rattles dirt out onto the ground. Its right in front, on top, first thing you see. Next I try to push the pcv to see if its clogged and sure enough its free to move but I dont think the engine can force it with that much pressure if I have to force it so hard. So I look into the carb and find the line from the head on the drivers side is spewing blackend oil into the carb, just under the little plastic cover. So they got the lines cleaned and new egr and pcv and all is good right? Still on the first hundred miles or so but with out the excess block pressure it isn't blowing smoke and drives fine. Remember this is supposed to motivate you. So lets think about just having the money to pay a shop to fix your car for you, on a whim. .... Do you want the first shop or the second?

Nice photochoppin!

That is the stuff dreams are made of there!

I'm Weberized, personally, I wouldn't ever go back, but I was just wondering about the feedback vs. non-feedback, hitachi vs carter weber designs.

I would love an uncracked dash, if its possible to pull. They all fall apart once touched. Might not be worth your time.

My heater s got a similar problem due to the air dam not closing all the way, I have to reach up under the dash to fully close the flap or it blows luke warm air. I think its a hard cable (solid wire in a housing) or something, I havent torn it all the way apart.

I know you forgot your negative here, trying not to put in a double negative or something courteous.

Geez, thanks! No offense taken here. Brats should (I believe) have a higher value as they are rarer and neater. More people bought wagons as they are more versatile. Insurance companies seem to look for the bottom dollar amounts to shove in your face. Like anyone would really save money and waste time to go and search for a 82 wagon gl. I know we all would or have but that is irrelevant to them. More for us. Some antiques like Biedermeier stuff, people love. Its the Ikea of 1815 to 1845 to me. The beginning age of industrialization in wood craft. Some of it is o.k. but not in my house. Look it up and then look up other stuff from the era, you'll catch my drift if you think "FINE Wood Skillz" Any hoo, the insurance co.s don't care for your brat and it reflects in the nada guides, vice versa. Their thinking is "what is granny going to buy?". That is why they don't cover all the other maintenance items. After all granny is the best mechanic:lol:! Might be all they take care of. :-\ right.... This is what the guy explained to me. I would have recorded him if I could have. Just to pin him down like voodoo doll. (There really does need to be a emocon bashing with a hammer.)

On the stock subaru carbs, don't they respond to the ecu preferentially? Like they need the ecu for that type of carb? If you did the stock carb swap would you need to swap the ecu for best gain? Pins are different arent they as well? Or, do they all work with the carb style ECUs?

For things like that tell them its a brat. It eases the confusion for ea81s. +1 for cutting the filter up 91oct has more cleaners in it, that might have freed some gunk. Bow Wow auto parts or Autovice carries the weber too, for a price check. They beat Napa quite a bit of the time.