Yo'J

I am not impressed. Here a guy flys some hundred balloons in a chair and no one could make one,1, uno balloon. Is the output that weak?

O.K. 140 main jet back in for the last few days. I've noticed a few things. The gauge jumps from off the scale lean to rich all the time at 30-40 cruise. One trip down the highway only does so good. So I guessing(I know I do a lot of that), that I was reading this thing wrong. The weber should just sip the gas when needed right? Meaning when it is off the scale its just not reading a lean condition, its a reading a coasting condition,i.e. no throttle. Should an engine stay in the stoich during most driving situations like slow acceleration? If so I would need to go with a 135 main or smaller, then I would not be running so rich when I am at cruise. If that is true, then would I want to match that secondary as well? Am I trying to stay stoich at WOT as well?

Anyone make balloons for the fourth?

L series, Hmmm, sounds good. I'm guessing the stock tires won't go back on with a coilover or will moving the tops and diameter of the spring just miss the tire? I will be rolling on pugs but it would be nice to have a spare set. A friend mentioned that it would be wise to adjust the front suspention for the increased weight load of the ej22. I'm guessing the gr2s are the only thing for the front as I haven't read that much about new stuff or mods for an ea81 besides welding on different towers. Something I'm not ready to try.

Well I already have a dead ignition switch and now a pushbutton connected right at the pink connector. But, I have an update. After starting four times today like nothing was wrong but the sound of a bad gear and not starting twice and having to get a push to start (just to start fine at the next stop) I spent the cash on a remanufactured starter for a 87 automatic, it starts like a jet. It was $95 with a 2yr warranty and the old one was a bosch. The guy said the bosch ones are crap and wear fast. Both were for an 87 auto. The bosch cost me $150 5yrs ago. Thanks for the help, if its something else, still..... ....!

I'm getting ready to lift my 82 wagon 2" and I cannot find a rear shock. I've read here that I can get some lift? from a later year coilover shock assembly. Does anyone know how much lift a loyale rear coilover shock would get me? I would really like coilovers as my wagon is a lumber wagon already! I've also found rancho part#s rs5129 and 5240 that might work in place of stock but they need some drilling or bushings or magic to get them to fit. I figure some square stock, McBrats writeup, and the correct size lift from the coilover and I might not kill the camber to badly. Anyone know the sizes? Anyone know a better option for a 2" lift on a ea81 rear suspention? Also, I'm getting ready to put in an ej22 What would a better front strut be for the increased weight? Its time to get all the ducks in a row!

It does seem a little corroded. Sometimes, now, it doesn't click. The starter is about 5yrs old. Is it just getting time? I'll check the spade connector.

Just parts on my last (and only) head gasket job alone cost me close to $1500 but alot was wrong and I had to get new heads as my cracks were huge, that was an ea82. oil was in everything including the overflow tank, one nasty greenish milkshake. The carb was crud and needed work too I think with all new hoses, filters and belts all the way around.

well, 26.5mpg sofar last tank 2/3s highway 1/3rd major in town driving 219,000 ea81 weberized

So here is the deal, just a click and and low juice on the battery. The situation; New battery yesterday wouldn't hold juice, new starter contacts, side by side starter pushbutton with ignition, problem persists, was more intermittent than it is now. Is there a voltage regulator? where? Is some other part of the starter fail-able like that? I got 14. 2 at the alt. 14.1 at the battery. Any other way to test the alt? I hate throwing money away but I might just to get a new starter and alt(right before I drop in a ej, darnit:banghead: ea81, 82' GL

Alright! Got data! 26.5 mpg with140 main, 2/3s highway driving. 150 main is too big! She runs steady in the rich on cruise, very steady! I'll bet the 145 would be perfect as the 140 left me off the scale lean. The power difference is huge! Well sort of...it just doesn't have that dry feeling any more, like it needed monostat7 or something! I wont get a good reading on mileage for a little bit, she needs to be driven and I'll be in town for the next week at least. You know 5 stops in two miles there and 4 stops in 3 miles home. I'll make sure everything is tight and steady, then drop in the 145. She still bogs/fuel starves at WOT around corners like on ramps, maybe worse now:grin: ! And of course the other problems that are currently showing up!

Well my 66 ford has antlers, I'll bet the Cleveland 351 in that has a few extra amps to get silly with! I threw out twenty amps because it would equal one large electrolyzer with supposed large output. Or one fancy huge boomming stereo that needs an extra battery. I always wanted 15amps of 120v free on the subie anyway, plug in and go to town, tablesaw, chop saw at least a skill saw, all run between 18amps start up and 10-15 running.

Lets say 20 amps, what is my mpg of gas loss. Whats my h2o loss for the same? What is the H-H-O- gain? What are we trying to figure out here? Give me a real figure. Science, (as a religion) is an experiment.

movin'

So just for conversations sake, how much energy does the radio take from the battery and the alt? Does the radio decrease mileage?

Thanks GD I'm gonna drop a 150 main jet in today (the store was out of 145s) and see if it picks up better. I think, if I'm processing this correctly, that might get my fuel up a little. I'm getting a little bit of confusing info here though. I was told at the store I got my jets at that the idle jets work up to about 2500rpm and the air corrector jets work to compensate at really high rpms, I don't know what that means. Now its pretty obvious that the secondaries work over 2/3rds throttle. So what rpm s do the air bleeds affect things at? Is this a tangible figure? I would assume air would flow regardless depending on the valve/intake... speed.

Well Now I think my fuel gauge is broken! Jskddn! 188miles and just over half a full tank! Now I guess I need to figure out the rest of the readings. I'm not sure what to think of the cruise mixture. While running to bellingham at 70 along the flat it would cruise slightly rich if I was accelerating. BUT If I just maintained speed it was totally off the scale lean. On acceleration up hills it was lean aswell, well, not jamming my foot to the floor. After I got back it was Idleing a little rich. I do have some hesitation in the low end. So I'm thinking lean. I'll reajust today and get a longer reading at 30-35. The hardest part of getting a reading is that I have only seen the gauge settle slightly rich or way lean. It has not ever sat stoich centered, just close on idle. If you blow on the screw too hard it would change from rich to lean. I'll count my turns out today. PS I got a cheapy sunpro with leds instead of a dial. Seems sensitive enough. I just woke with a headache and might not be explaining things to clearly. I hope the air quality clears up!

So what does it take to make water and hydrogen combine? Must be a lot:rolleyes: ! If you can make a quart of water and show me it took "no" energy, then, you can say there is no energy stored in water. Its just waiting to be tapped! BUT! It takes fire! Fire needs Fuel! Fuel drives my car! It makes the world go round! Its time to make the blinders disappear, turn off the tv, step out into the universe as we are a real species! (and vote third party?)..... I do believ the theory is sound and people are buying the "mileagemaker.com" one and getting great results. My only real question is why not make one instead of buying one?

O.K. fuel/air meter installed! Looks like I was running rich a bit on idle. (The air fuel screw is quite the delicate object isn't it?) Its a little too sensitive on the first drive around the block, I think I should take it for a good drive see how it does. Maybe to Bellingham! So question, some how its supposed to tell me my cruise mixture but, only if I'm not accelerating or decelerating, Right? So like on a long flat at a constant speed. I don't know if Im ready for a lesson of how the jets work with the idle jets (although that might be the easy part) and the air corrector jets, the three together and the primary vs. the secondarys, but I'm willing to try if anyone else is. How does the float level get involved in there too? To experiment is to learn. I remember experimenting:rolleyes: ... and learning:rolleyes: ... and it was fun:banana: !

Doesn't one go to the heater assy. and one to the brake booster?

Now that is the way to find good jetting! I'll get one of those!

O.K. the rack is pretty slimline, I did o.k. work. its cedar and light weight. I don't drive like a grandpa but I try to keep it under 4000 rpm. Most of the time I'm driving in town with lots of stops and short runs. Working in town here is a driving pit of hell. I'll do wheel lube and check the brakes out. As far as a rejet goes, its clean in there. What should I jet too, or should I just clean them anyway. Whats good settings for the float, economy and/or offroad?

Hmmm I got the brakes inspected when I got it. I'll check again. I put new calipers on the back... whatever they are called for drums, the "actuator". Tires are good. The hill holder is bad and needs to be replaced or fixed, I have a replacement already....If its bad, like, not working, it wouldn't stay on, would it?

Well seems fine. Just adjusted it a month ago to be sure. Sparkplug? Would it fit? That would look cool, not something to wire though...jskddn! Better than wasting a good 02 sensor.

For a little bit of history. When I picked up the car it wouldn't idle at all, but its a subie. 15 min and the plugged crap came off and I drove it home, swapped the weber. At first it melted plugs and the disty rattled like a spray can. It drove with a black cloud behind it and got 10mpg due to old lines and a manifold leak. New gaskets and hoses, now, 20, is way better but not good enough. The old owner didn't know what he was doing and rewired over shorts and killed the interior like a slob. The uhaul toe hitch its got was wired loose over the muffler and was attached with coat hanger wire, rusty, coat hanger wire. Oil was everywhere, the rear seatbelts were a sponge and the seats came out as soon as it was home. Its a two seater now with a lumber rack. Runs and starts fine with no shorts but it has been a long haul.