Yo'J

Gosh darn year/orientation specific motors! Its hard to swear and make it sound convincing after having to drive it this week. ObII sounds more available moment to moment, though. Just like an extra free 25 horse with a 2.5.

It still doing the same thing but really intermittently. I have had to do the hg's this weekend on my dd wagon so I havent put much time into it. I was wondering if ground I used from the back of the dash was on or off with the functions of the dash but now I'm not so sure. Being a house carpenter I think of power being on the switch not grounds like in a car. I haven't checked for codes or cleared them or really driven the car. I got to pull the dash again and put in a stereo this week so I'll update. Did your motor start life as an auto? The black wire is what I have grounded but now that I think about it I should make sure that is right.

So, none of you got trees?

Love to! I might be on the wrong coast to make it reasonable though! Have fun!

The old carb plug has a hot.

Its in, a little noisey from #1, but I didn't warm it up.

I'll see what I can find. I have a stripped intake bolt on each anyway. Is there a difference in the head, between the two? Besides the large vs. small valve. ( heck with my luck I'd find two different heads.) Thanks for the help, BTW!

Well, I was just looking at this old 82' ea81 thinking I might just clean it up too. Its got 235k on it, but $150 in head work and gaskets might just keep it on the road for a bit longer and I would love to have a good spare. I don't know if it would be worth any more of a rebuild, it always had low comp in cylinder#1.

I just yanked a solid lifter motor cover off and the pushrods in it have big caps on the ends. In the (supposed) hydro the pushrods have little balls pressed into the tips, so I think I answered my own question on that. They are aluminum though. I thought the firing order would yield the same results, I just don't know about cam differences. I still got a little bit of play in some rocker arms, Just a little bit of movement from the motor side of the pushrod. That will even itself out right? I just re tried adjusting intake#4 and maybe I didn't let it bleed out all the way, this time it set itself into a similar position as the rest, not adjusted all the way out to the end of its adjustment like before.

1/2" shorter! Get a thinner locknut?

I'd love a response on this.....I have aluminum pushrods with steel caps and valvecovers with a "do not adjust" sticker. In one of GDs posts there is a claim that hydros have one piece solid pushrods. Someone also has done a hg job on this motor before and left a few marks on the block. I was hoping I was first. Should I be concerned..? Do I just have fake covers? I was thinking about this adjustment thing all night. Is the same adjustment sequence for solid lifter motors "1324" applicable in the hydro sequence which it calls in the htkysa to use a "stage 1 then a stage 2" order. I just want to doublecheck my work.

Speaking of, htkysa has directions that are completely different from all of yours. His are 1.5 turns counter after you reach freeplay. Page 443. Whats the sequence you all are referring to?

The ea81 stuff is getting really rare here. The last of the goodies you find out here are rebuild-able, but, not really in good 'use-able' shape. I've seen the ea82 stuff get harder to find too. Its all new gen stuff 6-10 to 1 of the older.

So, I've adjusted the valves using the sequence from htkysa and I noticed some of the rockers have different tensions. In adjustment position, some are move able with your fingers some are tight. They all look like they are screwed in to the same or similar depth but intake#4, which is tight but almost out to the end of its travel. Since this set of heads has been to the shop, should I run the car to fill the valves with oil, to then, bleed them out and do a proper adjustment in something like 300miles?

If I remember right, Rgyver the guy from canada with the ej20ed awd brat made some shims and it popped in the brat but he didn't show any pics of it. I'm not sure but I think the ea82 angles are really close to the ea81s. The angles in the pics look about right to the experiment I posted about. I should still finish that some day:rolleyes: My pics didn't show it.

I thought it was strange that the haynes manual calls for it. I don't remember seeing it called for for the ea82 motor and definitely not for the ej.

Got the heads back from the machine shop today. The haynes manual says to apply sealant to the head gaskets. Do I use that recommended stuff on the permatorque gaskets? Dealer if so? I'm almost all clean and ready to assemble. I got one window of good weather this weekend.

:drunk:Mmmm! Big Wood fest... I pulled the motor today, I'll update cuz Im a pushrod noob. At least I got a free workshop table.

Outback, impreza, forester, the redone hatch back wrx. Just what subarus done for 2010, sure 2011 too. Like, aah, yaknow, fixing the newer cars rear end problem driving over 40 in the snow.... Ghostwalking that is. Subaruoutback.org poll

I had originally used a ground on the instrument panel as the ground. I had a few different ground lines set aside for the ecu and other functions, as to not put too many grounds on the same line, I used one of them instead.

The 2010 model year seems to be undiscussed and I want to know how it does in the snow. The 05-06 and up I hear have big problems maintaining safe speed on slushy or icy roads. Did any positive engineering happen for the 2010 year? I heard: 1) the interior is fully recyclable 2) the engine and trans have become interchangeable throughout models 3) toyota is working with subaru ....? what else

I would do it. Thats one of the coolest years. I got mine for a tad less yrs ago and I wouldn't trade it for a thing. Its worth the body for sure. Tow it to the ferry and drive it across, to tow it back home, but check all the above conditionals. My 82' has a blown head now and its not dead yet but shows all the signs to tell me not to go any farther. I would not make 20kilometers more in a trip without destroying the motor. The front brakes are 82 specific as is the wiring in a few select spots, the trim is specific, like bumpers but that third eye.......Mmmm! The water pump has weep holes that seep, for a water pump starter, the wire going to the radiator thermosensor when grounded turns on the fan, and your radiator fluid should look green not like a milkshake or smelling really burnt (whats the smell, its not sulfury but like hydrocarbons....?) or having bubbles in the radiator while running. Those aren't certain signs but they are starters. My motor now leaks coolant from the head on the top of the block and is just now running warm, coolants fine, but will suck oil just sometimes after a good trip. Well anyway, I'd buy it regardless.

Well I checked everything and It seems ok under the dash. I wired the vss ground through the dash previously and I don't know how well the dash grounds so I re-grounded it just for good measure. My knock sensor wasn't too many ft/lbs over tightened and I havent had a chance to clear the codes, maybe tonight.

One step at a time, this is my fuel routing every thing else is stock. view surge tank I'm gonna pull the dash to double check the wiring. I'll post as I go. I've kept good notes so it shouldn't take to long.

I have a knock sensor code, or I did, but I have a brand new knock sensor. I took it to where I bought it from and tested it against another one with a good fluke III meter, tests right on. I haven't gone 100 miles yet in this thing so i'm not sure whats going on. I got brakes and an alignment to do as well, so I havent gone as far as I want to on this swap. Its the symptom that really flusters me.