Yo'J

Hey thanks! That is very helpful actually. I'm trying to figure out my options and of course, the best route to follow.

So, I know I can use rx springs on my brat but I cant seem to find any info on spring rate differences between the brat and say a ea82 wagon. Would an ea82 wagon spring work and fit? Whats the spring rate for a brat vs ea81 wagon? I have monstarus chart but there isnt a 'brat' listing. I got my new gr2s and would like a stiffer front for the ej thats in the brat and maybe another half inch or little more to level it out. I wont be lifting the brat and I dont really want to lower it either. Rx stuff seems tough to find. I've been through all the searchs and the few things I haven't found are these. Worse case scenario...I have new struts. I feel like I should know this too, tempo springs fit on the ea82 but not an ea81? But rx does? Tempos would be too stiff for an ea81? Miata stuff is for the rears only? and usually lowers ride height, Right?

Can you flip the nuts over on the drilled holes so two factory holes center the wheel and the others tighten?

Im at 18 cents a mile in two years and I am including tires in the math and If i did the one job that cost me $1300 it would have cost me 12 cents a mile. 22000 miles of personal use but i started at 210000 so that might include something into the maintenance calculation and the car wouldnt run when i got it.

Did ya loosen anything? Did ya look for anything?

I cant imagine driving an ea81 with out a five speed d/r, and to think you got every part for the swap in the ea82. Well minus torsion tube, knuckles and axles. Unless the ea82 is fit to be fixed and sold to pay for said ea81 conversions, I would be so inclined to mod out the ea81 like said previous poster pointed plainly. Now for the flip, If you can fix the head for super cheap with a jy one, it might be possible to keep a spare dd until you want to do something like the ej swap. I like having two used cars as that is the only really reliable transportation. I for one want to 6lug my wagon but I dont have a spare driver at the moment, so I cant send off my hubs. I got rear discs so I really cant get/find spares. (But boy if I find a set....!)

Needs the copper tube in the pic and the fittings of course.

I have most of the interior roof pieces in tan if you need any. I don't have any of the lower stuff but its all in good shape. PM me if needed and I'll shoot you some pics.

and sell the scrap!

I got the connectors and the blinking is on the dash. I was wondering if it might be normal. I wired everything with no battery. I think I still have a bad iac so I'm gonna put in a different one and bench it at 3v. That might be some of the prob. I'm gonna get oem injector o-rings and see if that helps too. Just to make sure they seal right. I think I'll do the o-rings first, test, then put a new oem gasket on the iac and check for leaks then:banghead:! Its gotta be some stupid thing like operator error... It sounds like the 92 and up is the best harness or at least the easiest to troubleshoot.

Hey Gloyale! That did the trick! It idles sortof like normal. So, stupid me....Instead of doing one thing at a time, I pull in for the long haul and change out my Iac, throttlebody, injectors, ground the park wire. Charge the battery and start the car. It doesn't shoot to 2000rpm, it runs up to 1800 and smooths its way back down to 800:banana:! But then the smoke show.......and it doesn't go away. Well, its been sitting I say, so I drive it. Not far, a couple of blocks. Its blue, sweet and smells of gas. So the idle jumps like I got an air leak.........silly rabbit.... I made my own gasket for the iac as I didn't have one on hand, might be an issue. Injector seating? Ring stuck from sitting? I just did a headgasket job on it without doing 50 miles. There is alot I don't know yet. I just got so far. For some reason the ecm just blinks, constantly, no codes? I'm just venting really. It will be a week till I can look at it for any length of time.

I had to do everything to my car. Trans, carb, motor, brakes, suspention, axles, seats, radiator, disty, steering rack, ball joints and bushings, wheel bearings, exhaust, windshield. You don't want to know the total, (nor do I). But! I've done all my own work except for the rear wheel bearings and the exhaust, a few other things too for timeliness sakes and I'd bet I spent the same on all the rest as I spent on shop time. I got a fully dead, everything worn out, 82 wagon for $400 to start with and have been daily driving it for a few years now. It was a rust free cali car in (body wise)perfect shape, except the interior.(till it got totaled almost two yrs ago, but I'm still driving it, it just goes more places now:grin:) All modifications included, (rear discs, lift, weber, tires and rims, accident parts; new doors, steering rack) 50% shop time, 4yrs of driving, I'd put a good guess out at $4000. With out the accident (hit and run) I'd have a close to show 82 wagon and I would have gotten the paint done for (some of)the money.

There is a gas filter at napa that holds a quart that you can get that will work. Its about $100 with fittings and you'll have to mod it but it works good. http://lh4.ggpht.com/_WpBK68ABahg/TCohKIfpHDI/AAAAAAAAAIg/xuom9bSYLZg/s640/P1010086.JPG http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WpBK68ABahg/TCohEfF2XJI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/0cgq3heU65A/s640/P1010087.JPG

If the tach doesn't bounce when cranking it would be the disty's pick up coil or.....whatever that thing is called....the little black thing with the wires coming out of it that tells the coil to fire. BRAIN FART Someone help me out here.

Room for a full sized shovel, high lift and a gas can too! I love it! What did you use for a hasp?

I drive my lifted soob every day, I guess I don't mind. No one else drives the soob though as the unknown could be a ticket in the waiting. "but Officer the speedo said 60!" (*14%)

Tire size difference is the same across the board 'percentage wise'. I.e. the percent of difference. I think its good to be able to do the math in your head as an exercise. This works. www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

^^ Glad to see you both survived! At least it was just the car that got totaled. That road rash is pretty small compared to to how bad it would be were it 2" deeper! I shaved my forehead to my knee with a small brake at the neck in an bike accident once and I was shocked to see how fast you can heal. (the knee was deep and took a while but I didn't have much left to start with.:-\) I wish you and yours a speedy recovery and good things to come. You'll be fighting less I'll bet!

Injectors dropped off at witchhunter.com for $20 a peice! (dropped $8 each)........

Very interesting...I'll keep it an auto. I'll send out my injectors today. Is it a good idea to add a switch to the e-brake for park? Or will the fuel mapping be fine in the park mode? I got to hand it to you it makes sense! I couldn't read the pin number on one sheet I got and another sheet called the park switch an 'at inhibitor switch'. I tried to use a 92 ecu but it won't give codes and all the problems remained the same. It just blinks constantly. I take it, it would not work with the harness due to differences. Thanks for the reply!

Peice of hide and some spray adhesive:brow: Jk, sort of, what would you do to stop the foam from moving? I'm all for garage sale curtains and all, but, I still want a good job.

So, I've had to put the brat project down for a little while while dealing with life and all its glory. Now I think its time to pick it up again. It runs but not well. Still idles high, I'm betting the iac still. Tps code is there. injector codes and a few more(? not remembering right now). 90' leg auto into 87 brat. I went to the jy and found a manual 90 car and took all the 4wd specific parts off it (I hope i'm not missing anything!). Injectors, maf, Iac, I couldn't get the ecu as it was gone when I got there. (I'm hoping I dont need the cam and cranks like posted in the other thread) I don't have any extras if any are bad. And I know there is a reason a car is in the jy. For the auto, I also have 3 iacs to be sure, extra maf and a few extra injectors, two tps' and a dual throw petal switch. I got a non messed with throttlebody too. (along with a new, unscratched ea81 windshield for 21.50!) Kind of thinking I should do the manual swap to the motor in my brat instead of trying to just fool the computer into thinking the auto is there. My initial concerns are the high idle, the messed with throttlebody and the Iac valve, along with the injectors I'm getting codes for. The original Tb came with screwdriver marks!? I have all the parts for both fixes but I don't know which way I really should go. I'll bet I'm not in those parts for $30 bucks yet but I do want to flow test the injectors before installing them and when I do that I'll be way over that. I know each fix uses different injectors and I don't want to pay for them twice. My GF is going to maine for a week and I get some time to work on it. So, the sooner I can wrap up the injectors and get them to a shop the sooner I can fix the rest if the problems. What are the pros and cons to each of these plans that I cant think of? Am I just missing something in either of these plans? Will my ecu work? How does the trans need to be wired to fool the computer? I feel I'm missing something because everything I have tried so far has had a hangup or glitch. I am walking back with a fresh head though. Here is a like to my old thread before I found the bad hg. Thats out of the way.

It might be cranking off the starter line, try a straight battery hot to see, like using the wire nut as a "switched source". Are you wired off the ignition? I found the red wire is to the starter, which has a lot of draw, but, the large black wire is the second power to the column, doesn't go to the starter. That was a problem I had. It put the power just to low to send a spark signal to the ignitor.

I think you are on the right track. The ej engine is a great motor and produces a lot of power for ea series car. I have an ej22 in my brat and a dr 5spd trans. It is a little useless in 2wd as the tires just spin if you try to takeoff quick. Now thats a heavier body than your hatch. With AWD and a few more ponies it might be faster than a stock sti but with out the suspension to help cover for it, that might just make it a tad uncontrollable. The axle bit is the tough bit, as you are forced to go custom. Australia for example won't allow you to use modified (welded) axles so they have to split the trans to insert different stub ends. I personally like the full undercarriage replacment idea of using the whole drivetrain out of your donor car, engine, trans, crossmembers, rear diff, axles, knuckles, brakes, steering components, fully modified rear end. That is some work though. Like this guys..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96298&page=3

Make sure you have over 10v to the ecu 'while' cranking. If it drops to 9v the ecu might not have enough juice.