GBANGER

Hey guys and girls, i replaced the right rear axle with a P&Pull and kept my original rear cv. After i replaced it i noticed a knocking mainly in reverse (straight line) and now i notice it in forward (again in straight line.) Hard to pin point right or left but got under there today and found that the cv i replaced has a little more movement on the inner side when pushed upward but nothing drastic. I checked the universal joint and found play of around 1mm in the yolk not the bolts. whatcha think, uni joint?? if so is it likely to die suddenly??? strange that it only started after replacing the rear right axle. Could melting the previouis bearing have strained the uni joint?? any help much appreciated as always. I didn't check the castle nut on the new axle and after reading some other threads it could be the cause and would explain why it only occured after the replacement and possibly why there is a bit more play in the cv up down. Cheers for ideas G

cheers for the advice guys, i pulled one out of p&pull but used my cv axle, not sure if the axle sustained any damage when the bearing was fried as the wheel was moving a fair bit. Seems to be good so far. I didn't have the right punch but the long headlight adjusting screw fits perfectly and banged it out no worries. Would have used the wrecker cv but the boot was torn and it was the only model that matched mine. Brake lines were the biggest pain in the rump roast. Hopefully it still rolls along for a while. Cheers G

Hey, had a suspicion my right rear wheel bearing was on the way out, jacked it up tightened the castle nut and wheel nuts and still had plenty of play. Not good and got worse stranded with a growling, smoking, angry hub halfway to tahoe. Now after hours of avoiding tow trucks i need to get it fixed. I want to go to a P&Pull and get an axle rather than replacing the hub and bearings new. I gather i'll need a hammer, punch, pliers and socket 36mm. but without a manual (only have the factory engine section) i'm not sure on the steps or what could go wrong with the plan. Any help much appreciated. Cheers

Thanks that's what I thought. Yeah i just read a bunch more on the covers on and off and will put them back on. The frustrating thing is that the guy i bought it from did the t belts 6 months ago but didn't do the oil P seals and then it started the TOD. I just ordered the seals from autopartswarehouse as NAPA only had either a whole pump or Just the MM seal. Cheers g

do you still have that kit?? I want the three seals you speak of. Cheers G

Hi i am about to embark on my 1st real repair on my $700 1987 GL. I want to replace my oil pump seals and want to know if i can just move the compressor to the side without discharging the AC system. I've read as much as i can on the forums but havn't come across an answer on this. I hope to get rid of my TOD after seafoam, MMO, regular oil changes and Subaru filters have not helped. The tick comes from all over rather than a specific cylinder so i figuire this will do it. Any other help greatly appreciated tips etc, i think i'll be leaving the timing covers off as i only really 4WD in snow and if it's that deep i'm in trouble anyway. Cheers G