bluesuby89

Ok so when I adjust it how do I know it is within specifications? Should I put a level on the rim to see if the camber is set right?

yeah that was my thinking too. I asked they guy at the alignment shop and he said shocks/struts only keep you on the road. But I think that a worn out shock would effect the geometry of the rear end and thus make weird *************** happen. Thanks for the imput

Had alignment checked today. Here are the results: LF 1.1 deg-Camber 1.7 deg-Caster .00 deg- Toe RF 0.6 deg-Camber 1.9 deg-Caster -.04 deg- Toe LR -1.6 deg-Camber -.09 deg- Toe RR -1.6 deg-Camber -.40 deg- Toe And the owner of the place said there is no adjustment for the rear and I would just have to keep replace the tires. Anyone know a place in colorado that might be willing to mess with it? Thanks.

Thanks guys. Took another look at it today and noticed the drivers side bump stop is hitting it's plate on drivers side rear and there is a good 1in to 1 1/2in clearance on passagener side rear. Thinking this might be more evidence that the rear struts might need replacement. Any thoughts? Thanks

I have a 89 gl with 285000 miles. The inside of the rear drivers tire is wears down fast. All other tires have even wear. Don't suspect the bearing no wobble when I jacked it up. The wear isn't totally consistant on the inside there is a spot that is a 12in band that is worn deeper than the rest. But the whole inside is worn considerably more than the outside. I'm thinking it could be the rear strut is bad. From what I understand there isn't any adjustment to the rear alignment. I do carry a fair amount of weight in my trunk at all times. Mainly a couple hundred pounds of tools. Any ideas? Thanks

Yeah mine does the same thing. When I first start it up it will idle at 750 but when i go down the road and stop at a light it will have a high idle.

Well, I went and pulled a IAC valve off another ea 82 in a junkyard on friday. I got it for 12 bucks. So far it seems to have solved the surging issue. But now the car doesn't consistently idle at the same speed. For example, on stop light it will be 1250 and another around 900. But at least it is smooth. Thanks for all the help. Just thought I would post what worked out.

Yeah, I tried cleaning the maf and it did make the car run smoother but didn't fix the problem. The answer might be just to stay in CO. It runs smooth and great there.

Well, I left KC and was back in CO for a few weeks and the surging went away. While I was in CO i cleaned the IAC valve. I then returned to KC last week and fond the car still surging at idle. This makes me think that what ever is broken is effected by altitude. There being less air in Colorado than here in Kansas City. So what are my choices? Could it be the IAC is simply faulty? My gut tells me it is something else. I'm just looking for other things to investigate. Thanks

Bummer. I was hoping that was it. A new one costs 180 bucks. So I'll keep thinking about it and see if I can come up with. I'm not sure what else it might be. Thanks for posting again.

Well I cleaned the MAF sensor today. Was really dirty and had stray hairs on it. There is no doubt the car runs better and has more power. I would recomend cleaning it on any car if it hasn't been done in a while. However, it does still surge. Was your engine cold when you unplugged the IAC ? Because there will be more of a drop in idle when cold (according the manual) thus it would make it drop too far and stall the engine. There is a method in my manual on how to check the IAC and mine passed their test. If you don't have it I could type it up. I too unpluged my MAF sensor with engine running and the idle picked up. I also unplugged the IAC but the idle dropped. I need to try to unplug the both when the idle is surging. One last question. What type of lube to use? I cleaned out my valve and removed the solenoid. I used throttle body cleaner which says it lubes too. Is there something better and safe to use? Thanks and good luck

I have been thinking about my problem today. Is this what yours has been doing? I am going to look into cleaning the maf sensor tomorrow. Just another thought I would try. Good luck

I looked it up in my manual and code 51 is the neutral switch. It says that the cel is tripped when the switch remains in the ON position during operation. Do you have an automatic?

Not yet. I cleaned out the Air Control Valve and it was running better for a couple of days. But now it has returned. When I first start up the car after sitting over night it idles fine. But then when i get to a stop light it surges or has a high idle 1250 rpm. Pretty random on which one occures. I'm going to look at it some more tomorrow. I'm not sure where to go next. I was thinking maybe the spring on the inside of the valve was worn out and wasn't setting in the right spot at idle. I do feel the problem is with the Air Control Valve. I looked up a new one and they are kinda pricey. Any luck with yours?

Yesterday I was able to pull over when it was surging and look at the code and it was 24 (IAC Valve). So I started by cleaning it off and dumping some seafoam down it let it sit then started it up. That didn't fix it. I'm going to take it off this weekend and clean it out real good. If that doesn't work then buy another one. I'll probably have to make a new gasket for it if i screw up the old one. I'll tell you guys what ends up working. So azsubaru was right. Thanks