twilightprotege

was a short. one of the wires for the relay was crimped under the ecu causing a ground-short. all good now. thanks

the lights are still on with the headlight switch completely removed drl - never in australia! lol. that and the lights are always on, even with the ignition off. i'm guessing it is something short related. i hate chasing shorts.

wondering if anyone has any ideas... my low beams in my 87 RX turbo are currently always on. happened a little while ago when i went over a big bump. and no, my car doesnt even have the "virgin switch" so it's not that. here's the facts so far: i have hid bulbs (H4 lows only) run via relay, but they've worked fine for ages. disconnected the headlight switch completely - lights still on. pulled the fuse, lights off. pulled the relay, lights off - but on that one, the relay are definately working fine - you can here them clicking on and off when i connect them and disconnect them - when the relays have been on for a while, they are hot, but i'm sure that's normal so i'm sure i've got a stray short somewhere along the way. has anyone had this happen before? where did you find the solution??? or is there something i'm overlooking?

yeah that's not right. it's a mechanical dizzy (ie vacuum advance) and advancing the timing is not what's required when you increase the compression ratio. stock 3 plug turbo is 20 degrees BTDC. with more compression, the timing needs to be more retarded (like 10 degrees BTDC)

can someone, preferably with experience, let me know what timing i should set my engine to? it's an MPFI (so 9.7:1 comp ratio) with the stock turbo. also have a legacy waic. it's a 3 plug ecu, so vacuum advance. i know the stock engine requires 20 degrees BTDC with the vacuum line plugged, and i assume that's on 89 fuel. i'm running 91 fuel. thoughts? suggestions?

something from oz 87 RX turbo 4" lift all round 27x8.5x14 BFG's high compression EA82T

tops. well then spend money on the suspension and tires. from simple street tires to semi slicks, a friend of mine dropped 2 seconds per lap off a 63 second lap time at a track near me. through practice, that time dropped another 1.5 seconds. that's a huge drop through something pretty simple really - and no increase in power.

dont look for more power, look for a better power to weight ratio - remove dead weight in the car. get better tires and suspension. if you need more power, cams are an easy solution for a turbo engine. you'll probably end up making more power at lower boost. increase the boost back up and it's a double win. and then the final solution - practice.

the slots on the dizzy so it can turn around further? that's a good idea!

i'm sure i'm not moving it by more than 2 teeth - that's what is worrying me.

strange question, but is the cam timing - the gearing at the back of the 2-4 cam that connects to the dizzy - different between NA and turbo cams? different between 3 plug and 4 plug ecu models??? the reason i ask is because i have just done a swap. I used to have a 3 plug turbo engine, and now i have a 4 plug NA engine with the 3 plug turbo and bits on it. obviously the turbo engine requires timing of 20 degrees BTDC with the vacuum line disconnected and the NA engine requires 8 degrees BTDC. if i put the dizzy (3 plug dizzy) in, on 1 cog i cant get any more timing than about 14 degrees BTDC, if i then move the dizzy 1 cog, i cant get any less than about 22 degrees BTDC - basically i cant get in between. i thought maybe the gearing on the cam was different between NA and turbo cams. any thoughts??? obviously i'd prefer to keep the NA cams to get a little more poke...

follow this and enjoy - a very good step by step how to http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497

for sure, if you're 4wd'ing i'd say keep the heavy flywheel as it helps keep the engine spinning. even in a drag racing situation, a heavy flywheel is usually better. but in terms of "losing torque" that's all rubbish

what is it with people and lightened flywheels thinking they'll loose torque? all you are loosing is momentum, which isnt a bad thing. you GAIN torque at the wheels (where it matters) when you lighten the flywheel as less of the engine's power goes into turning the flywheel around and allows it to go to the wheels where you want it. the engine will make no more or less power and thus torque no matter what you do after the engine.

but getting a turbo ecu in oz might be a little easier said than done