renob123

Great post, 'Chux. Jacob

Subruise is referring to me. There was one Brat in Canada or NE Washington that had one before mine did, though. Don't bother with any power beyond an EJ22 with Delta cams until you've worked out suspension, brakes, and drivetrain. Jacob

How did you bypass it? With a bracket? The wastegate could be opening early. Is the arm hooked up ok? It sounds like a vacuum/boost leak, in that case. Also, if you don't know the difference between a coil and a coilover, then you should take it to a shop:) Jacob

Can it get over 3-4,000 rpm at all? If not, it may be valet mode. Jacob

Are you sure they weren't on an EJ20G/EJ20K ECU, though? Jacob

I think it's a Group N ROM for an EJ20G/K. I wish I could find the link for it. Jacob

Do you have any info on the Group N roms? I know I've seen a pretty good site/post for them, but I couldn't find it. Jacob

Where are your IDCs? Jacob

Cool. I have an ECU from the '91-'93-ish era. I've always wondered what was going on inside of it. How does it look when it's not idling? I'd guess it's not lean at higher RPMs/loads. Have you considered anything else to be your problem? Bad MAF/O2/Injectors/Plugs? Don't bother with the top thing. I tried moving it all over the place, and it didn't help. Using the bottom adjustment helped, though. I'd phrase it this way. Right now, your IACV isn't controlling the idle. Mine is. Messing with the thing on the bottom gives the ECU/IACV some ability to adjust the idle. Right now yours could very well be pegged, with the conditions that are way outside of what the ECU is willing to do. I can't remember what my warm idle is. The car is in the shop for some work. Assuming the air travels at the same speed, then yes, I'd guess the difference in time is minimal. I don't know anything about fluid dynamics, but I'm betting the air takes less time to get to the cylinder when it has 2 places to go vs. 1 place to go, at least when both places are summoning the air with vacuum. So sometimes the air gets to the cylinders quickly, and the injectors need to fire soon, and sometimes the air takes a bit longer. That is totally my rudimentary understanding, though. Cobb would probably have a way better explanation. Maybe williaty on NABISCO would as well. Jacob

I may want to get in on that. Mostly out of curiosity, though. I'm happy with my Frankenmotor+cams and OBDI ECU. It took a long time to figure out the idle, though. I guess it has something to do with the overlap reducing dynamic compression which reduces the vacuum. We're dealing with a limited sample size, so I think it's too early to tell whether you're unlucky, or I'm lucky, or if there's some magic step to take that will help everyone. To me, my Frankenmotor just feels like an engine that has cams. If you've been to a "hot rod" show (aka: cars that just sit there show), then you'll know how a car with cams will behave. For the IACV, yes, I'm talking about the bottom one. The top is the electric thing with an electric plug on it. The bottom will have a hex on it so you can use a socket wrench on it. The electric thing didn't help. Turning the hex on the bottom helped. Yes, the air has been metered. However, my understanding is that in a MAF car, under some conditions, the time between when the air is metered and when it is used in combustion matters. If a ton of air gets metered, then the computer expects to dump a ton of fuel some time down the line. Lengthen or shorten that time, and you'll get lean/rich conditions. That's why STIs could use a retune after the addition of most aftermarket intakes. Does that sound reasonable? Jacob

Huh. I hadn't realized you could use RR on a '92 ECU. I have no idea about the tuning part. I ended up getting a pretty good idle on mine by adjusting the IACV. The upper adjustment didn't do much, but the adjustment on the bottom helped a lot. If you're running lean due to unmetered air, then I'd bet on the IACV over air sneaking through the exhaust valves. Jacob

My 2 (well, 3, I guess) suggestions still apply to your case. Hydro or 200SX rear calipers. Jacob

Use this. The two options I know of are to swap to rear calipers that have an e-brake bracket on them (obk25xt is selling some, BTW) or swap to a hydraulic e-brake, which would make you less street legal. Jacob

Yes, you'd have no problem bolting them onto a '96. Round mounts are present somewhere around 2006-ish. I've heard good things about this as your next upgrade: http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_9_10_1496_1499_1506&products_id=186 Jacob

Jacob